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Everything posted by st0878

  1. Your doomed to be poor the rest of your life. How many times a week do you go to eBay a week to look for parts? See what I mean!
  2. I had a 75z one time that had pin holes. I bought the POR 15 tank repair kit. It worked pretty good! You can go to their site and check it out.
  3. Wow that was great! I had no idea that these other mods may be required. Was the ZX that you transplanted a turbo? I don't understand why the intake would have to be replaced? I was planning on putting in the distributor that I had on my 76 into the new engine and plugging up my headers in the place of the ZX exaust (maybe plug the EGR for now till I can afford another header with EGR). I am assuming that injectors on the new engine would be low flow and not the high flow turbo ones. What is the rule that you used to determine correct distributor orientation? TDC vs plug one fire? Your really getting me down becase I thought the transplant would be a little more plug-n-play than it may be. This engine is in such pristine condition that I didn't want to have remove anything and replace it with parts from my old dogged out 76 engine with 100+ miles on it. Anyway thanks for helping me realize the full scope of the project.
  4. This is an 1981(2) engine that had very few miles before the car was totalled the same year it was purchased. THe engine was boxed and stored in a wharhouse since then. The engine still had the original oil and in it and is in mint condition. I am getting ready to transplant it into my 76 but there are some vacume hose connections that I'm not sure where they should go? Also I had an AFM boot that looked like it was for this engine but I'm not sure. Also if anyone knows what year this engine is fur sure then let me know. F54 block with P79 head. Thanks in advance for your help. :classic: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=17258 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=17260 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=17261 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=17263 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=17262
  5. There is absolutly no doubt in my military mind that this engine has no been touched or painted since assembly in the Datsun factory. If its because of some over sprayed blue it's becasue it was done that way in the factory.
  6. Yeh when I saw it I almost creamed my drawers. Got it on eBay for $600 and it was in Miami where I live :tapemouth .....ALOT less than a rebuild would have cost me and the comfort in knowing that everything is exactly to factory spec. I am going to take some more pictures and post them just for future reference of what the engine looked like from the factory.
  7. The blocks on the ZX engines are pretty much the same. I would need the correct year service manual to identify the vacume and crank case ventilation hose setup for this engine. I can't quite figure out if the two big hoses coming off the top of the throttle body hook up to the boot? Or does only one of them? also there are three small hose connections on the front of the throttle body that I don't know where they go. Stipid stuff like this. While the ZX engines core stay the same the emission stuff changed around alot from year to year. The BCDD has been on the engine from the begining of FI but was on the throttle body until June of 80 if I'm reading the Fiche correctly. By the way this is not a turbo engine......I wish it was.
  8. I bought this engine on eBay a few months ago. It was pulled from a wrecked 280z in 1980 before the first oil change and never used again. The guy that sold it to me said that it was out of a 1979 but now I'm not sure. The engine has the BCDD on the bottom of the intake and not on the throttle body. I looked on Carfiche.com it doesn't show the BCDD on the intake until 1980? I really don't care what year it is I just want to buy a service manual and I'm not sure what year I need. If anyone can pinpoint the year I would appreciate it. :laugh: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=14002&cat=500&page=1 See my gallery for other pics Thanks EZ
  9. I went through this a few weeks ago. I changed out the Differential and the half shafts. Seems it was the bearings after all of that. It's hard to hear when you have the car jacked up because there is no weight on the bearing so it doesn't make much noise while jacked up. I you disconnect the half shaft from the hub and turn the brake hub you will feel or hear a bad bearing if that's the problem although it may be very slight. Once the full weight of the car are on the bearing it radiates through the entire deck of the car. Also be carfull no to mis-diagnose it as a half shaft problem when you turn the wheel with the half shaft connected and the half shaft bolts are hitting on the differential housing, making a similar cylical clunking.
  10. First of all don't worrie I doubt that an eBay Power seller with 5400 trasactions is going anywhere. You can call Competition Warehouse at 305-251-8228. ask for Lenny. or Lenny@competionwarehouseusa.com
  11. I live in Miami and I also bought this kit about 6 months ago. This is a reputable warehouse business and I met the owner (really nice guy). This kit comes with the silicone grease and I think it had only one of the sway bar bushings set but not the other. As far as Hyperflex I think he has the best price. Call him because he usually only has a few of these kits available at a time, but he can get you another color if you want or may have a different color than the one he has listed. I was happy and would recommend this vendor.
  12. Dispite what all the purist say, you don't need a Nasa like environment to paint your car! Yes you may and I did get some dust in the paint but if your color sanding it's not a big problem. Moreover, anyone can do it and it will cost you considerably less. That being said you cannot fathom the amount of hard is work involved. Im an unrealistic optimist and thought I could do it in 2 weeks. I suppose you could if your metal is perfect and depending on how much help you have. Plan on your car being being down for 30-60 days with every afternoon and weekend dedicated to the project. I have a simple 33 gallon Craftsman 7 hp compressor that I paid $300 for and a $60 HVLP spray gun that bought at Harbor Freight. You will also need a mask, mine was like $30 or something. HF also carries bulk sand paper which the more you have the better, considering that you will be changing out sand paper about every 2 minutes. If you don't have the cash you can do what I did and buy everything you need over a few months. The problem with smaller tanks like mine is that they are depleating and replenishing the air in the tank more than a larger tank. The expansion and contraction of the tank causes water to form after 20-30 minutes it starts to show up at the gun. Water at the gun creates fish eye (bad!) and coagulation of the paint in the gun. Fish eye causes an innie type of spot in the paint and not an outtie like dust (these are technical terms here!).....very hard to fix without going all the way down to the color. I used a decsicant filter that I bought at ....guess where HF (they rock!). I used the following supplies: 2 Omni qts of Epoxy primer (used all) 2 Omni qts of 2k build primer (used all) 1 Omni gallon of color base (only used half) 2 Omni gallons of reducer (used 1 1/2) 1 Omni gallon of cleaner (used all) 1 gallon of Delta clear (only used half) Various hardners that come with each type of paint. 2 tack rags 15 Mixing/measuring cups 1 qt of Ice 2 part glazing compond. sqeegy Wet sanding block 11" and 17" sanding board 1 pk of 24 grit (20 sheets) 2 pk of 50 grit (20 sheets) 1 pk of 100 grit (20 sheets) 1 pk of 220 grit (20 sheets) 1 pk of 500 grit (20 sheets) 1 pk of 1000 grit (4 sheets) 1 pk of 1500 grit (4 sheets) inline air filter inline decsicant filter 1 gal aircraft stripper butload of wirewheels 1 qt of POR 15 1 gal of phosphoric acid 2 cans of 3m Rubberized under coating (most excellent product!) Find a good paint shop where they have the time to help you. If they roll their eyes at you when they realize you don't know what your doing then find another source. There are also some very experienced members on this site like EScanlon that have years of experience and are always willing to help!
  13. Keeping in mind that I have never painted a car before, I learned allot real fast! First of all there isn't pnuematic or electric tool that provides any significant aid in preping your car. 90% of all the body work turned out to be manual labor. I started by using chemical strippers to take the car down to the metal. I did this for three reasons, first I was changing colors, second it had been painted twice before and finally I wanted to treat the metal and properly seal it for rust. I used Aircraft stripper available at AutoZone by the gallon. Once down to the metal I used Phosphoric acid to etch the metal and neutralize any flash rusting. I did have some areas where rust had eaten all the way through the metal. I had invested a couple of hundred dollars in a mig welder with the intention of cutting out rusting areas and welding in good metal. Unfortunetly, it's not that easy. Welding is fricking hard, metal warps, and sheet metal burns through easily. Not that it can't be done, it can't be done with a cheap gassless welder. I used POR 15 to treat problematic areas like under the cowel, on the frame under the front fender etc., but I don't think that POR 15 is an appropriate base for other paints. It dries so smooth that nothing will stick to it. It does have it's place and does work very well in certian areas. Anyway after I had the car down to the metal I sprayed the metal with epoxy primer. Epoxy primer does not cover scratched metal or provide any real fill characteristics but it does provide an excellent seal over bare metal. Now I have to tell you that while I was stripping the car I found allot of bondo that I never had any idea existed. Both of my doors had damage that was very well hidden. Short of buying new doors, there was little I could do but to refill the dents. After 30 years, probably all of your major surfaces are showing some sort of waves and distortions. Fist of all let me say that it took me about two months to strip, sand and paint the car. I NEVER want to sand anything again. How anyone can do this for a living overwhelms me! But it's your Z and you want it to come out nice right? Anyway, starting with the bondo I would fill the area with bondo and use 24 grit sand paper like a rasp just to get the bondo down to closer to the metal. I had read an article on long boarding that said to use the roughest sand paper as long as you can to get the area flat. The theory is that the smoother the sand paper, the more it tends to round the edges. 24 grit is a bit extream, but it sure saves some time getting the bondo down to where your almost to the metal. Then I would switch to 50 grit to get the 24 grit scratches out and bring the bondo down to where you see your starting to hit metal in the surrounding areas. Then I switched to 100 grit to get it soother then went to 220 grit on the final pass. After I had the all the bondo work done on the door I took some of the 2 part glazing compond and put a very thin coat of glaze on the entire panel then sanded the panel using 220 grit with a long sanding board. This helped create that perfectly flat look across the entire panel. In fact I glazed the top and sides of the fenders to achieve that flat look as well. I found that glazing and long boarding provided the best results for leveling out wavy panels. After you have the panel(s) that you are sanding to where you think they are perfect spray them with a darker primer real lightly, and then take some 500 grit sand paper on a long board and look for high and low spots. You will be amazed at how many high and low spots that you find. Correct as necessary. After you have the panels flat, use a 2k build primer and spray the entire car. Wet sand the primer to a smooth sheen before thinking of sprating your base color. 2k build will fill minor imperfections, sanding scratches. Watch those sanding scratches because they really show through. The surface must be absolutely smooth before you paint. I painted my entire car and realized how many mistakes that I had made. I had to wet sand the entire car again as a punishment for my impatience. Luckely I had more than enough paint! Ok so I was ready to spray the color base coat (again). Spraying paint is the easy part. I put like two coats of base color let it dry and inspected the surface. I quickly wet sanded the entire car with 1000 grit. Only sand in one direction because I had read that somewhere and I changed directions a few times and it will show after clear coat the car. It only takes a few hours. If you have anywhere that you sanded through the color you will need to spray again. MAKE SURE that you spray the edges of doors, around the edge of the trunk. I'm finding that my paint in these areas to be very thin. Keep in mind that you will be having second thoughts if you chose the right color or not because the car will look like sh%$#. It WILL look different once you put the clear coat on and you get it out in the sun (especially metalics). When you think your ready spray a couple coats of clear go at it. Leave the room and come back in an hour or so. Now study all surface areas and determine if you did a good job of not. If you are finding fish eyes or orange peel like I did then stop and the next day you can take some 1000grit and wet sand the problem areas. I sprayed 1 or 2 more coats where I had sanded. After I had finished with the clear, the next day I began to wet sand the entire car. I used 1000 grit going in one direction, squeegyed it off and look to see if you see any shiny spots. Keep sanding until you have a smooth dull sheen. Then switch to 1500grit and sand the area again. Break out the buffer with some 3m fine cut compond and see how it shines! I probably spent about $500 in paint and chemicals. If you count my labor, pain and suffering tack on another $40,000 dollars. Have fun! :lick:
  14. Jesus guys...yes it was a joke...yes I got it from Myth Busters.
  15. If you don't have a fuse a 22 bullet works good!
  16. Really? Olive oil? I'll give it a try and let you know if it works. Maybe I'll do a field test to see which of the two works best. Another friend suggested throwing it in some old engine oil.
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