Mitchel0407

Pretty late to the party but both Z’s in the video where (I believe) owned by the same guy at that time. He unfortunately sold the orange one and repainted the gray Z to yellow but ultimately sold that car as well for a BMW E92 M3. He now goes by @Dutch_e92m3 on Instagram.

Yeah here in the Netherlands not so much. You can get into serious trouble if you’re caught by the police or “Handhaving” (translated to peacekeepers, basically police without weapon rights and with a main goal to be assholes and write tickets) or get into an accident (voids all insurance and you will be 100% liable for everything). That sad I did take it around the block when I got it home and even though the car runs rich as hell it still drive pretty good. Had some time to look at the car yesterday evening and I might have found the problem. When measuring the resistance values of the AFM and temperature sensors I noticed the coolant temperature sensor (2 pin) suddenly dropping down to only 2 ohm! So I guess that the temperature sensor is bad after all. I hope I can find a replacement as they can be hard to get over here and after that verify the AFM is set correctly.

The car is as far as I have seen completely stock with the exception of aftermarket exhaust headers (explains the O2 sensor bung) and a aftermarket cold air intake filter. The crank angle sensor sits on a (I believe) homemade bracket and isn’t connected to anything. The Electrical harness (both car and engine) also aren’t modified so that lead me to the conclusion that the might have been used to “tune” the stock system. I am happy with the aftermarket exhaust headers as they sound good and I can watch the AFR via the O2 sensor and the temporary AFR gauge. I would like to monitor the AFR when driving but unfortunately the car doesn’t have an valid inspection so I can’t drive it on the road. And guess the reason it didn’t pas inspection…. So now I can only try and retune the car while stationary on my driveway, which should work fine enough for now. I did check and adjusted the TPS as the two prongs were a bit too close to each other and there was no middle ground between idle and wot positions. I set the timing to 16 btdc and the idle to 800rpm btw. I also blocked off the fuel supply to the cold start valve to eliminate that as a possible problem (don’t really need it anyway in my case). Only possible options I can think of now is to measure and check the electrical sensors (yes I read the EFI bible) and clean the inside of the AFM unit. Might also clean the injectors while I’m at it.

I have already ordered some new vacuum lines just in case as some of them seem a bit hard and if one cracks it can cause a lot of problems. But as far as I’ve seen my vacuum should be fine. My AFM unit did seem pretty dirty on the inside so I was thinking of cleaning it in a ultrasonic cleaner with an electronics friendly cleaner. Also somebody did have the AFM open at some point in time but I don’t know if they messed with the gears inside. I do have a pretty good understanding of the 280z EFI system and the inner workings of the components so I’m not afraid to touch the AFM unit but I would still like to ask for some tips and directions to look at. All in all the entire engine needed a tune up as many contacts where slightly corroded or out of spec and I suspect the car was "tuned" at some point as it has an aftermarket O2 and crank angle sensor, neither one hooked up to anything. The car runs way better now but it’s still running too rich. My vacuum lines should come in this week and I’ll do some more component testing and cleaning before I start messing with the AFM itself.

Hello everyone, maybe somebody can help me? My 1977 280z is running rich at idle and the idle mixture on the AFM doesn't seem to help. I spend the last few days cleaning the electrical connections and timing the ignition again as it was out of spec. The car runs way better but the AFR gauge I temporarily installed still shows 11,5 at idle. I'd like to bring that down (or up depending how you look at it) to 14,7 as the car stinks of gasoline. The previous owner mentioned that the car running rich was the reason it didn't pass inspection (auction company didn't mention it had no valid inspection on it, APK over here in the Netherlands). After cleaning all the connections and checking the timing I tried messing with the idle air mixture screw but that didn't help. When turning clockwise a bunch the car did start to run richer at some point but when turning anti clockwise it didn't get past 11,5 AFR. Can anybody help me diagnose the problem? I would really like to drive the car on the road before the winter stop (oldtimer insurance). Also still waiting on some parts from Zservices EU but some are on backorder. In my quest to make the car run as it should I did notice the ignition coil is a 1,5 ohm unit with a total resistance of 2 ohm with the external resistor. I believe it needs to be closer to 1 ohm total so I'll probably replace the coil with a 0,5 Ohm one. Can somebody confirm this?

I have a set of aftermarket wheels on my 1977 280z with 195/70R14 front and 225/60R14 rear and I really don’t advise going over 195 front as the steering becomes very difficult. I do have the original wheels (same as you have) but I don’t know what the tire size is on those.

If they fall down can you still get them back up into position? I saw a guy on youtube that unbolted the hinge on the door side first and after the got the car side with a wrench and swivel sockets. I might try to go that route as the car doesn’t fit in the garage (and still work on it, only 2m wide for the first 4 meters). I do have a lager carport where I park the car under to work on it so the car is still dry. That does mean I’ll have to cover the car if I take the doors off but I had to do that anyway.

No as far as I know with the introduction of fuel injection they switched from inside to outside as they where in the way of the ECU and fuse panel.

Bit late to the party but I believe my 280z came with the same or allmost the same wheels. Don’t know if they are modified as I haven’t taken the wheels off yet but I must say they look pretty good under my silver Z. Attached is one of the pictures from the auction I bought the car from. The seller also included the original set of wheels but I prefer these. Tire size is 225/60R14 in the rear and 195/70R14 in the front.

Maybe a bit late to the party but I’ll be using this thread to rebuild my 1977 280z door hinges as the passenger side in particular sages so much that the door won’t even close anymore. Any tips on removing and installing the doors on a 280z? The tricky bit is that they are bolted from the outside and I don’t want to remove the entire front end.

I may be late to the party but it’s great so see other Z owners from the Netherlands! I just bought my first Z last weekend. I bought a 1977 280z. @2-8E-Z I don’t know if you will answer but where did you get all your parts from? I’m kind of having problems locating European suppliers. I’m not afraid to order directly from the US but the import tariffs and taxes just add a lot of cost on top of the parts and shipping.