cygnusx1

Yup Hagerty helped me find the correct parts that I wanted. Not the 76 bumper, but a 72 bumper like the one I had on my 76 when it got hit. Good luck with the dealings.

Manuals. You can Paypal me $100 for this info. ;-) or of you are rich $1,000,000 Joking of course...unless you are. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

Mine does the exact same thing. No corner lights or tails. Open the fuse box cover and wiggle the third fuse down on the right. It always fixes mine. I need to firm up the crimp connections under the fuse box soon. If they remain loose for a while, they heat up and melt the plastic in the fuse box. Cycling the switch on and off until they work is not proof that the problem is in the stalk.

Back to the future. Bear in mind that these are early 320i sport package seats in a 280Z. BMW/recaro seat and 280Z seat rails with home built adapter plates.

FWIW, I had a similar issue on my 240Z and it turned out to be a loose/old/bad connection in the fuse block pigtails. A disconnect/reconnect solve it.

Making it run that badly, I would start thinking about an AFM, the AFM connector, or ECU connector, IF the fuel pump and pressures are good.

Absolutely! Download the original factory manual and it gives HIGHLY detailed step by step instructions and specifications. It also has a beautiful trouble shooting chart. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html There are three sensors that I remember...coolant temp sender for the EFI, thermo-time switch for the ignition timing/cold start injector, and the sender for the temp gauge in the dash (the one that has the broken wire in your car). I am going to the manual now....

Thanks Tomohawk. Those things are tiny. Would be cool to cover the entire exterior of the car with those! You'd be able to see it from space.

The "LED" strips that I used for the third brake light and for my halo effect are actually "SMD", sub-micro-diodes?, embedded in a clear silicone strip. They power directly off of 12v DC. They appear pretty bright at dusk and in daytime shade but they do get drowned out by the headlights at night, or in direct sunlight. They were designed for illuminating personal computers. I am not sure is they are the same product as Dave used on his car. His look very bright. Either way, ask any motorcyclist, more light is better, even if you are accused of being "blingy". With today's number of inattentive "drivers" on the road, brighter is better.

Even if you can see the rear upper weather strip in your mirror, the way my LED strip is mounted, it points directly backwards. You can not see it at all in the mirror; not even a reflection of it. You can hardly see it at all when you are standing behind the car, unless it's lit.

That shot was taken with my little Panasonic FX35 in automatic mode. The garage was dimly lit and the flash did fire. I did manually drop the exposure by -1EV. Most point and shoots overexpose, which is impossible to correct, so I usually keep mine manually underexposed. Simply try reducing the exposure on your camera.

Not quite R8 but... I like the way you laid yours out too. Horizontal layout was my first thought but I wanted to go a little BMW and a little Audi.

Rush are an amazing group of musicians. Can you take a photo of the sensors to help ID them? Also you need to make sure the temp sender for the ECU is giving you the proper resistance values. If it's out of spec, it could cause weird fuel mixtures and rough running for sure.

Is your cold start injector stuck open or closed? Does the spec fuel pressure remain in the rail for at least a few minutes after the car has been turned off? It should. Distributor cap, rotor, and wires checked or changed? Check the CTS, coolant temp sender and it's signal path back to the ECU for proper R vs Temp values. System fuel pressure should never be able to exceed that which is specified in the manual, regardless of whether the injectors are firing or not. If spec pressure was exceeded for some reason, the fuel return circuit is suspect, including the FPR. As the cold weather approaches, the injector hoses are notorious for leaking. Tighten them a bit.

It might burn the coating around the fitting though. Not the end of the world.

I agree with Carl. Many of these "restoration" places need to be rudely awakened. My buddies 72 Challenger convertible is undergoing a three year resto-rape as well. Peppered with excuses and shoddy workmanship. The worse part is that the shop continues to hold the vehicle, and the cash. His legal advisor says that there is not much he can do. Sorry to hear that after three years the Z is not in a deserving condition.

Very nice! It scared me when the camera flipped. I thought the car rolled over!

Did it break free because of rust or just a weld/solder separation? I am sure it can be repaired if the surrounding metal is clean.

My '72 sat for 23 years with gas in the tank. After draining out the molasses-like fuel. I dropped the tank and brought it to a tank shop. The crust was so bad that the shop did not want to mess with it. I found a better, cleaner tank, and then used a DIY tank cleaning and coating kit from KBS. http://www.kbs-coatings.com/ It worked well but you MUST follow every step exactly. Watch their videos. They are helpful. BTW The gunk is probably a varnish formed from old fuel.

You have a better stomach than I do. Good luck with the repairs!

The second pic is nice but the stop sign and man-lift growing out of the hood and roof, is a photographers no-no. I love the next to last one as well. The car looks great.

I have one in my garage...analog though. Sorry ;-)

Very sweet. Maybe you'll get to drive it before Winter sets in hard. I love the color of the car. I also used the Duplicolor paints on my recent resto-mod. Your project sounds very similar to the one I just finished.

Actually it is possible but you aren't going to save much time/labor. The outer rear bushings are arguably, the most difficult parts to access on an S30. Besides, since you just had them out, it should be easy. It's always easier the second time.

it ends with "meeee." My wife is calling a shrink now. :stupid: