Victor Laury

Vacuum leaks? Hows your throttle shafts? I can't beleive the air cleaner theory, is it the stock air cleaner for the carbs? (round top carbs and 70~72 cleaner or flattops with the triangle port cleaner) . Nissan did a lot of engineering on those cleaner air horns and they are about as good as they come.

I'm sure Alan would dissapprove of this program as it's very U.S. Market-centric.

You do not turn the 14 mm first. You turn the 17 mm lock first while holding the 14mm. After the 17mm lock nut is loosened, the 14mm turns without resistance. If the 14 is rounded off, it's because sombody forgot this during a valve adjustment. Think of it as a 14 stud that srews into the head. On it is the 17mm lock nut. the lock tightens down on the head surface to lock the stud in place.

Maybe your cam is advanced 1 tooth?

Steve, I've been following your strut epic with dismay. How can this be? I bought my Tokico blues about 2 years ago and I love them. Does your trials mean I'll never be able to replace them? I know that you have communicated your woes to Tokico and they really haven't solved your problem. To me, those short struts are unacceptable. I think you might try Tokico 1 more time, and let them know this one fact, THE WHOLE WORLD IS WATCHING. Speaking for me, If they mess with with Steve, they've lost my buisness. In this connected community, Vendors take notice, customer service IS good buisness, a the lack of it, is certain ruin.

There are several mechanical advance curves. which one your car has is dependant on several factors. Where was it's market? Which Transmission? What year? Was the dizzy swapped at some time? The only way to be sure is to lift the breaker plate and look at the stamping on the advance cam (flat rectangular plate with 2 slots the advance weight ride in) The number stamped on that plate is the distributor advance. Multiply that by 2 and you get the crank advance. So if you have a 7.5 distributor, you have 15 degrees crank. Set the your initial timing at 18 and you've got 33 total advance (pretty safe at normal compression and pump gas) If you have an 11 dizzy, you have 22 degrees at the crank, set that at 18 and it I'll rattle itself to death, quickly. If you can't run more the 7 degrees initial, you probably have a 13.5 dizzy (U.S. Smog equipped). Which one is best? That can be argued. My preference is the lower mechanical advance numbers of the "Euro Distributor" as marketed to the U.S. When I had my EI dizzy built, I had Gary set it up with a 7.5 advance. Sot I time 17 for regular and just a hair under 20 for premium. If my compression was enhanced, I'd have to lower those, or run race gas and run a high overlap cam. Nissan, in it's smogging wisdom, equipped the U.S. Market Roadster ( a sports car!) with the worst possible dizzy, a 17.5! You had to time that at TDC! Absolutely the lousiest idle and low-end performance ever. That's ok, cause we all fixed that with the pre smog 7.5 dizzy!

Isn't that the FJ24 (stroked FJ20) powered S110 sylvia/gazelle circa 1983-84? Wish they had a photo. Not that I'm shipping cars from the mid east. No engine? where would you find an FJ24 to restore the dam thing?

Color info is not in the VIN# Here's the test- Is the engine compartment white? Is the interior vinyl red? Is the interior (under the carpets, in the spare tire well) white? yes's mean your car was 904 white when it roll of the line in Yokohama. You may find the remmants of the paint code sticker on the passenger side of the radiator support. Replacing the shifter bushings will be a great "getting to know you" job for you and dad. Use the search box on this site with "Shifter bushings" and you'll get more info than i could type in a week. Chasing clunks will be your goal. U joints, trans mount, diff mount are all canidates. Join a local club, get to know your nearest Z fanatic. We're not like porsche collectors, We help each other out.

I've run Red Line MTL in 6(?) Nissan gear boxes without complaint.

Originally, I cut the the air injector tubes, which led into the exhaust manifold, with a pair of diagonal cutters (dikes). Then I folded and crimped the tubes. This worked, but I still wasn't happy aestetically, with the rusty exhaust manifold. Installing a Jet-Hot coated MSA 6-1 header finished the job, removing all traces that the AIR system ever existed. Got to remember to take a photo from the other side!

Are you missing the nylon bushes in the throtte cam which rides on the post mounted on the firewall? You might find replacements at a Hardware store.

Wow! Shouldn't be hard to spot! Worst case, it's in a container heading out for sale outside the U.S. I'll keep an eye out in L.A.!

Whoa! Perfect? Wow! closer inspection would prove otherwise! But THANKS!!!:classic:

Yep that's the Zap. Zhome.com - ZZZapZ write-up

A nationwide search on collectorcartraderonline.com returned 23 1977 280z ranging from $1,000~13,000. Straight average was $5,531, but the majority was in the $3,500~$4,000 area. Of interest was a PERFECT (!) "Zap" package in Oregon! for $13,500. I would think that was a good price for this rare bird. There was one for $22,000 that I left out of the calculation. "Highly Modified" I can imagine

Those rear pieces look exactly like the ones in my 72. And I also assume the rear pieces on the earlier cars would be different due to the tool doors

Well, something is wrong. How's that for good info? Before you fiddle with anything, have a friend step on the throttle pedal, whilst you confirm that the throttle is opening completely. I know that seems simplistic. But, It happens. More often on cable pull throttles like the roadster. Someone will say their car is no good after 4800 or so, and it turns out their throttle is only opening 3/4 on the stop. Since youv'e just swapped the whole system out, perhaps the linkages are not in adjustment for the new set. SU on a stock engine should sing to 6,200

So far, it's how you expected it, pretty broad with a median of the middle'n. I fit dead center on that bell curve. Seems strange to me, with the life I've lead, to end up with a job, house and vintage car hobby. Who'd thought the 70's doper kid would made good? I'm rediscovering my Roadster this week. WOW! what a f'n ride!

Not a roadster, my guess would b e aftermarket. The roadster has the same spindle/spline spec as the Z. I just had a 70 SPL 1600 come over for a SU tune-up with a 75 280 wheel. it fit mechanically, but stuck out like a sore thumb aesthetically. Too much dish. I could bearly get into the drivers seat.

the moon smiles on the river, turning water into molten Silver, So much for #13

Check again with our vendors. Within the last year, I've been able to purchase from Nissan a new sender for my Z, my 70 roadster and my 1965 320 pickup! So I find it hard to believe that there should be any trouble for you.

Tire diameter isn't a concern in autoX. You don't spare any time filling the wheel well. Smaller diameter lowers your ratio. combined with lower weight it's a win win. Who cares if you speedo reads correctly? Your too buisy and it's bouncing around too much to read it anyway. True, there's some fantastically light 15'' race rims out there. In our offset, you'd be hard pressed to find them. My 15X6 revolutions on the roadster are boat anchors when compared to my 14X6 AR Vectors at 11lbs a piece. Some of the Miata crowd change at the track to a set of feather weight SSR 5 spokes that almost float out of your hands. Find those in 0 offset and you scored!

I don't see a turbo on that LD24 anywhere!

Smaller is better! Contrary to modern style, If you could fit 13'' wheels on your Z, That would be the best size for AutoX! 14X7 of the Lightest possible wheels running 195/55/14 DOT race rubber - about the same diameter as 185/60/14's but wider. and your ready to throw down

he siad, eevn if the wrod is speleld worng, you can stlil raed it if it bigens and edns wtih the crorcet ltters. Bcaesue yuor barin sees the cmolptee wrod as the fisrt lteter, lsat lteter and lngeht of the wrod and deson't raelly btoher wtih the mdidle.