SteveJ

The issue could be with your fusebox or the back of it. Corrosion can play a lot of tricks with the electrical system. You've already seen the effects of 40 years of aging on wires. Keep in mind that the headlights are on a completely different circuit from the parking lights. For the early Z cars like yours, the positive side of the headlight circuit does not even go through the combo switch. If there is a loose component (wire, fusebox, etc.), banging on the dash could move the component to make or break a fault. The back of the fusebox is NOT insulated, so there is the danger of a loose wire or fusebox wreaking havoc.

Welcome. I know there is at least one not too far from you. Look at the classifieds at http://www.zcar.com. By the way, you need to give a price range that meets your requirements if you want real help.

Art, That is a voltage regulator, and it will work on your car. Conventional wisdom suggests replacing both the alternator and regulator at the same time since failure of one can damage the other. In the past, I have been lucky in bucking conventional wisdom on this. YMMV. By the way, if price is a consideration, you might also try Rockauto for the alternator and regulator. Another course of action is to find an automotive electrical shop and having them rebuild your alternator.

Steve, Is the clicking coming from the passenger side near the kick panel? If so, that is the accessory relay. The only other relay in the cabin is the defroster relay. The nice thing is that if you can hear a relay clicking, you can also feel it. Put the car in Run and touch components until you can feel the tapping of the contacts opening and closing. If I'm correct, you'll see three blue wires running to it. I doubt that the relays in the 73 would be the cause for your car coming home on a hook. Edit: I took too long in composing this. From your second post, I'd say it is the accessory relay.

All auto parts places, Wal-Mart, and Tractor Supply Company carry replacement cables. Just check the lengths and ends of the existing cables and match them up.

That's pretty much it. Just select a range that is greater than 12 volts. Also look at these links for more information. The second set of links is for measuring resistance in a circuit. Knowing how to use a voltmeter and ohmmeter can get you a long way toward figuring out what it wrong with your car. As far as replacing connectors, I can't say enough good things about Vintage Connections. Del sells most of the connectors you need, as well as nice ratcheting crimpers and an extracting tool to remove terminals from the connectors. Now for the ammeter, if you start the car and take the tach up to 2000 to 2500 RPM, does the ammeter move? I would expect it to go toward the positive side.

Apparently you didn't cover all of the forums very well...http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/datsun_240z_dash_board_removal_895483.msg2691452.html#msg2691452 Just sayin...

Art, One other thing to look at is where is the needle on the ammeter. If it's pointing toward the negative side with the car running, it means current is flowing from your battery (discharging). If it is pointing toward the positive side, it means the alternator is charging the battery.

In a stock configuration, the wires for the headlight circuit are not on the same connectors as the ignition. The only ways they could short is if the wiring was hacked or if the insulation had melted in the harness. Since the OP has barely done any diagnostics for us to give a reasonable suggestion, it's best to wait for good information before speculating.

Art, Do you know how to use a multimeter? If so take voltage readings at your battery 1. when the car is off 2. after the car has been started 3. at 2000 RPMs Also check your alternator and belt. Is the alternator turning? Does the belt have enough tension? In the early Zs like yours, the headlight switch completes the ground path for the circuit, so it isn't a short. Search around this site. Dave, aka Zs-ondabrain, posted a link for the 71 FSM supplement. That has the wiring diagrams in it. By the way, it is helpful for you to put the year of your car in your posts. Good luck and let us know what you find out.

Come on, Dave, it's only $650. I'm still thinking that the propane would work better. The link from the OP is a tool for a sealed fuel system. Smoke candles could possibly work. I used to used those in ventilation studies. They are a LOT cheaper, probably cheaper than what someone would charge to use that gadget. As I mentioned earlier, the big problem is the fan blowing the smoke around. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SUPERIOR-SIGNAL-Single-Wick-Smoke-Candles-3KLJ9?cm_mmc=Google%20Base-_-HVACR-_-Central%20Equipment-_-3KLJ9 http://www.professionalequipment.com/regin-smoke-emitters-3-minutes-5-pack-s104/hvac-sealants/?source=pegs&cid=PESEFGL

Just for a frame of reference, you couldn't have any unmetered air escaping since your intake isn't pressurized. It would be entering the intake. The smoke can work as long as the radiator fan isn't blowing it away too quickly. Another old trick is to use a propane or butane torch. Let the gas out slowly and move it around the intake. If you have a leak, the gas will richen your mixture, and if you have enough gas coming in, you will hear the RPMs go up.

Stephen has a point. If you thought it was a challenge figuring out the brake light circuit, imagine wiring the electronics in with a newer engine. It would also be without a factory wiring diagram to help.

If you want to do a swap, go to Hybridz.org. Just read a lot before posting questions. What's wrong with your L26 besides having Holley mounted on it?

You could consult with H4Lights over at zcar.com. That's his business.

What are you trying to order? There are other places that can probably provide the same things.

I had problems with loose bolts in the past. It can make for one heck of a racket.

Did you check the u-joints and bolts?

It sounds like Showcars' owner has the ethics of a Washington DC politician.

Jessi, The ultimate judge of whether or not it's worth it is you. Here are things to consider: 1. How much are you willing to spend? 2. Do you have a place to keep/work on your car where it can sit for a long period of time? 3. Do you have the will to see through a project that might take several years? Remember that restoring a car is ONLY a labor of love. You probably cannot recoup the money spent, but if you love the car/effort, that is what is important. If you want good advice from here on what needs to be done, take LOTS of pictures of the car, especially underneath the car. Post the pictures here, and let us know. There are some wonderfully knowledgeable people here. If you choose to undertake this, do your research. Read the various Z car forums. Good reading materials include Wick Humble's How to Restore Your Z Car and Bill Reagan's guide (I can't find a link to that right now.). If you put the effort into finding the answer yourself, people here will bend over backwards to help you fill in the blanks. Good luck in your decision

Search for showcars at http://www.zcar.com. Not many people seem to like that company.

Did you change your fuel filter? Is there any chance you have rust in your gas tank?

Well, The Mitty is only a few months away, April 29-May 1. The featured marque this year will be Mazda. It's a nice follow-up to the focus on BRE. The Georgia Z Club will be there on Saturday and Sunday. I'll be around the whole weekend myself. Road Atlanta is a wonderful venue. With The Mitty, you can stroll over the whole complex, including the paddock area. If you're a car nut, you owe it to yourself to make a trip. On the downside, SVRA and HSR are not working together as they had in the past, so we won't get to see any S30s going around the track in competition.

This is the page he's talking about: http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/zr/full.aspx?Page=16 I think the attached picture shows things better for what he's trying to describe. Tommy, I'm trying to remember what the inside of the door looks like. It's been a while since I was digging into it. I think the plastic piece clamps to the rod. If the plastic piece is not near the top of the rod, try putting it back into place. If the plastic piece is broken, I'm not sure if/where you could get a replacement without buying a new handle. Anyone else is free to jump in to clarify or correct anything I wrote.

Thanks. That gives me an idea of what to look for. I do have a batch of black POM rivets that I will try when I put the big LEDs in my 73.