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I'll have to compare my car to my friends '72 240 auto parts car. I've got a busy weekend planned so it may not be until next week but I am sure I will be able to answer most all the questions. Of course if someone else beats me to it, all the better! Have a good one!

I have collector car insurance policy with CNA that I got through Hagerty Insurance (www.hagerty.com). I pay $75 a year to insure my Z for $6K. I don't have all the other specifics but I do remember that I have resonably high limits for liability, they require coverage to be as high as other policies, but I don't have collision or comp. Also, I thought it was an "Agreed Value" but I haven't looked in a while. Hmm... maybe I better confirm that.

I have had problems with water temp sending units in the past and even a new one can be faulty. But before you go spending money lets get some more info, what are you working on 240-260-280? I have a few around and can take some digital pictures on Friday or may be able to respond with some ideas on the extra wires before then.

Hey 2manyZs, thanks for the response! Yeah, you are right the control arms are the same on both sides, one is just upside down. I am almost sure they can be interchanged between 280 and 240 but I would feel more comfortable if someone who has done it could tell me. I also feel pretty certain that the hubs can be interchanged since the rotors are the same, the bearings are the same, and the wheel bolt pattern is the same. But again would be nice to hear from someone who has done it. Maybe, I'll give one of my local Z wrechers a call and see what they say! Anyone else?

Well, since you are in Hawaii you might not have a lot of selection when it comes to finding a Z car. If you are looking for a collectable car than the early '70 or '71 series I model cars are the ticket. These are the cars that have the 240 script on the rear quarter panel and have the vents on the hatch. If you are looking for a car to have fun and drive than any first generation Z between '70 240Z - 260Z - '78 280Z will do. The 240s are lighter and have less emissions controls but are carborated. The 280Z is about 400lbs heavier, mostly the bumpers, and has more emission controls (robs HP) but is fuel injected. The 260Z is in the middle, heavier than the 240 but still carborated. Watch out for '73 240Z or any 260Z with "flat top" carbs, they can be a nightmare. Although, many have been converted to different carbs to resolve part of this mess. Although most have been converted to different carbs that help resolve this mess. Also, rust is your enemy! When you find a specific car you may be interested in let us know and we can give you more of the good and the bad! Have fun!

I thought it was just me because I rebuilt my PC from scratch this weekend! Glad I read this post! Mike what is up!?

I used to get flame out the tail pipe, just before I had to have the engine rebuilt because of trashed valve seats resulting in valve to piston contact, I think I should have used more lead substitute. That was 1989 when I had Rebello build me an L28 engine. I have always been told it is still a "backfire" even if it occurs in the carbs. I think it is because of the point in time it occurs in the cycle of the engine!? The "shut of the engine" backfire is a rich condition and occurs in the exhaust. It usualy results in a muffler exploding! Have fun!

They are typical drums brakes. I would recommend the hardware kit ($10 extra and includes both sides) that includes new springs and clips. The hardware kits are available pretty much anywhere you buy brake shoes, including MSA. I recently changed the brakes on my Civic and spent 1 hour doing the rotors and pads up front but probably 3 hours on the drums. Although, the Z brakes are larger which makes it a little easier to get your hands in there. Have fun!

Howdy, Okay, I know a front hub cannot be swapped with a rear control arm. But can a 280Z hub be swapped onto a 240Z axle and similarly a 280Z rear control arm be swapped onto a 240Z rear suspension? MSA has the same part number for the front wheel bearings '70 - '78 so no difference there. But they list separate part numbers for the hubs and control arms so I am wondering what's the difference. With the control arms I could see it being the hole for a swaybar. I checked the fiche but it is hard to tell if the later numbers are compatible and replace the earlier number or if they are physically different and not interchangable. I've got a few of them on parts cars but I haven't got them appart and haven't had a chance to compare myself. Also, I don't trust my eyes to see the difference. Has anybody been done it successfully or tried it and found it not possible? Thanks folks!

I would suspect most the people here would consider a 240Z purchase worth while! What is the story on the car you are looking at? Or are you looking for someone in Chicago who can help you physically look at it?

I just remembered a friend who had a similar problem with a stock VW bug back in high school days. He removed the stock pipes and put on a dual "quiet pak" muffler setup with two outlets that was very free flowing. He would backfire quite a bit. So he changed to a single "quite pak" muffler with a single outlet and that seemed to solve the problem. By the way the dual setup worked fine on his friends but that was modified substantially (did 13 ETs on the 1/4 mile). I wonder if it isn't just too free flowing for your stock motor? Anyone else ever seen this happen on a Z? I think you may be on the right track. Let us all know how it turns out!

All good advise but I have one more thing to add to 2manyZs and Daniels suggestions. You say this started just after installing a new exhaust system!? The worse kinds of backfires are through the carbs, lean condition. Sounds like you may have an exhaust leak that is allowing some air to get in the system and help unburnt fuel to burn. You might want to start at the exhaust manifold and work your way back making sure everything is tight and that there is no leaks or cracks. I would look closely at any unions or welds but there could be a crack along the pipe someplace too. If you have a leak over time you would see black carbon build up in that area.

FYI... I don't remember what year Z car Alfadog has but in the US only pre '72 model year cars required cutting the console or trans tunnel to fit the 5-speed. The shifter possition of the '72+ model 4-speed is the same as the 5-speed. Have fun!

Okay one correction to make on my last post! In regards to the rear bumper, on the 240 you can reach the bolts inside the quarter panel from underneath the car. When you adapt to a late 260 or early 280Z (still don't have a '77 or '78 to check!) you will need go in through the interior to get to that same bolt. That means removing the interior quarters like I described above because although the hole is in the same location the late 260 and early 280Z has deep pockets on the inside quarter panels. Also, it looks like you could not use the 240 rubber spacer, that goes between the quarter panel mount on the bumper and the body. On mine a thin piece of rubber was cut into a square. That's all folks!

Howdy 2manyZ, Actually the rear quarter panel bumper mounts are different on the 240 than the late 260 through '76 280Z (haven't checked a '77 or '78). I went out and checked the cars before answering this time. I'm learning! The 240 bumpers wrap further forward on the quarter panels. Your '75 280 will have a bolt that is installed from the outside through the rubber side bumper and into a nut that is welded to the quarter below the side marker light. The 240 is held by a bolt that goes through a hole, you have to take off the interior quarter panels and hold a wrench on one end from inside the car, about 3 inches in front of the rear marker light on the rear quarter. Good tips on the large bumper struts! Have a good one!

Lesson 1 - No 5-speeds in US Zs until 1977 model year 280Z. It has been changed. It is a very easy swap! Lesson 2- What 5-speed is it? If 5th gear only drops engine revs about 400 revs on the freeway, around 70MPH, then it is probably a 280Z 5-speed. If it drops close to 1000 revs than it is probably a 280ZX 5-speed. Nothing wrong with having a 5-speed in a 240Z. End of class! Now go take your Z for a drive! Have fun!

Oh, almost forgot! You should buy the CD too! May not be big help for this project but always and handle tool for reference! Have fun!

My late 260 (12/74) originally came with 280Z style bumpers and was converted to '73 240 bumpers by the previous owner. They looked very good on the car! The front bumper looked like it was an easy swap, although I believe the '73 bumper requires early, pre-'72 mounting brackets. If you have that braket it looks like it will bolt into existing holes. The back is a little more difficult. The big issue is the shocks from the big bumpers. From what I hear you need to drop the gas tank to get them out. Once they are out you have a large hole that is visible from behind. The holes probably extend 1" below the 240 bumpers. I don't know about a '77 - '78 280Z but the 260 and up to '76 280Z still have and use the 240 style mounting location. In other words the 240 bumpers mount up to the rear valance just like on a 240. The difference is on the quarter panels where you will have to drill a small hole for the bolt for the side bumper mounts. Hope that makes sense! Corrections, comments, questions are welcome!

Congratulations! Enjoy the ride! I drove my Z to work today!

Since my Z only has the stock AM radio I would have to say L6 by Nissan. But if I had tunes it would be "kashmir" by Led Zepplin. Best played while flying down a long stretch of road at night! Otherwise any guitar based rock from Lynard Skynard to Dream Theater Yes, I had long hair and played guitar in a band for many years in my younger days. I'll tell you what, nothing worse then swapping out a Z diff and getting your hair stuck in a creaper wheel and then ending up with gear oil in your hair. I just had a flashback!!! Have fun!

SORRY FOLKS, MY '73 240Z (BUILT 10/72) DOES NOT HAVE THE MOUNTS FOR A REAR SWAYBAR!!! DOOH! I hate it when that happens! I just went out to measure it and there wasn't one and I don't even see the mounts for one! Looks like I have been under too many different Z's these days. I did check my 260 & 280 and although I cannot say for sure that they are the original bars they are the same diameter, approx. 21MM. Regarding whether to run a rear sway bar or not on a Z, I really don't have any info on that. The only Z that I have really driven hard enough to cause understeer or oversteer is my '71 and it doesn't have a rear bar. For the $$$ to get the custom rear swaybar setup I would rather get the strut tower bars to stiffen up my chassis. One of the potential problems with a rear bar is that if your suspension and chassis is too soft and you corner hard it could actually pick up a tire. If you don't have a limited slip diff. you will be sitting until that tire comes back down. Of course if I have the mounts for one I would probably try it just to see what happens. Have fun!

Sorry to hear about your crunched Z! This may in fact be a job for the pros, but I would check one more thing before spending any $$$. The four bolts, two on each side, that mount the hood to the hood hinges have a little room for adjustment. If you loosen them a little, so the hood can move freely, you should be able to press down gently on the hood and see if it is hitting something or if it will in fact go down all the way. If it looks like it could go down all the way than you can adjust it. You can either lift the hood and adjust it by trial which can take some time to get it right. Another way is to have someone gently hold the hood down while you tighten the bolts, works best if you don't have an airdam and you lie under the front of the car. If that doesn't work than take it to your local body shop. Hope it helps! Have fun!

Actually it was a little before the 260. Starting with the '72 model year the Z's had a rear swaybar, mine missed it by 2 months! I believe the stock diameter is the same even though the car got heavier over the years. I've got three of them from various cars (240, 260, 280) and I'll double check the diameters. The sway bar end links attach through holes in the rear control arms and you found the front mount points at the unibody frame rails. For the best performance many go to a totally different design that attaches to the rear suspension members instead of the unibody. This is also best option for early pre'72 240Z folks. For $20+ UPS ground shipping, probably less than $10, I could send you a good used complete stock setup with-bolts, nuts, hardware, bar and the best used bushings that I have. It will all bolt up to what you have. Send me a private message or email with your ZIP if interested. Also, probably best to replace bushings with poly bushings but this will get you started. Unless you upgrade your suspension and the front bar, like for series autocross or racing, you probably won't want much thicker than stock in the back. Adding a heavy rear sway bar gives you more rear wheel spin or oversteer. Hope it helps! Have fun!

Here is the source I have in my notes for the original simi-gloss metalic gray for the grill or rear finisher. Classic Datsun Motorsports 345 Olive Ave. Vista, CA 92083 E-Mail: Les@classicdatsun.com Web Site: http://www.classicdatsun.com/ Phone: 1-760-940-6365 NOTE: Just wanted to clarify that I would NOT blast or use solvents with the stainless trim still on, as EScanlon mentioned it is very thin and bendable!

If it hasn't been changed, the panels should be held on with the large plastic, rivet type fasteners. I have seen many replaced with screws or pop-rivets. You can remove the plastic rivets by pokeing the pin through the middle with a punch, or a nail works too. Most likely a few may not survive the process, remember they are probably 30+ years old. If they do come out okay be sure to find the little plastic pins so you can reuse them during assembly. First remove the license plate. Then remove the three finishers and the license plate light bar. Next, gently removed the stainless trim around the light holes. Then I just sanded the painted parts a bit to scuff up the old paint. I painted mine semi gloss black but that is not the "correct" original color. Then was able to reinstall the trim and put it all back on the car. I'll try sand blasting next time, since I have a spare. It should hold up fine to solvents or blasting. Mine could have been done better but it looks good from 20 feet away. I have done it twice in the last 14 years I have had the car. I know that there are sources for the original dark grey color, check www.zhome.com I am sure it is there somewhere. The dark grey should be used on the front grill as well. I'll try to find it and report back. Have fun!