panchovisa

Just finished a fuel cell upgrade (out with 30 year old ATL, in with new) on completed car. Didn't want to burn it up welding, so came up with bolt/rivet method. Thought it could be of help to others that don't want to burn their cars with welding. I have to many photos to show all here, so click on attachment to see NASCAR style frame then go to my gallery for more pictures.

What happens when your oil pump goes out? Nothing good! Your car may have died at idle due to increased friction caused by lack of lubrication. The BHP at 700 rpm is not alot. Please don't run anymore "tests" until you pull the pump (easy to get at from below) and turn input shaft by hand. Any "sticky" spots, grinding noise, or other than smoooooth and free movement should send you to the local parts counter pronto. If you have an oil pressure gage, you should see AT LEAST 10 lbs at idle, and AT LEAST 30 lbs when you blip the throttle. If you haven't seen these figures there is something terribly wrong! Drain your oil pan and replace your filter. Examine the waste oil for anything unusual. A clogged filter with a stuck bypass valve can also starve an engine. After you have fixed or eliminated various problems, then pull your distibuter and use an old dis. shaft in a power drill to spin the oil pump. Have a friend verify that your oil pressure gage shows suitable pressure (turn ignition to run). Reassemble dist. and start engine. If oil gage doesn't read well kill engine immediately. In worst case you may have an internal oil leak (bad rod bearing, bad gasket from pick up to block, or other) that requires a rebuild. best wishes and good luck, Pancho

Zvoiture, Sorry to hear of your troubles. I suggest returning the car (with transportation charge one way) for return of purchase price. Then move on in your search for quality car. Follow this link to view a really well built L-28 300zx (late style) GT2 racer. This bad boy is soooooo sweet! It's pricey, but you said money was not the determining factor. http://www.race-cars.com/carsales/other/1062560599/1062560599ss.htm best wishes and Merry Christmas, Pancho

TwoManyZs, Thanks for the quick feedback. I've been searching for Hurst-Airheart sites and all I get is mentions in pages about vintage racecars. I want to keep the H-A brakes to maintain the period correctness. Looks like re-lining is the way to go.

Does anyone know of a source for new pads for the Hurst-Airheart 4 piston front and 2 piston rear brakes that were sold thru the Datsun competion catalogs of the mid to late '70's? Or does anyone know of a source that can replace friction material on my worn pads? I am putting the race brakes back onto my streetable C-Production car and want a semi-metalic pad that will work cold and wet for street and still perform for auto-x/track days. Thanks in advance, Pancho

I believe that origional (read old) Minilites were all magnesium. Panasport made very good copies (under liscence?) in aluminum. Minilite may now use aluminum as standard with magnesium being "available". One way to tell magnesium from aluminum is that "mag" is very pourous (air is lighter than even magnesium) with many fine closely spaced air pockets. This is more noticeable on machined surfaces where it can't be confused with casting texture. Another way to spot "mag" is that real mag wheels must be painted (clear, or color) to seal the wheel to prevent air from escaping the tire. This may be done on inside, and/or outside. I have "mag" wheels on my car and they are extremely light. With 12" wide race slicks my 14"x7" Sterling mags weigh approximately 18 lbs.