Zs-ondabrain

Thanks Carl:classic: I thought I was the only one who understood that he was looking for a builder as well. So have you heard of GUDE out of california? Dave

Of course my suggestion was for any one keeping it bone stock or running the penny pincher route:classic:

Your best bet is to try to match the black paint ( usually a flat or satin ) lightly spayed then use a pick or something of that matter to clean or scratch out the letters and numbers. Good luck, Dave.

I'mnot sure if they still exist or not but there used to be a company called ( GUDE) in California. They build small motors like yours and last I read, they took an L20-B ( 2.0 liter ) and pushed over 300 HP out of it. With basic head work ald moderate bottom end work. Has any one heard of them or am I just special? Dave.

one (1) 12" MTX IN THE WHEEL WELL OF MY 240Z SPARE!!! SPARE!!!! WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN SPARE!!!

Not neccessarily Xargon, the hazzards work wether the ignition is on or not, the turn signals only work if the ignition is on. therefor, that leads me to believe that they run off of two different power sources, a constant and a switched. like bambikiller said, "check yer fuses" use an ohms meter on them to be sure. or find a new fuse and replace the fuse in question. little known fact is, fuses don't always blow where the glass is, some fuses blow within the metal end caps and look "good" to the obvious onlooker, always test em "The voltmeter is our friend"!!!:classic: good luck, Dave.

1) Engaged! and she has five children ( all who love me ) 2) always my birthday when she's around 3) she always wants some THING and preferbly from a white male 4) she's too good to make up, especially in the bedroom 5) I AM one of the Luckiest guys on earth

thats because you started this thread after our bed time. SO........ when you were talking about your erections, we were putting ours to good use. when you guys were getting a handle on your sex life, ours were being "handled" by some one else.

I had'nt seen any one give you picture reference yet so I decided to hop in and get flash happy hope any of this helps Dave

And this finger is at #4 ( notice the location of the fan, water inlet etc, for reference purposes)

finger is at the number one TDC POSITION FOR THE #1 spark plug wire

Try these, arrows do the talking.

One thing to keep in mind, is that most of us bought our Z's From some one who could'nt keep there hands to them selves. they wanted mags and mufflers, that sweet 13" steering wheel, and the AM radio had no place in there car. And the one thought on there mind was probably " I'll be damned if I'm keeping all this stock crap in my yard now that I customized my baby!" So if your Z is almost bone-stock, your one of the lucky ones. Did you buy it that way? Did you restore it? Or did you click your ruby red heals and say............... " there's no car like Z, there's no car like Z, there's no car like Z" Whats the story on your Z? let us know, I'll bet we're more interested than you think. Dave.

have any of you seen a hatch pop that actually works in a 69-78 Z I cant believe there are no takers

Hey Victor, Just remember the old saying "you get what you pay for" if the cheap one don't fit so well, you probably should have paid more. Dave.

And don't forget, most of the time when you buy a clutch KIT they put one in the box ( if it's a good kit)

Grab a neighbor if possible and crawl under the car. if the fluid levels are ok the fork could have slipped?, the slavecould be bad?, you won't really know until some one pushes on the peddle when your under the car good luck! Dave

You're correct, but what I was trying to get across was that the 240Zs and most others come with a plastic sheet over the inside of the door that acts like a vapor barrier and keeps some noise out of the cab. Dynomat and all other products in the same class do essencially the same thing as the plastic sheet with the exception of they are designed for sound deadening, and are tar or asphalt based, which make them water proof. The door still has the same cubic feet as before but its a more re-enforsed enclosure and vibration is cut severely to a minimum. You can't go wrong with these products and even the cheap ones are better than using just plastic, unless your going for that "true original look". Even if you use just a small piece in the middle of a panel, ( for lack of funds or trying to keep the weight down) there is still a significant differrence in sound and vibration transfer.

So cut it the same way you would a plastic sheet that you would normally use as a vapor barrier, all around the door seam aprox 1/2" shorter in diameter than your door panel Clean the surface really good and warm it up before you put the dynomat (etc.) on. and roll out as many air bubbles as possible using a wooden or rubber roller and a heat gun. One thing you might want to consider is matting under the headliner. its the biggest interior sheet metal on the car and the most often forgotten about. and the wheel well too.

its about time you guys asked a stereo related question, and yes dynomat and other related meterials are used BIG TIME in the car audio world. I've been doing car stereo for over 17 years. All 3 products are excellent for 1) noise reduction 2) vibration dampening and 3) as a moisture barrier. as for the door or car in question, I use the THIN dynomat or alternate (cheap stuff) as a vapor stop on the inside of the door, behind the door panel, (which will also stop that pesky drip that you see at the bottom of the door and on the inside skuff plate after a good rain or washing) the door panel usually goes right back on and the mat does not push out on the panel either. as for acoustic usage or making you speakers more efficiant under less wattage, placing a thick or double layered peice (aprox. 6" to 8" inches in diameter ) directly behind the speaker ( on the inside of the outer door skin) will stop almost all resinence and vibration. hense, you'll hear more music than noise. and the dynomat seals off the door to make it a better enclosure for the speaker So all and all, you cant really go wrong with this stuff. it usually available at any real stereo shop and you might want to try a place called "the right connection" they got tons of stuff for your car.

what is the moisture or humidity like in your area, especially at night? POP CAN THEORY, When the temperature outside is hotter than that inside ( a sweatting soda can ) in-other-words, when you shut the car off after heating the exhaust system sufficiantly, the moisture from the outside air collects all through out the exhaust system. Mean while, it collects soot that is all through out the pipping, and deposits it in the form of spray and or a constant dripping. It wont smell like fuel or oil, its thicker than water and thinner than oil, and the dark color comes from the pipe itself. roughly meaning, its not some thing to freak out about. the motor will collect condensation through out the coolling proccess (be it minutes or hours) and naturally spit them out every time you start and run the car. I have a black spot on my garage door ( about 2 feet in diameter) that is from my 1970, 120,000 hard miles, 240Z. RELAX, but have it check out just for your own peace of mind. If i'm correct, me and Beandip both live in the N.W. of the united states and we're used to it. Dave.

And if you use an open end wrench make sure that it is damn tight before you start turning or bloody nuckles are going to be the least of your problems if there is room for a small vice-grip, use it.

how is the car in the air (ie;) are the rear tires in a position for you to spin them, and get the nuts into a better position for you to get a rench on them I am familiar with the d-bolts but have not had a prob reaching the nuts w/ a wrench

I've never heard of or personally had a problem with the drive shaft nuts and bolts not coming off. do you have a digital cam that you can get under there? cause I'm not understanding why they would not come off. Have you shot it with WD/40? smacked it w/ a hammer? Is the exhaust in the way? Details are the name of the game. If you got 'em, share 'em. They should be 12MM nuts with lockwashers. get back to us.