kcpope

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Far left is 280z standard equipment , far right is 240z standard equipment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pretty sure I found a post that answers my above question, and the answer is yes, my longer collar should be correct for the exedy 06009 kit. Answer is in the very first post… https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64999-variable-clutch-cover-height-or-thickness-availability/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Agreed, I’d love to get the exedy kit. This is the correct kit for a 280z with a 225 flywheel (which I measured and confirmed is what I have)… https://a.co/d/iPBEEji I also have the Type B collar circled below… Would love to know if the type B 4 speed collar is correct for the exedy 06009 clutch kit but I cant seem to confirm that. It would make sense that the two are compatible given the Type B collar is typically found in 280z’s. And this exedy kit if for a 280z. Anyone out there able to confirm? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Next debacle… Do I get the perfection kit specified for the L28… Or do I get the kit specified for the L24… As the pictures show, the collar height appears slightly different between the two models, which theoretically shouldn’t matter because everything it the kit should work seemlessly together. And the pressure plates appear slightly different. That said, any opinions on which kit weighs less? Every bit helps. I actually read somewhere that the earlier 240z pressure plates were thicker than the 280z ones. So maybe I should choose the L28 kit. Hmmm… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m as perplexed as both of you. I think it’s just a hodgepodge of “make it work” pieces. Who knows. Like zed mentioned, I’m just replacing it all to be sure. Asked my machinist about lightening the flywheel while he was resurfacing it, but the cost would’ve been darn near the price of a fidanza aluminum piece. So I just decided to resurface it for $65. Done, picture attached. Now, selecting a clutch kit. The only 225mm kit that includes a collar, is the perfection clutch kit. It seems to be sold by summit and autozone as well, just with different branding (zoom, duralast). It’s economical and seems to have decent reviews. Zed, I know you weren’t a fan. But it’s the only kit that includes a collar and would eliminate that headache. I’d like to consider exedy, but it doesn’t come with a collar, so I’d then have to do the whole 92mm measurement mess and then spend another $50 on a collar, maybe. Unless someone can confirm that my existing collar will work with the exedy kit, I’ll prolly just order the perfection kit because I know the collar will be right… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As it turns out, the TO bearing part number indicates its intended for a 240sx. And I *think* is facing the correct direction for that application, but questionable in this scenario… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, if I end up getting a 240mm flywheel, I’ll need to get the matching clutch and pressure plate. Unless I get the Fidanza, which is 240mm, but apparently can accommodate either a 240mm or 225mm clutch and pressure plate, which is cool. But before I drop $500 on a setup like that, I’m going to call a few shops and see if I can get my existing 225mm flywheel resurfaced and lightened. Will prolly be significantly cheaper than an aluminum flywheel, and add some performance gains. Then I’ll just pair it with a decent (exedy maybe) clutch/pressure plate, and then go through the whole process of making sure I have the correct SLEEVE, ugh. This is prolly my best bang for the buck to eek out some performance gains, using quality parts, without breaking the bank. The trifecta! We’ll see if I can make it happen… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any reason this kit wouldn’t work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/133895036475 I know it’s a 240mm flywheel, buts it’s lightweight at 14.5lbs, so that should make up for the increased size. Also, Made in USA. Anything I’m not considering? Or there’s this kit, more expensive but a more known brand… https://www.ebay.com/itm/133466728393 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cool. Regarding 240mm being the only version available, are they painfully slow revving? Anyone with experience on that? Thx Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That was my initial thought too. Looks like it might be on backwards [emoji2361] After looking up prices, flywheels aren’t too bad either, so I’ll prolly just replace the whole flywheel/clutch combo. Regarding flywheel/clutch, any suggestions(or what to avoid)? Or is standard rock auto pieces just fine? Aluminum flywheel prices are outta my range unfortunately. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ll see about locating some pins. The sleeve you speak of, do you mind elaborating on why it’s critical and what it does? Thanks for all the great info. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh yeah, here’s the measurement. About 12 inch total diameter of the flywheel. But the portion where the clutch actually rides has a diameter of about 9 inches, which maybe translates to the 225mm you mentioned? Did the fingernail test you mentioned. Almost no ridge. Barely can tell. Also Placed a straight edge on it and shined a light from behind. Very little light passing through. And yes, only one locating dowel. 🫤 not suprised given the hodgepodge nature of the car. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cleaned up the fluwheel with some scotch brite. Does that look good enough to reuse? I don’t feel any major surface irregularities… I’ll probably just end up ordering a new pressure plate and clutch setup for the reasons you mentioned. And also, I’m no clutch expert, but there doesn’t appear to be a whole lot of friction material left on this clutch. Maybe someone can chime in and confirm… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Popped the clutch off. Let me know your thoughts. Looks OK to me [emoji2373] The rusty water marks are from me cleaning the engine up recently. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Interesting. Nah, it’s a 240z with an L28 in it. Sorry I should’ve mentioned that. Still overkill? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ll check out those measurements and see if I can gain some confidence. Thank ya. I guess the other option is to just replace the clutch/pressure/plate/TO bearing while I’ve already got it out. rock auto has them from between 80-120 bucks. Not bad, might be the right call. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not sure why my previous post is all screwy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the reply. Yes, the clutch appears to be from a local clutch shop, All Clutch Systems in Santa Ana, CA. They’re still in business so that’s a good sign. Upon further inspection, I found a part number 613015 on the throw out bearing. Looks like it’s intended for a 240SX. Interesting. Is it even possible to install a clutch from a 240sx onto an L28? I guess it is to some degree cuz I’m looking at it… Seeing as it feels smooth, I’ll likely just leave it alone and reinstall it until I’m ready to replace the clutch somewhere down the road. If it is unique to this particular kit, I don’t want to throw a new bearing on it and find out it doesn’t work. We’ll see how it goes. Here’s another couple pics for folks who didn’t see the vid… Here’s a closer pic of my fork. A bit worn, probably. But hopefully still usable… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My throw out bearing looks different than everything I see on the interwebs. Is this normal? Check out the video below for my question. Thx Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Zed Head, appreciate the reply. Next question… Seeing as I have a 280zx alternator with the internal regulator, I’m going to eliminate the external voltage regulator by adding the MSA adapter: https://www.thezstore.com/product/178/alternator-upgrade-adaptor-70-72-240z But what about this random diode shown here in the picture. What’s it for, and is it ok to unplug it as well? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For the life of me I can’t tell if this alternator in my parts bin has an internal voltage regulator or not. No markings on the case unfortunately. How can I know for sure? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, rack moves easily fully left and fully right. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just rebuilt my rack. Just a PSA regarding the rubber boots. The MOOG ones listed on rock auto will be way too big. These ones from beck/arnley, part number 103-2697, are a better fit. Not perfect, but definitely workable. I believe they’re technically for a Miata. About $15 each on Amazon. Just thought I’d share in case somebody else is having trouble finding something that fits… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ll take some pics of mine when I get home so you can see. Yes, it really squeezes the seal tight and that outer lip will deform outward and should form a tight seal. As you’re pressing and installing each screw, just keep an eye on the seal and maybe using a soft plastic pick or hook of sorts, use it to gently pull that outer lip outwards if need be. That said, I don’t recall having to do this much at all. I’ll take pics in a bit… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk