DrFeelGood

This is the answer. TY

Fuel tank back from the shop and after applying the new insulating rubber to the holding straps, taking the opportunity to replace hoses and clamps, and cleaning up a ground point, its back on the car. One thing I noticed was there was no drain plug washer when I removed the tank. It did not leak from here but after looking it up online there is a part number for the plastic washer. I purchase and installed it but it does not look right. Fingers crossed, hopefully nothing leaks.

I believe Harbor Freight also has an inexpensive kit.

@SteveJ Thank you. Of course that's what it is for.

Hello everyone. I have been working my way through issues with my 240z acquisition and am generating more questions for the forum than answers (net negative member). Thank you for your patience and help. I have the OEM wiring diagram, (purchased in 1971 by my father) and some others including a fancy place-mat color diagram from ClassicCarWiring.com (not affiliated). I cannot seem to find what the additional wires are for, stemming from the left rear marker light harness. The wires are white and white/black. I do have the antenna wires back here as well but they are currently not attached to the aftermarket (guessing) antenna as there is no radio (I only ever needed to listen to the glorious inline-6 ) Does anyone have any idea what these wire are for? Thank you.

No linings. It looked great inside. They recommended that nothing be done with the inside. I agreed with them. It looked good to my layperson eyes aside from a little varnish.

I would have loved to know what they used as well to create a safe brazing environment. The workman was not around when I retrieved it, sadly. When I picked up the tank I could not smell fuel like before so maybe steam? The inside looked the same as when I dropped it of however, which is to say pretty clean, thankfully. They did pressure test the tank. Those plugs were mine. Nice to see they persisted. We do have some cool places around still. I didn't know about that one but one of my favorites is W.C. Winks Hardware. Another gem is Hippo Hardware & Trading Co.

To circle back and close up for posterity. I did find a local Portland, OR shop that does fuel tank work still, (Macs Radiator - Portland). The previous soft solder was removed. Both of the joints and support plate were cleaned then hard soldered (silver solder). I then had them media blast the tank exterior (my 240v A/Comp is not up and running). Summary: Tank bath and weld shop repair (Oregon, April 2026) = $168.50 Same job done with soft solder (California, May 1993) = $105.00

@Terrapin Z Thank you for replying.

Hello everyone. I have gone through all the boxes I have (I think) and cannot find the original fuel door latch that the little orange zed came with. Somewhere along the line my brother swapped it for a lock cylinder. I think someone siphoned his gas in the city at one point. Does anyone have a lead on this part? I remember it being metal. Thank in advance for any help you can give. Cheers

Well, I did get the Safety Designs roll cage removed so now I fit a little better. I still cannot adjust the drivers seat back to teh final notch but I also have not disassembled it yet. I will wait until I get the correct seat covers and can get rid of the "velour" ones installed now. I did move the cage onto another local Z-owner. New home acquired for $375. In 2001, it was purchased new for $699. This feels more than reasonable for 25 year used safety equipment. That money goes right t back into the zed of course. I will have to weld the holes closed and figure out a fix for the rear wheel arch covering that was cut for the bar mount. I likely will put rubber stoppers in there for the driving season.

Yes indeed. Thank you. If it all goes south then I know $665 + shipping will put things back on track.

I was thinking the same thing. I did take it to a shop in town on a neighbors recommendation, and they said no dice. They did the fill and drain but residue was enough to ignite. The final one they did it was no able to smell gas and it still went. I am skeptical that if I ran air through it from the shop vac on reverse, it would combust, but the calculation that comes to play, is a replacement cost $200-400 for one on ebay and those are in much worse shape than mine. They would surely require the same of labor this tank would need it I had to do it. IDK, this is all TMI already. Just curious what people would expect to pay. This job was done on this tank in 1993 by a California muffler shop and they charged $105. In today's money that is $245 (Google), although be the time you read this it may be $250. 🤪

Brake booster you say? My Mechanics

Hello everyone. I am curious about what you might expect to pay for a fuel tank repair in your area. This is a tough one for me to swallow because I have no experience working on fuel tanks (kaboom?) but feel very confident sweating a joint. There is only one game in town and they want $60 to just look at it. Thank all.

I suppose I'll find out if there is a market. Marketplace

Thanks for sharing and also the kind words. I am NOT (edited) dropping the fuel tank off now for repairs. Apparently Mac's Radiator on SE Foster Rd. does this work. I just rebuilt the fuel pump and will be overhauling the carburetors with new lines as well. I too, am very aware of fire hazard. My dad is coming into town for the summer. He is 82 and still drives the red 2003 350z he purchased to replace this one. I am going to try and get us both to the Datsun meet in Brooks, OR that @Terrapin Z mentioned. Cheers

I am mostly making this entry for a place to document my journey. Maybe it will serve as a reminder of what I did, what was done, and what may be. Maybe, just maybe, someone will find some use in it sometime down the road. The patient is a Jan 1971, purchased by my father. The car was a garage kept, California daily driver. Every day it made a 10mile round trip to his work, in the windy road, wine country hills of central California. At one point my brother took custody, a young man with ideas and dreams, he made changes. Some were for the better, others, the jury is still out. It was at this point the car became a hybrid 1971/1972. Many of his favorite items from his lime green 1972 Z, totaled in a moment if misjudgement, found their way to the 1971. At this point it moved out of the California garage and into the central valley California sun where it baked for a decade. Life choices found my dear brother moving to Europe, following a dream, meeting a partner and parking dads Z for almost 15 years. It was started and rarely driven, but at some point, life support was pulled. In 2018 the vehicle was moved to hospice, a garage in Vancouver, WA. After not moving for 8 more years. a new doctor entered the picture. Fortunate for me (and the Z), my brother was a prodigious collector and suffered from the family (Y chromosome only) "I might need this someday" condition. Alas, the car came with extras. Here is where I pick up the story.

I am curious if there is a market for a bolt in roll cage that has been previously installed. Any idea on a price in your market if it is even a viable sale option? I have a Safety Devices D004 USA Description: USA spec 6 point bolt-in cage. Clears normal trim and dashboard. Mounts in 6 places to the floor and rear wheel arches. Roll Cage Options: RBD004 3SSU-USA Front cage – US Spec RBD004 5SSU-USA Rear cage, single fixed diagonal – US Spec

@Terrapin Z Thank you.

Wow, amazing. Thank you so much for the response. I am still taking inventory of parts. I wish I had been more patient. The dome light I had looked perfect except for the broken lens. I decided to 3d print one (fast PLA) and test fit it when I realized the switch was not functional. After spending some time to rehabilitate it, with poor effect, I opened the switch. All went well, until it didn't. I made a fateful (late night) decision to buy a NOS lamp from Japan (instead of having the car repainted with the same money sarc) I believe I have the choke, fuse/ash components already. I am still waiting for my father to clean out the rest of the components when he returns in Spring. I believe he has a P90 head and some other larger items ready to make the trip. Thank you again and if I can maybe circle back as I find out more I would be grateful.

Yes, I agree. As they crumble away they are still fetching $50-$75 in a brittle, corroded, "as parts" kinda way.

Thanks for that. As a new member I want to take some time before I start asking for favors ;) Cheers

Mostly taking inventory. The car had a superficial layer of mold inside so the interior is being stripped. Enzymatic treatment of every surface and likely more. Over the years, he acquired a parts car worth of stuff that had replacements for most things including new Nissan window rubber, firewall rubber, and clutch kit. There is not a early center console in the mix (sadly) and the velour insert seat covers have got to go. No dome light either (yet). That thing is expensive. I have only gone through 40% of the stuff so far.

Hello everyone. I thought I would make the first post here. I am back in a 240z, again. This is actually the car I learned to drive in 36 years ago. My father bought it new after Vietnam and it was a garaged daily for decades. For a time by brother used it after crashing his 72 but abandoned it for 15 years when he moved out of country. I saved it from being discarded and started to bring it back to what I remember 3 and a half decades ago. Here is a picture with the roll cage out (So I fit) Cheers everyone.