montoya_fan01

hey bro, knock yourself out. bring a screwdriver with you when you inspect the body and poke at the metal (HARD) and you'll soon know if there is major rust issues in the areas mentioned by others. If you only use your eyes, you'll miss lots cancer thats hidden. These cars rust from the inside as much as they do from the outside.

Here's a good thread to read about this sort of subject http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18603

by the time you find an L6 & rebuild it, find/rebuild carbs, find a trans, seats, springs & strut carts, etc for the suspension....expect to spend close to $3K. Then you can add in whatever it costs to fix any rust issues. IMO it sounds more like a parts car than a project car unless you have tons of time, and understand that you'll spend thousands of dollars on it before you can enjoy driving it. The better the condition of the car you start with, the less money and time you'll spend trying to make it into something you can be proud of. My old auto shop teacher had a saying that may apply here. "Why polish a turd?"

OK, Pick One

It may force one or both pistons "free"; but you'll still only be able to get one of the two pistons out (by manipulating a piston back into the caliper body you'll force the opposite piston outward enough to be removed) and you'll still have one piston recessed in the caliper body that you will not be able to remove. A I R Simple, Easy, Fast, DONE. (meanwhile some guys are still dicking around with bolts, locating fittings, filling calipers with fluid, etc.)

It could have been worse. Bill and his "mate" might have gone BARE hunting. :sick:

since the bolts don't actually "thread into" the flywheel, but do "thread into" the crankshaft.................To me, matching the crankshaft seems most logical.

Que? Is this thread wandering off to talk about coil-overs? or are there other "adjustable" springs that I don't know about? I agree with those who suggest a set of the new repro (OEM spec) springs from Courtesy. Gabriel, Monroe, NAPA, or whatever basic, "no frills" struts you can purchase cheaply should do fine for the driving situation that Palmer describes.

Is that a "Panasonic" TV, Stereo, VCR, or some other appliance? :laugh: Probably you meant Panasports?

let me know if you turn up any breats that you need to get rid of. As long as they are in decent shape I'm up for a pair or two.

Yeah, I s'pose that could work to remove the opposing piston, but at that point I think you still have to do the bolt trick to remove the other one, IMO you'd be expending more effort than you would by simply using air pressure and keeping your pinkys out of harms way. But hey, different strokes for different folks. I like to do things the easiest way I can find that doesn't damage parts. (my parts, or the car's parts)

OK, I'll bite, how would the "bolt trick" force the piston out on the opposite side of the caliper? I can see how the bolt might press one piston out, but I don't see how it can affect the piston on the other side of the caliper (the one it cannot come into contact with).

pre 6/72 production date RWC's are expensive compared to post 6/72 RWC. As Lance says, if the piston is THAT stuck, the aluminum RWC bore is almost certainly trash. MSA carries the ones you need, and I'm sure that other places do also, but I've never been able to get one from a NAPA, Autozone, Carquest etc for an "early" 240. Good Luck in your quest.

In the US it's available almost everywhere, hopefully you guys in OZ can find it easily too. It's really handy stuff for a variety of uses.

I reported the post. Hopefully someone will delete it (or at least the links) before he/she/it profits from it's posting here.

even if the bolt trick worked (and I'm not too sure it would) that would still leave the piston in the other side of the caliper to deal with. IMO air is the way to go, just watch where you park your pinkys.

I'll bet it was real easy to get them in place when the chassis was a pile of sheet metal stampings (i.e. before the chassis was assembled)

The main causes of gasoline fumes in the cabin are rotten vent hoses, a broken plastic fitting between the fuel filler and the vent hoses, and lastly the slight possibility of a leaking evap tank. I think the assumption regarding the reason for considering removal of the system was more directed at other people who foolishly leap at any excuse to remove systems that they think will result in some magical gain. Exhaust fumes in the cabin are a different kettle of fish.

So, when did George switch from wearing boxers?

I don't think there is a place to "sticky" a thread on the Home Page, BUT this subject would be an excellent addition to the Tech Articles forum.

I don't know any info about the car, BUT...... According to the title of the thread, it's an SCCA "E" Production event at Sebring International, and from what 26th-Z said, it appears to have occurred this past weekend.

Not that there is anything wrong with the .gif image that Arne posted, but if someone wants the diagram in a slightly larger image, here is a .jpeg that just about fills a 1024X768 screen at less than 60kb file size

I believe the above statement is inaccurate. It IS part of the emissions system. Gasoline fumes (burned or unburned) ARE an emissions issue. That is why automobile fuel systems must be sealed and a car will fail a CA Smog Check examination due to something as minor as the gas cap not sealing properly. As to keeping it or removing it, it's your call. You can get by without it, but if it is maintained in good order, it doesn't hurt anything.

I don't think they are "exactly" the same size. The interior panels that conceal the evap tanks are shaped different for the metal evap tank equipped cars than for the plastic evap tank equipped cars.

Andy Russell. Sorry, don't have his email address with me.