speedyblue

Have you got a manual for it? It helps with all the technical data. Leaving all the water pipes disconnected from the intake keeps the manifold cooler, giving more power. (Just a little though) There are two bolts you can loosen to adjust the timing. Undoing both should give heaps of allowance. I actually replaced my points dizzy with an electric one from a skyline with the L24E motor. Cost $110 AUS but well worth it. Virtually never needs adjusting now, whereas the points needed it every few months. You wil need a timing light to set the timing, with the vacuum advance hose Disconnected.

there is a Toyota 4x4 wrecker up here, which I rung a while ago. They have then there, but they didn't know anything about bolting them to a 240Z. I didn't know much about it either, but I am a bit better informed now.

Just because it is a smoker, doesn't mean the compression should be shot. The two top rings on the piston are the ones that keep the compression above the piston, while the two thin lower ones with the funny spring spacer thingy keep the oil out. Sometimes they can wear strangely, so the oil rings are shot, but the compression rings are still good. Either that or your sump is pressurised somehow, helping the oil get past. I have never really thought about removing/replacing hot bolts or plugs. But the expansion that goes on is very small, and both would expand a little, but at different rates. I guess seeing as the plugs still go in easily, there can't be too much damage going on. That is how I tested mine. Warmed up the engin for 10-15 minutes, took out all the plugs, plus disconnected the power to the coil. Hold the throttle wide open, plus prop the su carb piston open so it doesn't hinder air flow. You don't have to take all the plugs out, you can do it one at a time, just make sure you disconnect the coil so it doesn't start up.

And that was cold did you say? Warm the engine up and it will be higher again. Well I guess that means I will have to do something about that. I will have to check the other engine I have and see what it comes up to. Hopefully better than 100.

I just checked the compression in my engine with a compression gauge, holding the carb open and the throttle flat to the floor with a warm engine. Came up at 100 in all cylinders. Is this good for a stock L28 with a 8.3:1 static compresion ratio? I have a feeling it should be higher. Any ideas?

Looks like I'm going to have to visit the toyota wreckers and have a bit of a chat. There was a really good article on the web somewhere where someone goes through the toyota conversion in pretty good detail, but I can't find it anymore. It included details like what number would be on the calipers, including the different number for the 'wide' caliper to fit the vented discs. If anyone knows the site it would be really helpful. Thanks Scott

OK I have searched a few web sites but I still can't find exactly what I am after. I want to put the Toyota 4 spot with vented disks on the front and a 1982 280zx setup on the rear instead of the drums. I have a complete 1982 280zx to steal stuff from, so I can get rear discs and calipers and master cylinder/booster if needed. I would also like to use the handbrake cable off the 280zx because my 240Z one has snapped clean. Making up any brackets/spacers won't be a problem. Is the backing plate detailed in the IZCC 240sx brake upgrade the same as the one I will need? I am not sure of the similarities between these as we don't have 240sx's over here. What Australian cars do the Toyota calipers come from and what else do I need? What year 300zx discs must I use. If anyone can point me in the right direction before I start pulling things apart, it would be very much appreciated. Also, will the stock nissan six spoke alloys off the 280zx fit over the toyota caliper setup? I like the look of them, but if they have to go, they have to go. Thanks Scott

Both of them have the L28 engine in them. Same block and head numbers. So they are the same engine, just different intake.. The old L24 did seem to rev harder, but I got rid of that over 18 months ago. Sorry for any confusion. I was wondering it it had something to do with the carbie butterflies being closer to the head than the throttle body on the fuel injected engine.

How does the fuel injection go performance wise, against the twin carbs though? I was thinking about this change also, but the fuel injected engine in the 280zx I got doesn't seem to have the throttle response of my 240z with th4e l28 and twin carbs. Both have a 2.5 inch exhaust, while the 280zx has a pod filter and the 240z has the stock orange filter and cover setup. I can't compare performance wise because ot the extra weight of the 280zx, but the engine just doesn't seem as angry.

another pic. Not too badly damaged really, but needs fixin.

I just picked up my second Z car. A 280zx that my mate crashed. Got it for a bargain, but I will need a bonnet, left hand guard front bumper and headlight surround. I couldn't just let it go to the wreckers, it will be a great car for my Mum to drive aaround. Plus it will stop my 240Z from getting lonely in the garage Can anyone help me!!

Actually, I read someone with nothing better to do and a government grant disproved the duck quack one. The Quack masks the echo so you don't hear it. It took some solid research to discover though.:stupid:

To make it into the darwin awards, someone has to die. Although, I don't think the gene pool would be any worse off with out him.

I don't think it was just the Nissan motor company that swapped keys, I think it was fairly common through all japanese cars. We had one key that would start my Dad's Mazda work ute, which was about 5 years old, out Mitsubishi Sigma, and the Suzuki outboard motor on out boat. Made the keyring light though. Other keys wouldn't work though. Strange coincidence maybe.

Must be my turn to have a say. I have had my exhaust set up on the L24 and L28 engines in my car. They sounded very similar, except the L28 was a bit deeper and idled rather rough (cam). It was a good volume up to about 3500rpm, not too quiet, not too loud, which is good when you are on the highway for an hour or two. Cruising around gave a good burble and drew good attention, but when the twin SU's were opened, the thing got very loud very quick. Rotary drivers became jealous and everyone used to comment on how good it sounded. Not a bit like those buzzy ricer burner jobs. Pushed 110 - 120dB though. Luckily the stereo pushed 130dB. It was a very practical system. Second hand Extractors from the trading post finishing in a 2.5 inch collector. 2.5 inch pipe right through into a 2.5 inch cheapie sports muffler with a 2.5 inch tip. All fitted up at Sebrings on the Gold Coast. I am very happy with it, it was fairly cheap, and it lets the engine rev. Scott

Will it bolt up to a stock 240z without any modification to the car or nose, mainly the bonnet and hinges? I like the G-nose but have never really looked into it and it sure would be nice to add to my car. I'm on the Gold Coast so it will be no problem to check them out some time.