cygnusx1

Looks like assembly line photos from 1971. Nice work.

Did someone say OBX? Yes it works, and it's pretty darned tough. I am going on about 3-4 years with it now (about 350RWHP). No issues. I actually, opened up the back of my R200, and swapped in the OBX unit with the 200m ring gear from the R200 swapped onto it. I reused the shims that were already in the R200, bolted it up, checked the gear lash which was fine, and filled it with oil. I like it. My only gripe is that it does clunk, but so did the R200 before I installed the OBX. If the STi unit can eliminate the clunk, that would be a plus. Yes, my clunk is coming from the diff internals...it has been thoroughly investigated externally. I am not sure if its from the OBX, the pinion, the ring, or splines. Good luck with the STi Diff install, please report on it. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/88099-obx-differential-inspection-and-installation/?hl=obx < The picture in this thread is a photo of my OBX unit when I discovered that they were assembled BACKWARDS!

I highly doubt it. You can make them fit physically, but the stock 280Z EFI isn't going to know what to do with all that fuel.

https://startpage.com/

This looks like it could be the modern version of the 240Z steering wheel "wood". http://www.woodsure.com/whatiswoodsure.htm

I'll Paypal you $20 for the center console part. :pirate:

Nope, installing the case didn't loosen reverse. I added a 40 thousandths thick shim to the front of the R shift fork, to limit it's forward position when reverse is selected. The shim is tapped into the front bearing cover and acts as a shift rod stopper for R. With that shim in place reverse spins normally. I don't know why or what is off but I can't find it using the manual specs and instructions. It's probably a tolerance issue with something. We will see. I think it will be fine since all forward gears are fine and the selector hubs line up properly when gears are selected.

The trans is horizontal so the shafts are cantilevered which is not ideal, but they turn nicely in all gears, including reverse when I force the R fork forward or backwards 1/16" or so. I think I will do that (put the case on) because I can't think of anything else to try. I wish I had a second trans opened up right now to compare. The forks all move very nicely and all look straight on the bench. I had all the split pins in and out several times and they look good too. I will put the case on dry, and see what happens. Thanks for the tip on putting it in gear first. I had forgotten that one, since the last rebuild I did was about 25 years ago. . My only concern would be that one of the center bearings is thinner/thicker than the original and is causing some misalignment that only manifests itself with reverse engaged....I doubt it, but that's all I can figure.

I just finished replacing all the bearings and inspecting all the synchros in my 1982-83 five speed. I assembled it all in the vise, but without the case yet. The case is off so I can test it all. It shifts though the gears nicely on the bench, and all is smooth...except when I engage reverse. When I engage reverse, it is difficult to spin the input or output shafts by hand, there is quite a bit of drag. It spins with a wrench on the splines but it feels like there is a lot of drag. Possibly the 5th gear synchro dragging?? When in reverse, if I force the reverse shift rod 1/16" forward or backwards against the detent, the trans frees up perfectly. It's almost as if the ball detent for the reverse rod sets it slightly off from where it needs to be. I went over and over the manual, and everything is assembled correctly, facing the proper directions. I tried the old and the new synchro with no difference. I have a hunch that when I install the case, it may free up, by the nature of aligning everything. Any ideas? I don't remember if there is normally drag in reverse, with the case removed, or if it's unusual. Only someone that has rebuilt one can probably answer this one.

Activate the starter circuits (aka choke). Pump the pedal two or three times, and turn the key. Once the idle stabilizes (10-20 seconds after it fires) roll the choke lever off slowly, and keep it alive with the pedal. If it floods, crank it over with the choke lever off, and the pedal wide open.

Silver brake caliper paint. Spray on. I think it was VHT brand.

Zed, in short, you discovered, like I did, that the idle jet size IS your progression mixture, not really your idle mixture. Those Italians, I'll tell you!#! :stupid: 32mm chokes will have nil effect on your idle, and nil+1 effect on progression. I like the 55F9 that I just put in. I think that's a good idle jet for the 151's on my L28. Expect your mains to go up to 135 or so, and maybe up the air corrector to match. Got a micro drill set and a soldering torch yet? I make my own jets. Oh BTW, my Webers talk to me too. You are not alone.

280Z dash has a nice value to it, if it's uncracked. Be VERY gentle with it though. You can probably sell that dash to pay for a good dash for yours. The car looks great. I started off with a similar condition car, and it was a pleasure getting it back to shape.

Zed, no worries, the chokes come out right after you remove the air horns. You should be able to slip your finger in there and pull them out.

I found that you can also "cheat" by playing with base timing a little, to get that idle where you want it. A couple degrees back and the idle drops quite a bit. I also found that increasing the idle jet size, and then turning down the idle mixture screws to compensate, helped my transition, response, and torque. Effectively increases the amount of fuel passing through the progression holes. mainly because my idles were too small to begin with. I run 32mm in my 151's.

Looks sweet in black. I bet that stays clean too.

Cool method. IMHO, after doing a good cleaning like this, coating the bare aluminum with some, fuel and heat tolerant, aluminum flake paint, keeps them from ever looking stained and pitted again. Plus, once painted, they wash off very nicely when you hose off the engine bay. http://dcer.smugmug.com/Other/Datsun-Triple-Webers/i-krf9SVZ/0/L/P1080364-L.jpg

Grab with long nose plier from below and pull it down in two or three places. I then secure with a zip-tie. The rubber tends to soften over time, and loosen up. I don't think Nissan specified a clamp there.

I am not sure if this counts but I once tapped into the filter boxes to vent my Alfa crankcase back into the carbs.

I'll setup my macro lens and shoot the progression ports on both carbs. Maybe we can get a side by side comparo. I guess I should at least try the 18's before deciding on which to keep.

I know the differences. Really, I'm just asking if you think it's worth ditching the 151's for the 18's given both are on the bench?

I currently run a great set of 151's on my 2.8 powered 240Z. They run great, except for a bit of a "gasp" if I slam open the throttle below 2500rpms. Normal throttle, and spirited throttle application work fine. I just acquired a set of 18's that I planned to clean up and sell. In your opinion, should I swap to the 18's to see if they run even better? I know the 18's are supposed to be better for the L motors, mainly due to the progression design. Opinions? Sell the 151's or the 18's? Both sets are 40DCOE and I can choose 30 or 32mm chokes.

Yes, with the vel. stacks off, they should slide out with little effort.

Without swapping emulsion tubes, and no flat spots apparent in your setup, the air corrector can take out some high-rev fuel. Not correct, but it works to some extent. I went from 28 to 32 mm chokes in my 151's. It's worth doing. I didn't also change the aux venturis to be "by the book" but it runs fine.

You may want to try out a 190 air corrector to see if it counteracts the richening trend at the higher revs.