240Zdragon72

I got the car with the engine already in it. I don't know what wires he cut or whatever. All I know is that the car has a L28 engine and 240Z wires with SU Round top carbs. There wouldent be a diogram of this would there? When it comes to wiring, I'm as good as :stupid: Could you tell me which wires and where I need to splice a diode in? I don't think I'm leaving anything out. If you need more help figuring my problem out, feel free to ask me any and all the questions you need. I have a feeling if I have someone else look at her, it will cost around $300 +/- parts. Glad to have you guys around. Thanks Frank and Bambikiller.....

Ok, I don't think I'm crazy. I went to shoot wires to see if I could get the test light to come on. I found a hot wire in start and run. Thought everything was alright untill I went to shut the car off. The engine was still running. I about screamed bloody murder. :tapemouth :tapemouth :tapemouth Why is it still running with the key out in ignition? This could only mean that I was still "running off the battery." The last time I drove the car the battery power was so low everything dimmed and then shut down. I would like an opinion on what to do. (besides get rid of the car...it is part of the family.) Thanks again....

I forgot to mention, when I start my car the tach will jump and then die, but the engine runs. I must have the worse case of goblins in my car. Any suggestions...shoot more wires, take it to the shop, shoot it....I would never do that. I love my car too much. Ofcourse not as much as my family. check us out at http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=8472&password=&sort=7&thecat=500 Thanks again.

thanks man, good lookin' out. What would cause my car to stay running when I turn the key off?

Maybe you guys can help. I seem to be getting no love from hybridz fans. My 240Z has the L28 engine conversion in it. First problem I had was that I would go to start and then let off so the car would run, and it would die. I changed the back of the switch and still the same thing. Then I went to shoot wires and my wife would turn the switch so I could see what wire was hot in start and in run. So, I thought I had it going good. She would start the car and it ran. Then I did a dance and thanked the car gods, but I don't think they were home at the time. I told her to turn the car off, and she said it was. :tapemouth Keys in her hand, the car was still running. NO :sick: :tapemouth WAY!!! Where did I go wrong?? Can someone help me, the car is my baby. She needs to be driven!!

Frank, I am guessing that the right side was leaking before I left. The one spot looked really old. I wanted to know that the 5 lug axle conversion was the same bolt pattern as the front break (and vise versa) from Modern motorsport. $110 for the axles and $300 for the front brakes with 5 lug hubs. So I guess it would be $400 total. They must be the same if they are selling them on the same site? Need a little clarity. Thanks

I got a new ignition switch yesterday. Installed it and I still have the same problem. Should I just take it to the shop, or rewire the whole car myself? :tapemouth

Yeah, I read the thread on it. I am very happy for you Victor. I was away when yours got stolen. I was asking about the Red 240Z from the Super Street Magazine. Anything happen?

Has anyone herd from the guy who had his Z stolen in Cali about a year ago? I hope they found it.

The carbs look like SU round tops. Look like they have aftermarket air horns and filters. I could really use an ignition switch if you don't need it.

Trying to figure out if my problem lies in the wireing or the ignition switch. I have the 280ZX conversion in my 240Z. The wireing diagram says that start goes to the tach and then to the coil. On the other hand, the conversion wire diagram says to bypass the ballast resistor and hardwire it to the start wire to the back of the tach. I see no such thing. (got the wire diagram from www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/StockToZXIng.jpg ) as I think a lot of us did. I am adding a pic of the back of my dashboard so you guys can see what I am talking about. If you have any questions for me please feel free to ask if it will help sort this whole thing out. Thanks

Thanks again for the info. I'll try to hunt one down on ebay, or try to find it someone in the links who makes or sells them. :tapemouth

ECP48, what kind of intake manifold did he have on the Twin Turbo 240Z? I can't seem to find anyone to give me an answer on what types will work on the L28. Should I just find a 280ZX intake and mount a bigger throttle body on it? Oh, hell, I just answerd my oun question....:stupid: :tapemouth Time to find me a intake manifold!!!! Brian P.S. On injectors...How big should I go? I was thinking 660cc? I would like to know what is the best for the TT setup. Thanks again.

Have you tried checking the distrubuter? You might be getting fuel and no spark or too weak of a spark depending on if the car it trying to turnover. My 240 would start but die in run. I fixed my problem with a "jumper" wire from the + side of the battery to the + side of the coil and it runs like a champ. Chech your wires. You might have gotten some corrosion on your connectors. Clean them out and try to start it again. Try to rule out some things. Start by pulling the #1 plug wire and placing it next to the right front strut nut to ground the spark. Have someone crank the car to see if you have spark form your disstrubuter to your spark plug. If not, go in reverse to the coil, then to the connectors on the coil. Good luck with it.

So does that mean that the intake and exhaust manifold will mate with the L? I would assume scence you say that it looks like it was from a skyline, and it is also a Nissan engine. What would the price of the manifolds and the turbos cost? (NO EXPENCE SPARED!) Thanks:cheeky: