Gav240z

hahahahahahahha well I've never had to grease nipples before. Touch , grab, fondle you name it but grease well never. It's a new concept to me but I think I've got the hang of it. Just don't suck on them and I should be right unless I like the taste of grease. :tapemouth

Basically the best way to get good compression from factory parts is to use the F54 engine block and the N42 head it gives you 10:1 compression roughly and you get the bigger valves and ports etc.. There is an engine calculator on this website under the download section if you can't find it I'll email it to you. My car is running early E88 head off a 72 240z and F54 block get's 10:1 compression and has had a mild cam installed with ZX valves etc.. It goes pretty well in tune previous owner claims it had over 200HP but he was running tripple mikuni's I'm planning on setting up mine on the SU's and having the car get onto a dyno at a fuel systems place to get it running just right. At the moment I get detonation on premium depending on if I open it up WOT and I try to avoid driving it in such a way that it will ping. Until i get her adjusted properly carbies wise anyway I believe it's running too lean. Anyway an electronic dizzy does wonders to the way the car drives trust me it's bliss. TexasZ if you don't run premium you will get pre-ignition as TKR mentioned which is basically when the spark is fired before the piston reaches TDC or just after. To get a car to fire on TDC is very hard btw, anyway this causes the car to basically work against itself and loose power not to mention it will destroy the pistons and could even put a hole in them. If anything I've said is incorrect don't hesitate to correct me guys. :classic:

I looked through your gallery looks like your doing a great job on her. I hope to do the same justice to mine one day but at the moment I need to be able to drive mine so it's not practical. When i finish my schooling I'll get a run around I saw your Mirage :classic: I had a corolla for the same purpose but it was costing too much. You won't believe how much better a Z is to drive once she's finished. Keep up the good work and it will all come together one day.

Thanks for pointing that out and thanks for the advice on parts. I feel going authentic OEM is the best solution in most cases. Let's face it they were made for the car and they have the best quality as far as I'm concerned paying a bit extra will not bother me if it means buying something that will last. I think that's half the problems with cars is that replacement parts that are used by some people are just not up to scratch. To me it's like buying a fake Rolex watch and a real one. Sure they look the same hell they do the same thing and even if the original is overpriced it's because of the cheap imitations and the fact that it has a reputation for making good quality products. END RANT . Cheers

Don't hold out selling the rear wing, I shouldn't be buying toys at the moment I need to pay off my car and fix problems besides I'm still not 100% on it just yet so if u can make money on it and it brings you closer to getting your new car sell it man :cheeky:. However I really want the Unisyn and I WILL BUY IT provided she works . I might be interested in some of the other stuff if you get your old burnt out Z back :disappoin . I think mainly the stuff I sold to u in the first place ooops :stupid: . Anyway cheers speak to ya when I see ya online!

I'm not sure about the boot I put some in and I think some came out from the boot but the boot apears to have a small hole in it for grease over flow I have to get a flashlight on it. Hmm if I have split it are new boots available? I consulted the guy who supplied them and he believes that it could be the steering rack bushes causes this "new" noise either way I should replace them with the harder poly sort and he thinks I will notice the difference. At the end of the day If I have screwed them up I will just have to live with it and get new ones. I'm wondering though if it's worth getting those ones at Rare Spares for half the price or if I go with my gut instinct and get the expensive ones??? Experience has always taught me pay good money u get something that has been put through a good quality system.

I think it's another fuse in their check them all as I think the globes arn't connected to the one you changed from memory this happened to me also. Very annoying but you shouldn't have done anything but blown a couple of fuses that's what they are there for afterall. :classic:

I guess the CB radio isn't such a bad tool but you know what I mean all that rubbish and aftermarket junk PO's install in cars and when you get them you find all sorts of wiring issues. Oh the fun of it all . One of the things I liked about my car so much was the fact that it was so original and nearly everything electrical was still working. I hope I'm not the one to butcher the wiring installing stereo equipment :classic: .

Damn straight that's why I don't want to add much to my car or chop up the loom to install stuff. I will install a alarm and probably central locking but even that to me is like doing something I shouldn't. I will install a stereo but I try to stay away from aftermarket rubbish like CB radio's (my old Z had one) and thermofan's unless I go turbo one day. It might interest you to know that A/C was offered as an option on 240z's and came stock on AUS spec 260z's as far as I know anyway. I would install it but Courtesy parts price tag tells a tale as to why I haven't and probably won't for a long time if ever. It might also interest you to know that car reviews back in the 70's did mention that the Z's cockpit was humid on a hot day. The Later ZG's came with A/C and hence that's why there was 2 types of Gnose to prevent overheating. Something to consider if you have an early 240z you will want a 4 core radiator to stop overheating. I think early Z's only had 3 or even 2?? not 100% sure.

Hey Ben interesting to know your one of the few lucky ones to own a 2 door 510 any idea how many are in AUS? :classic: . If I could find one I'd love to own one 1 day but I don't even know if it's possible to find one these days without spending lots of money probably easier to import one but then you have to convert it RHD. Interesting to see your Sister has a GTiR there a bit of a rocket she must be a good driver. I looked into getting one but there more expensive than a R32 GTSt or even some R33 GTST's. Good to know your Z car obsession spans over many Nissan products I know that I have a love for a few. :classic:

Isn't it funny how if you name a topic something like this it's bound to get people interested. I mean everyone wanted to know why I was an idiot and what i did to classify myself as an idiot. I just felt like an idiot because it's obvious if something has a grease nipple it should be assumed that it would need grease I should never assume but that's what happens when you do. Joke taken none the less .

Wasn't there an introduction in the 60's sometime so that steering wheels and columbs were collapsable to help prevent severe head and neck injuring in the event of an accident? If this effected the Z's wouldn't this make wood inappropriate for use seeing as it wouldn't fold up or bend in an accident and therefore they used plastic with that classy wood finish??? Just a thought it doesn't really matter as long as my steering wheel can be refurnished nicely I don't mind. Fake wood or not.:classic:

My obsession runs deep infact I feel it's unhealthy it's become my wife in many ways and even my girlfriend has said I love it more than her. which isn't really true but I do feel bad when I haven't washed it. I hate driving it when it's out of tune, I feel bad after revving her hard like 5,500rpm 6000rpm but I do admit it's so much fun hearing her scream. I can't stand the dents I can only see on certain angles, I polish it by hand because I feel it does a better job but it takes me hours to complete. There are a couple of dents in my chassis from someone running over something that will probably force me to strip the car down at some stage just to make them straight again. I won't go on I think i'm gonna embarrass myself here. . Is it good to know your not the only one?

I'm really unsure about this I've heard from several people it's fake wood but yet too see any proof. have a look in the member gallery of Kats he has a very nicely polished steering wheel done by a Sushi bar person he said. The only steering wheel option I know of or think was an option can be seen in my gallery on the ZG it's the stock wheel with a padded outside area I like it but am unsure of all the details on them I think they were Japan market only wheels. :classic:

I liked that one Gawain was a smart dude. :classic:

Well thanks PeterC I do feel better, I greased them up and I can't hear it but I just drove today to Uni and the carpark is usually the giveaway and I couldn't hear anything. You could be very well right BambiKiller I have some slack in the steering from worn out steering bushings. I'll be replacing these soon. Good to know it's not the ball joints making noise and I'll still apply grease to them, I guess they can just wear your tyres when there shot. Well I'll keep you posted on what happens anyway. Thanks again.:classic:

Yeah I can only learn from this I guess. Problem is I assumed as most things come pre lubed these days. I hope the noise is slight wear only, I feel so daft but I'd prefer it to be the ball joints and not the tie rods they were so expensive grrr and I had to get an alignment done afterwards more $$$. I should stop complaining I guess and just face facts its just so fun to complain . One thing though the tie rod seemed to get full of grease after just 2 pumps so either it doesn't take much or it's full anyway. I guess I'll have to find out.

Long story short I installed new lower ball joints about 6 months ago and about a 2 weeks ago I installed new tie rod ends. Now both have grease nipples but when I installed them I didn't grease them up as I assumed stupidly that they were pre greased. Driving home last night I heard that same noise I was hearing when I had to replace my tie rods. It's a creaky noise when u move the steering wheel especially when the car is stopped or moving slow. Tonight I greased them up with the grease gun but my grease gun won't fit under the ball joints so I have to get another. I can still hear that noise I would have only driven 80miles and most of it would have been straight driving along a highway. I'm wondering if anyone here believes I've done irreversable damage to my tie rods? I know it's a difficult question but I paid $200 for both sides and I don't really wanna get another set because I was so dumb. Oh well in the end I guess we live and learn and I'll be getting a grease gun after this.

They are nice wheels any simmons are great looking :classic: . Don't feel too stupid, I installed new tie rod ends and ball joints and didn't grease them with a grease gun because I thought they would be pre-greased. I drove home last night to hear that same sound as when my old tie rods needed replacement, was not happy that squeeky awful noise I might have to do them again unfortunately. Which means buy a good grease gun and don't be an idiot in future Gavin. Maybe I should write a post about that and see if I stuffed them.

I did these on my 260z a while ago it was a very difficult process alot of hammering and banging I actually damaged the shaft at the end hitting it the wrong way and in the end I didn't manage to replace all of them. It' just not worth the time you spend wacking at it best getting someone who has the right tools to press them out. I believe there's a tool for taking them out also if I was gonna do this again I'd do it that way as oppose to wrestling with it. PS: Putting them in is easy. Just my 2cents.