webdawg1

This word file might help out a little bit...If you know your total rim width, backspace...etc..etc. Then you should be able to figure out what your offset should be or at least get you in the ballpark. webdawg1 How to Measure Wheel BackSpace (Offset).doc

Don't know if that's the same one or not...I think I remember looking at one on ebay several weeks ago that was suppose to be for a 240Z. I have a 75 280Z so that's the one I need. Have been looking on eBay for quite some time for a decent splash pan. Have seen several splash pans listed on eBay recently but they all looked pretty bad... (I.E. - all bent up from floor jacks, really bad shape overall...etc...etc) From what I can see tho it appears to be in really good shape....I was fully prepared to go a LOT higher....if need be. webdawg1

Jumped all over a splash pan I saw on eBay the other night. Looks to be in really good shape. (I.E. - No major dings, Major rust...etc...etc) Should clean up quite nicely via media blasting....Powder coat that puppy gloss black or silver...Yee Haw webdawg1

Good thing it was not a Z car. Man would she be in a world of hurt...... Webdawg1

As a general rule....No. Just enough to keep them from rusting and or metal to metal contact while on the self. Same thing with the U-Joints for the half-shafts. Just enough to keep the bearings from falling out. Would lube them up good after you install them.... webdawg1

With the panasports they send you the center caps/correct lugnuts as part of the deal if I remember correctly.... webdawg1

That is pretty good... I'll have to get with him here in the next day or so. What offset you going with?? Bone stock...as far as the car goes, so nothing special...etc...etc. Most of what I've seen so far in the forums (Bone stock suspension) is usually somewhere in the 0 - +15 mm range (or larger) depending on what has been done to the suspension. webdawg1

Yeah, I'm looking at the yoko Avid H4's as well....Last I saw a set of four panasport rims was in the $1100-$1200 range. Can they do any better than that? If so, I'll be all over it....like white on rice... webdawg1

Jmark, What size tires you thinking about putting on the 15 X 7 panasports?? I'm looking at getting the 15 X 7 panasports as well. (Silver) webdawg1

Anyone have any specific info on freeze plugs in regards to material: (I.E. - Brass vs Steel) Seems to me the steel plugs would be the better choice? Any specific reason why the brass plugs would be offered as well? I assume there might/must be a specific reason for this? Just kind of curious as I've seen both listed in the part catalogs...etc...etc, listed on eBay...etc...etc. webdawg1

Carl, I hear ya....a7dz and I have been talking back and forth over the last day or two regarding this (Threaded end Up) (Threaded end Down) thing....seems he (a7dz) has one pin installed facing Down & one facing Up. Bottom line tho in all this is that they are STILL a PAIN to get out..........() Later...... webdawg1

Vince, If it's any help you can also use the spreadsheets that I have posted here. (Shameless plug) () Hey, they are free for the taking by the way. Might help you be a little bit more focused. If you have the Z car CD they will help you even more as you'll be able to see a picture of most if not all the areas you'll be working in or around. Just do a search on (Spreadsheets) webdawg1

This is was I was making reference to: Quote from Carl Becks response: As you can see from the pictures webdawg1 provided.... the lock pin is wider at the bottom - SO you drive the pin - top (threaded end) down..and out the bottom. Whatever........pound away with that BFH and wonder why it won't come out..... Later...................... webdawg1

One facing "Up" & one facing "Down"....Now that is interesting....I'd like to see that....I'd say that on 99.9999% of all the Z cars out there that they all "Should" be facing thread down. I'm basing what I say on the way the spindle pin & spindle pin lock bolt is made. The more you tighten it down the more it tightens up against the spindle pin. Picture(s) enclosed....Carl was saying hit it from the end that does not have threads after taking the nut and washer off (Which would make it much harder to get out because it would be jamming it into the hole that much harder) If anything, I was trying to make sure (Correct) information was being put out.... webdawg1 Spindle Bolt Lock Pin.bmp

It's all kind of subjective really.....just depends on how bad you want to finish what you started. You can buy replacement studs to replace the manifold/exhaust bolts currently installed. Intake manifolds are pretty easy to come by if you don't think you'll be able to fix your old one. I see them on eBay all the time....Tell you what....just take a break for a little while (I.E. - couple of weeks to maybe a month maybe) and think about it.....Look at this way how many people do you know that can say "Hey, I've got a 280Z that I'm restoring" Not very many I'll bet........ webdawg1

Carl, You sure you want to stand by that statement about the spindle pin lock bolt? If you drive it "Down" that just wedges it tighter against the spindle pin..... webdawg1

After you take the nut and washer off you should be able to use a small pin punch to get it out. You'll be driving it upwards from the bottom up. Would be a good idea to use some PB Blaster, Kroil, Liquid wrench or your own personal favorite to spray it down a few times before you try to take it out. Enclosed picture should give you a pretty good idea what they look like after being installed for approx. 30+ years.....as compared to new..... webdawg1

See any kind of label or date code on the box or filter?? If so you might be able to get a better idea as to a date.....sometimes they have a shipping label on the box if it came in as a single item. webdawg1

Pretty much depends on what tools you currently have on hand, and how good you might be with said tools....Might be the better part of valor to just take it to a (trusted auto shop) and have them do it if you don't have any type of welding equipment and metal working tools on hand. In other words by the time you bought the welding equipment and metal working tools and got good with them, it would probably be cheaper to take it to a shop and have them do it....you did not mention any type of tools you might have on hand so I'm guessing you probably have the normal hand tools. (I.E - sockets, wrenches...etc...etc) webdawg1

It's kind of a subjective issue. Depends on several related issues.... (1) Body condition of the car, (2) What all do you want to do to it...I.E. - Total restoration, Refresh only, Repair as needed, Daily driver....blah blah blah, (3) How much money are you willing to put into it? Item 3 depends on what all you want to do with item 2, and item 2 is based on item 1....So it all sort on interrelated so to speak........Bottom line tho is when it's all done and over with you'll be going....Yee Haw, Yeah baby, Uh huh...That's right........Take a real good hard look at it...top to bottom....front to back....inside....outside....make note of any problems and make your decision based on the cold hard facts....Let the journey begin............ webdawg1

Might want to go ahead and do all the fuel hoses while you're in there anyway....Might not be so lucky next time......could be on the road somewhere...and far away from help...and and all you'll be able to do is watch her BURN........... webdawg1

I can confirm the same thing on a 75 Z as well. (7/16-20 bolt size) There was a thread about 2 years ago talking about this very same subject.... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13419&highlight=anchor+bolts I thought it was pretty strange as well.... webdawg1

After looking at my diagrams (75 Z) for a little bit I would say that the two part (White) 3 pin connector goes to the (Compressor Relay - I.E. - For cars with A/C) I'm looking up the wire colors I see in the picture (Blue, Yellow, Green) and the only connector that fits the bill is the compressor relay connector. It's in the right area also...within 6-8 inches of the shunt connector. webdawg1

What's the condition of your half-shaft U-Joints?? You're saying (clunk clunk) sound. Wheel bearings would be more of a roar or low rumble sound for lack of a better term. Rear drums could be out of round as well....Just a couple of thoughts.....couple of things to consider. webdawg1

I'll have to check on my 75Z to see what it has on it. I believe it has the rubber things as well as the springs too. webdawg1