Victor Laury

Thanks Carl, Enrique. This fellow I speak of has built so many 70s and 71s, I quess 72's are still a mystery to him. I'm installing my new seat covers today and restoring a 70 (solid spoke) steering wheel for a friend. Needless to say, My living room is now a Z workshop! The single life has some perks.

I was told yesterday that my seats were reversed! That the recliner lever should be on the inside, next to the consol. Could this be true? Have I been driving from the passenger seat all this time? Funny, every Z I've seen so far, it's on the outside, by the door. Maybe this fellow is pulling my leg? I wont say who "He" is, but you would all agree that he should know what he is talking about.

If they say "Made in Japan" anywhere on them, They're Mikunis. If not you need to look for Mercedes Benz Restoration vendors. the 60's and 70 SL's used Euro Solex PHH's. It may work in your favor. Parts for these may be more plentiful than our Mikunis.

Monterey Park ?!? Hi neighboor! Let me guess ........ pump diaphrams?

Are these Solex-Mikuni or Solex If Solex (European) check with the VW houses. Mikuni USA says the have nothing for Solex-Mikuni carbies. I don't know if that is true or not. seems when ever i need something, 1 or 2 of my roadster vendors "majically" comes up with it. At a price, that is. It is true that nothing seems to be interchanable. I have a set of early 44 Solex Mikunis (2 screw covers). Late model 44 (single screw cover) and a set of 40 on the way! It's enough to give you the PHH blues!

I did. Three pages of Datsun references! Proof positive on needing a life. How sad is that?

I rolled up on a perfect 81 (?). The 50+ driver all smiles and thumbs up. You could tell, he loved his Z and the affair was not over. That ZX looked good. The owners love shows through. well maintained, loved cars are worthy of respect. There are so many tired-old-ladies running around Los Angeles. When I see a Z or a ZX or even a (dare I say) Z31 (!) that's owned by a Z car enthusiast, It's Zhappening!

Mike, you beat mine. I owned HLS30 48255. It was a 72 to the core with the exception of fixed seat belts (no retractors). Ours were switch-over models for sure.

Jeff, I'll bet my dollars to your doughnuts that the both the Z and the SX will cost the Same to insure. If you try upgrading for AutoX, High performance parts cost $$$.$$ for both cars. Yea, the safety thing weighs in favor of the SX. 2 seats are a drag for your buddies, but can be an advantage in getting the girl alone!:classic: I'm backing the Z. Jeff, The fact is if you buy the Z, Care for the Z, Spend on the Z, you'll have a pretty unique car. You'll spend on the SX too and have the same car as 2,000,000 others!

Don't know about Furuhashi or whatever, but that is the Hitachi Logo on the cover.

Ok, I know I'll be changing my clutch soon. So I took my flywheel that was off my L28 motor from my old Z to Top-End Performance for lightening and surfacing. Bought a "HD Street Performance" clutch disk and cover from them (some Japanese brand). I feel it's wise to replace the flywheel bolts instead of reusing the old ones. I asked the guys at TEP, and they said "get them at Nissan" "all L motors use the same bolts. My reseach found the contary though, -------------- all 240 up to 11/72 use 12315-21001 bolt all from 12/72 including 260/280 use 12315-A8600 or 12315-U0600 and both of these supersede to 12315-42L11 -------------- Now, I'm confused, I have a flywheel from a L28, that was fitted to a 72 4 speed. I'm installing it to an L24 also with a 4 speed. Which dam bolts do I need?

Revolution Competion Wheels have a fitment in 14, 15 and possibly 16''. And, Since they are GB, you wont have to pay for shippment across the pond like I did.

Carl Beck wrote a Buyer's Guide, http://www.zhome.com/Buying/1stGenWhatToWatch.html

I thought that all the drills were left twisted south of the Equator. or was that the toilet bowls? I can't remember! I do know they go around the round-a-bouts backwards in Australia. Crazy man!

Absolutley not a joke. Lowes may not have them, but my "Small Town" style "Mom & Pop" hardware store keeps them in stock for people like me.

I thought it was Arboreus Polyureathanus, but it's been 25 years since my last plant taxonomy class. I cleaned mine up well. I sanded the rim lightly, no stain, the many coats of clear clear laquer, hitting it with 400 grit between coats. The center got a chemical strip, a 220 then 400 sanding, Spray can primer, 400 grit sanding then spray can semi gloss black. It looked flash! but it might not hold up as well as the plastic clear coats. I allready have a chip in the laquer finish. I did the shift knob in laquer too. Now That looks awesome! Nissan went the extra mile when they chose flame maple for the knob!

If I learned well from Master Alan, This particular clock does not need the separate "control box" or aka "oscilator" that the early model rallye clock (2 knob clock?) requires. This clock is know as the calender clock and is from later model cars (77~78?). I'd really like to find out the output of this oscilator device. I'm sure it could be duplicated. It would be nice to install my early rallye clock. It's not doing me much good sitting on the coffee table. It's only a good conversational piece when Datsun nuts come over. Other than that, It's a good dust magnet.

Pull the Valve cover and rotate the engine to TDC compression stroke one #1 cylinder. Both cam lobes should be pointing up. Remove the dizzy cap and note the location of the rotor. it should be almost (2 ~ 16 degrees) to the #1 spark wire post on the dizzy cap. If this checks out your ignition timing isn't the problem.

Mike, is it possible to remove the alternator mount from the engine block? If you can get to those bolts, you can have the whole thing out where you can extract the broken bolt on your bench.

This sounds exactly like my expirence with the crudded up gas tank. the rust flakes would gather around the gas pickup tube and the car would lose power, then die. The filter would catch some particles, but not enought to clog the filter. After resting the car for a couple minutes, the gas would back flow, pushing the flakes away from the pickup and I could drive off for anouther 5 minutes. What a freaking hassle. I resolved my problem by pulling the tank and taking it to the Gas Tank Renu shop.