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bloxman

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About bloxman

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    Bloxman

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  • Map Location
    Grenada, West Indies
  • Occupation
    Retired

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    I recently puchased a 1975 280Z (last Month) in Pennsylvania and shipped it home to Grenada. It has a alpa 1 GTO body kit installed on it and I think I will likely need some help, and a couple people to bounce ideas off. I recently finished a 4 year project of a 1973 Jensen Healey Restoration

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  1. From what I see in the pictures, the ground wire doesn't appear bolted to either of the threaded holes designated for that purpose by the big "E". Picture shows attached to a smaller bolt lower and to the right of that terminal. Not positive it matters. Outside frame of alternator is definitely grounded. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  2. Does anyone have any thoughts on what window visor / Vent shade might fit on a 1975 280Z? I have tried many search combinations in google , amazon, eBay . Nothing comes up other than "sorry we have no specific recommendations for your application at this time". I am lead to beleive that nobody has ever needed to drive their Z in the rain that was either not equipped with A/C or it wasn't working. I'm thinking there must be a car someplace that has acceptably similar window frame shape to facilitate a modification to suit. When it rains here in Grenada , it Really rains . My A/C currently does not work and no amount of defrost vent fan can sort it out sufficiently that I can see out the windshield without wiping the inside of the windshield ten times a minute. Tricky to do while shifting gears and whipping the car around corners. I really hate showing up to work in a wet shirt. Regards Bloxman
  3. 240jetjoc Great ! Whats a sticky? Thanks for the advice I'll give it a search at Hybrids Bloxman
  4. d240zx2 Thanks for your reply, I am hesitant to up the idle as the weber manuals say leave it alone until the mix is right. And as its its my concern that the mix is not right I am going to leave it alone for now. By the way when you say you increased the idled by 250 RPM ; from what RPM to what RPM. say from 800 to 1050 or 950 to 1200? As far as the cam goes I really don't know. I suppose its possible the original cam could have been relaced as the block is a P90 and the Head an E88 I guess I'll have to pop off the valve cover and look for some markings to answer that one. Thanks again for the reply Bloxman
  5. Good Evening I would like some input and reasoning on recomendations for Jetting and Venturris for my triple weber DCOE 42's I have bench stripped and rebuilt these carbs using Weber rebuild kits. But what I don't know is if the carbs initial set up is even remotely correct for my application. I bought my 280Z last year in July it also came with a 240 engine with the triples installed and headers. But it was ouside the car as was the efi 2.8. The previous owner had bought the car with the additional engine just like myself. And never installed either. I am concerned the base line is all wrong because ... with the idle adjustment screws not making or just making contact with the lever the car lumps along as it should at a very low idle , but I only have the mixture screws open approximately a half a turn each. From everything I read the initial set up should be o.k. but i still find the plugs a bit black . which means what exactly ? are the venturis too big , too small or just right. same story for the jets. any way I am attaching a little chart I filled out that I found on the net. It makes the information sort of sensible. By the way I have the low pressure high volume carter fuel pump as recommended by weber, So fuel should be good I have upgraded the distibuter to the 79-83 ZX E1280 distiributor So spark should be cool too. Thanks for any and all thoughts /inputs recommendations Regards Bloxman
  6. Wow! Ya, that about sums it up, Wow! Near the end of the video it looks as though you actually drove over the camera .......Gutsy! You made my day. Thanks Lawrence
  7. And MikeW said let there be light! Yes!! Here comes Success!! The key to the whole problem was to reverse the positions of those contacters in the Park / headlight positions. Woohoo you ar!e the man, Seriously Great little article ,you saved my @ss budddy. Now I can pass my yearly Inspection. Right on! bloxman
  8. Well done; great pictures, concise and well thought out. Good Job thanks for the link, I saved the pdf for future refernce. Still no lights though, had enough for today, will try more tommorrow evening. My brain can't take any more of the wiring diagram headache! Might be time for reading glasses . Bloxman out
  9. Update dash lights are brighter than I have ever seen them, but the headlights still don't work! I now have 12 volts between battery ground and the three terminals at the headlights, pass, drive, and ground what gives with that?! I think this may be a ground problem. You would tend to think that the terminal marked ground in the headlight socket would show continuity between itself and any spot on the body and / or the negative batery terminal. NOPE! The saga continues tommorrow Bloxman
  10. you're are absolutely correct! I took it apart once again, and one pair of the contacters operates the park lights and one pair operates the headlights when I held them in place I was able to determine who was what. So I reassembled the switch by screwing the metal body on first then installed the switch "guts" into that and bent the tabs over while applying downward pressure. And checked for continuity again. Funnily enough I dismissed this as the problem as I have a spare combination switch and it behaves the same way...no continuity. Must be why I got it for $10 bucks on Ebay. Think I should fix it now, before I forget how! Thanks again MIKEW I will now go into my hot cramped garage and reinstall it and let you know the result. Bloxman
  11. O.K. so I'm worse off than I was last night. because I have had it apart and can't find the problem!:disappoin Came home early and took down the combination switches. took apart and cleaned the contacts in the rotary switch I can get continuity between the green wire and the green and white wire with the rotary light switch in the park light position and head lights position. I cannot get continuity between any others ie the red , and the white with a red stripe in any position. Am I supposed to? I also took apart the high low switch in the Turn signal unit and it appears to be functioning properly. I don't mind tellin' ya'll I'm starting to get a little freaked out here.
  12. Are those three replies identical or am I missing something? I spun the switch about three or four times no change. I removed the bottom of the column trim and checked for loose conections. Just for kicks I put the ignition key forward a couple o spots and tried the wipers no problem there , they work but... now my park lights don't work AND there is a blown fuse in the box. :sick: Well its too hot in the garage , the car is up on jackstands I can just barely squeeze past the partially open passenger door to see which fuse is blown. Tommorrow is another day Thanks for your help MIKEW I 'll let ya know what develops. Bloxman
  13. Thanks for your reply MIKEW Yes I did have the combination switch apart for a rebuild last year. I thought I had this behind me. Twist rapidly o.k. I'll try this. Will this confirm or deny anything?- like the contacts are dirty again? Thanks again Bloxman
  14. Give me some thoughts on this little situation. My headlights worked. I swear !I even passed inspection this time last year. When I turn combination switch to first position park lights come on, o.k. so thats good. Twist a notch further the park lights stay on, but no headlights . thats odd! Pull back on turn signal , no brights either. this is not good Fuses looked o.k. replaced them anyway. Still no headlights. removed drivers side light check for power - nothing all three contacts register Zilch! . Fuseable links have continuity to both sides? Hazards work, and the turn signals work HMMM.. Combination switch again? or high low beam turn signal? O.K. I'm baffled . Help Bloxman
  15. Everything I have read says the DCOE's don't like heat. So I must have measured a thousand different things, like carbs to brake lines,and brake booster to rear carb, carbs to top of headers. But..somehow I managed to take the filter off my breather pipe,to do the measuring ;so now I need to cut the breather down and to locate the filter closer to the block. Good Idea / Bad Idea? In addition to my Z, I have a Jensen Healey with a pair of zenith Strombergs, they leak sort of spontaniously, and a surprising volume. I don't know if Webers have any annoying habits that can get ya killed so.. I designed the shield to slope down toward the radiator and away from the carbs and into a little trough which would guide any stray gasoline out between rad and a/c compressor. Enviromental disaster I know, but better than being blowed up! The Webers run cool now ,if I could only figure what I'm doing wrong in tuning .... Bloxman
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