ChrisA

ROFL Thanks Stephen, I needed that! I had a LUV once. The damned speedo had a warning buzzer that would go off at 55.1 MPH. You talk about annoying. Many's the time I wished I'd reached under the dash and ripped it out. Ah, the memories! FWIW, Chris A.

Hi Scott, I purchased a Equus #3100 unit from a pawn shop. They also go by the name Innova. It was dirt cheap and it works great. Used it on my Xterra when the wife left the gas cap loose. The dealer wanted ridiculous bucks to hook up their diagnostic machine. It also helped me determine a evaporative emissions problem that was a quick cheap fix thankfully. I've seen mine go for around 130 to 175 at various places. Chris A.

Thanks Victor, Beautiful machinery. This one looks like it could be a lot of fun. For me anyway. Chris A.

After reading this thread this morning, I thought I'd share an eBay find of mine from a few years ago. Its a Cox Super Scale Datsun 260Z Item #3505 slot car. Box is dated 1974 which is appropriate I guess for the USA. Its never been run but since its a Z I got it for the display shelf. Thanks for sharing your friends setup, very nice. I love retro stuff. Chris A.

Sorry, a little off topic regarding "Z" letter. The language fascinates me. I'm attempting to learn some basics as far as reading goes. But pronunciation is a different matter all together. Learning that the Japanese alphabet has 99 sounds formed with 5 vowels (a, e, i, o, u) and 14 consonants (k, s, t, h, m, y, r, w, g, z, d, b, p, and n) but there are two kinds of alphabets, Hiragana and Katakana. I get confused and frustrated rather quick. And the Kanji...well that's another story. Good discussion going here though. I need to find the reference book where I read about names and such. Chris A.

From what I've read and been told. Nissan picked Z because its the end and is the ultimate, nothing comes after it. I've probably butchered that some but its been awhile since I re-read my Z history. Chris A.

I thought I'd finish this thread with some final thoughts. Carl's Mom called me today. Carl's sister printed out all our responses on this thread and those on the link Enrique posted. She asked me to thank all of you for the "very kind words" we left about Carl. She said it made her feel a lot better and "warmed her heart". He was buried at St. Augustine cemetary in Pleasanton along with the ashes of his beloved cat "Momma". It was a family only service but I assured her that Carl's friends were there in spirit. I told her that I'd promised Carl I would get out to Cali and visit him someday. She told me to come visit her too! I told her it was a date. From myself, I'd like to thank all of you also for the kind words. Chris A. P.S. Will, you wondered what they might find in his garage? Sometime I'll PM you and tell you.

Well, the tweaked N36's are on the car. I've driven it on the street three times. Seat of the pants (which means nothing to some) reaction is that there is no difference till 2500 to 3000 RPM. Then the motor seems to come to life. There is no dyno that I can find in Lincoln. I have to go to Omaha. And right now, I'm still getting the bone stock set of N36's ready so I can do a stock versus tweaked comparison. It'll happen though, eventually. Car is not going anywhere right now as I'm replacing the rear struts. Anyway, if your motor is bone stock, this modification will do nothing for you. Mine is not stock. Chris A.

Welcome Mel, Post some pics of your Z when you can. I'm partial to silver Z's. Have fun searching the site, lots of good info here. Chris A.

Thanks Mark. Now we'll see who picks it apart. Chris A.

Yes common swap on the small valve heads. Can't answer about the flow or velocity suffering though. Most folks who go the big valve swap also port and polish the intake manifolds as well. So that really changes the variables. Chris A.

Good question, I doubt it. It would screw up the location of the lobes on the cam I'd think. I dont have any heads off except a E31 right now or I'd check. I'd think the distance between the valve's OD is probably farther apart on a E31 than say a N47. Chris A.

Ummm....you said you bought a N66 head. But you posted pics of N33 and E31. Where's the pics of the N66? This is the best I can do for you.... BORE AND STROKE COMBINATIONS FOR L ENGINES HEAD # VOL. C.C. INT VALV. EX VALV. EXH. PORT PROD. DATE E31 42.4 42 33 square ex 10/69-7/71 E88 44.7 42 33 square ex 9/71-7/72 N33 47.8 42 33 square ex 8/72-7/73 N33/P50 47.8 42 35 square ex 8/73-8/74 N42 44.6 44 35 square ex 9/74-7/77 N47 44.6 44 35 round ex 8/77-3/78 P81 44.6 44 35 round ex 2/79-6/80 P79 53.6 44 35 round ex 7/80- P90 53.6 44 35 square ex 12/80-7/82Turbo P99 53.6 44 35 square ex 8/82-Turbo Hyd Again, I find no N66 anywhere. And I've looked. Chris A.

I was waiting for that response. I've never heard of such a head. How about some pictures of said beasty. Chris A.

Hi Scott, $28/can at my shop. The scary part is R134A is going up as well. $14 for a one pound can. Not that long ago it was $3.00 a can. Like Stephen, we use a 30 pounder and a reclaimer machine. Saves any charge left in the system for re-use. Tips for recharging? If you're sure there are no leaks in the system, you can get a can tap from the Snap-On, Matco, or other tool truck that happens to be in your area. If you have access to a black light or leak detector kit, you can put some dye in the system and check it out. I've enclosed a picture of the side-tap I use when I need to use the one pound can. Do you have any service manuals? They have good A/C info in them. Much luck, Chris A.

Hi Kent, I'm not in Iowa but pretty close. If you PM me the contact info, I'd be glad to call them for you and see if I can help. Chris A.

Hi Don, Well having done this myself, the extra hole shouldn't cause a problem unless its drilled through into the head. I don't think they are though. Just leave it empty. Using the gasket for a carbed engine is fine also. I put a the stock carb setup from a 72 on a 76 engine and it all worked for me. No surprises. Have fun, Chris A.

Robert, Call Z Therapy at 503-587-9800 or email at tech@ztherapy.com subject=Technical Question They may be able to help you even though they deal with the round top carbs mostly. Much luck, Chris A.

You're welcome, hope it works and glad I could help sort-of. Chris A.

Hmmmm.....well, if I recall correctly, the nut I got from Courtesy Nissan had a pretty defined edge opposite the hex that really pushed down on the sending unit. And the sending unit had a raised ridge in the middle or so of the its body. I remember thinking it was a pretty simple bit of engineering. Do you think if you tightened it down a little more that might help? I'm running out of suggestions. The nut wasnt out of round at all do you remember? Its a pretty thin cross section. Keep at it, you'll get it. Chris A.

Hi bartman, Umm, the thread size and pitch on the "Nissan" sending unit is more than likely metric. The hole in your V8 is likely to be standard "americanized" pipe thread. That could potentially cause the leak. Unless the threads are exactly the same or darn close. Hi zhead240, The answer to your question is "no". I use both in my garage. And they are completely different compounds. The anti-seize is a blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants in a petroleum base made to do what it says. Keep materials from bonding, rusting, seizing to each other. The thread sealant is a polymeric paste/lubricant with teflon and polyvinyl resins. Oh yeah, Castor Oil!! Use the anti-seize on bolt assemblies, use the thread sealer on connections that carry water/oil/air, sometimes gas, but gas will eat it under direct contact. FWIW, Chris A.

Hey bartman, Are you installing the stock sending unit on the V8? I installed a new one from Courtesy Nissan and with a little thread sealant at the hex end of the nut. Mine sealed just fine. Too much sealant and you might lose the ground connection. No sealant and its sure to leak. At least at my house anyway!

Use either flywheel, but get the matching clutch. I'm trying to find the different sizes for you right now. I found a good thread by searching for "Flywheel Differences". You could go there and read it. I keep finding references to 225mm and 240mm. The 2+2 being the larger one. You will need to make sure you get the correct combination of release bearing and release arm for the setup you're using to. Again, a search of the forums will help you a bunch. Chris A.