cygnusx1

So if you work your way to the end of the trouble shooting algorhythms, what do they call it then?

Fuel turns to vapor, usually in the injectors, especially in a turbo car when parked. The car will then run lean when started up in this state because the fuel vapor, inhibits the flow of fuel through the pintle. Modern side-feed injectors are designed to better handle this, as the fuel flow in the "rail" surrounds the injector body to help pull away heat. In our old Z's the injectors are "dead headed" so that the only way to cool them enough condense the fuel, is to drive it while it flushes. The 280ZX's have the snorkel that sucks air from the road, and blows it at the injector bodies. Side feed injectors are immersed in the fuel rail flow, to aid in cooling them. Z injectors are not externally fuel cooled. Their bodies are stuck, to suffer in the heat of the engine bay.

Fuel injected cars can vapor lock. Usually when parked though. It could be a sign of pressure loss problems though. I bought a set of used inspection lids for cheap, and did a sawzall and mosquito net mod. I work on a teeny budget. I did not want to cut into my hood but it would have been more effective. These inspection lid vents definitely work though.

Right, the 240 does not use, or have provisions for the rubber seal over the radiator. My 280 does.

Keep the sun off of it. I use a dash carpet on both my clean dashes. Both are rubbed down with Vaseline once a year and then covered up. The cars are in a dark garage most of the time too.

If I am doing a light cleaning without scrubbing, more of a wet rinse of the engine bay, I start with the engine cold, start the car, and rinse it really quickly with the engine running. Do it quickly before the engine gets hot. This keeps the water from sitting in the alternator and if it stalls, you know what it was that got wet with the hose. After a cleaning, especially with the EFI models, don't forget to lube all the sticky throttle joints and bearings. A smooth throttle makes a huge difference in how the car feels.

Let's save some time.... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/page__p__896858__hl__%2Bfuel+%2Bcut__fromsearch__1#entry896858

Z motors like to drink. Rich mixtures makes them purr very smoothly. There are fixed resistors inside the ECU, that can be swapped, to taylor ALL of the parameters of the fuel injection system. I posted all the info I have over on HybridZ. I have never tried it myself, but the original author of the information did, and verified it all on a bench with a scope.

That replacement bumper end has a big scuff in it, as I see it in the photo. I suppose it's a used one.

That's why when it happened to me, I immediately looked for a high class restoration shop to get an estimate. Restorers know the difference. They would NEVER have put that right corner rubber part back on the car, and they would have included the plug that covers the bolt too. I hate to say it but... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42086-Fudge!!!-!!!!!-someone-rear-ended-my-car&p=362153&viewfull=1#post362153 I hope they make it right for you now.

I found out about the Rapture, the day after it. The gods had played a joke on us mortals. The rapture had been the most beautiful day we have had in about 6 months. Joke's on us huh? The weather here in the Northeast has been an absolute nightmare for as long as I can remember....except for on rapture day.

Use a dremel with a cutter or a stone in it to put a "cavity" up into the old bolt. Then you have a better chance of drilling. However it's going to be tough to not damage the threads up in there. If you could cut a deep enough slot into the end you might be able to use an impact screwdriver. The kind you twist and whack with a hammer. Shock and vibration is your friend when there is rust binding.

Can you drive one of each to make a decision? They are completely different animals.

Turbo will get you to the HP goal with about 1/2 the cost...and then almost double the power with the same cost. But ITB's and stroker are more period correct, and would be just as fun. Stroker Turbo anyone?

I took a comprehensive approach. Take the panels off and lay them face down. Give the backs a light coat of rubberized undercoat from Car Quest. That undercoat goes on thin and dry, and feels velvety with no residual smell. It stops creaks and some sound from coming through. Install ALL the rivets with some good quality synthetic grease. Dielectric compound works well too.

Thanks. The car came as a roller so I used my 280Z engine. The motor is a totally stock L28 that came out of my 280Z with about 110k miles or so. It was cleaned, re-gasketed, and painted. The 280Z got a turbo swap so I had the extra motor. The foam socks didn't work out. They were too restrictive. I ended up installing K&N filter boxes that have enough depth to retain the velocity stacks inside. Hilborn screens would look awesome. I need to look for those.

It can be done effectively and be beneficial over carbs. It becomes no different than any other ITB EFI setup. No you don't even need ONE wideband O2 sensor to make it work. Although, one in the collector would be a good tool for tuning. A simple balance tube can work fine for gathering MAP. Getting a smooth MAP signal is the largest hurdle in the conversion, and can be done by the balance tube and handled further with the software in the EFI.

It looks most like 280Z/307 to me. Photos are tough to judge though. I brought 907, 307 and the mystery car into photoshop. I let photoshop autobalance the photographs for white balance, then I took samples of different lighted areas of the cars. There are many spots where the mystery car is a very close match to 307. 907 had less in common with the mystery car.

If the car above is not in original paint code, then it might be this color. This is Tommy Sullivan's 280Z in its original blue paint. 307 Blue Metallic However the 240Z in original paint will be code 903 which is similar to the 307 for the 280Z.

It has been a while so I figure I would throw in some updated pics. The car has been an absolute blast to drive. The sound, the steering response, the handling...and on and on. I like it more every day. I ended up putting the Panasport wheels onto my turbo 76 car because of their strength for track use. I brought the Sportmax wheels over onto the 240Z and I really think they look better on the 240Z. The color of the car has grown on me and really doesn't get into it's "powerband" until the sun hits it.

FWIW, I changed them in-car a few years back. I used a slide hammer, if I recall, with an 8mm bolt in the end of it, to pull the bearing cap. FYI, if you do that, you need to apply four beads of sealant to the area during assembly. Two beads in the corners of the block cradle area, and two beads along the keyed edges of the cap itself. It's visualized in the FSM. Truthfully I could have dug the side seals out, but I wanted to have a look at the bearing shell while I was there.

I don't want to generalize, but "we" need to learn that "we" can't expect $100/hr salary to make a burger, then go out to eat expecting a $1 burger on the menu. Then we should not be surprised when we find that the $2 burger on the menu was outsourced, and that your position making burgers has been eliminated.

Anyone notice that this car has D caps on it? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-240Z-1972-Datsun-240Z-auto-silver-red-interior-RARE-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45fa2dbcd1QQitemZ300550044881QQptZUSQ5fCarsQ5fTrucks#v4-43

The kit muffler from MSA is typically an "offset in" and "center out".

See if you can take it back to the shop and have them tuck the muffler up into the cavity where the OEM one used to fit. This is the 6 into 1 on my car. It took a little figuring but the muffler fits perfectly up inside the rear quarter, vertically. The diff between the two systems would be that they are designed to be used with diff headers. Just turn the muffler about 100 degrees CCW and it fits with no interference. If it's the Magnaflow muffler like mine from MSA, it should have a center pipe "in" and the offset pipe "out". BTW, what color is your Z, it looks almost identical to mine!