DatsunZsRule

Hey Randy, If no one here has an extra one, try e-mailing Z Car Source. I've always had real good luck with them. They always seem to be able to get any hard to find Part for the classic Z Cars. There e-mail address is info@zcarsource.com Best of luck.

Man only 43 So very sorry for your loss Vicky. Too yung indeed.

I hate the one I have and need to replace it. The one I have now is sooo touchy with the handle. You have to be so damn careful (more than normal) when rotating the handle counterclockwise to lower the car. It's very tough to get it to lower slowly. Makes me nervous :nervous: My next one is for sure going to be a low profile like sakijo suggested. I have to drive my Z on ramps first to get the damn jack to fit under it which is also another disadvantage to it. It's one from Checker Auto Parts. Total piece of JUNK and I curse the day I bought it.

I too happen to agree with nwcubsman on this subject which is why I haven't given my secrets away. Put it this way, They would not only have to spend a ton of time to get my Z to move, but they would will also have to spend a heck of a time to even get to it. The reason I took major action on this is because I had the pleasure of catching some wizz bum lurking around my garage one time. (Mess with the bull and you get the horns :devious: )

Thanks for the info on the plugs Carl. Like you said though, they are not necessary in an EFI Z with E.I. which is why Nissan used the B6ES in the 280Z's. I just prefer to use the correct plug for my particular Z. It's good to know that there is an alternative though

Many of my pet peeves are already listed above but I will add a couple more. Dumba$$es that don't know how to take there turn at a 4 way stop intersection. They are either to scared to go and sit there when it's there turn to go, or you get people that coast right through and don't know what the word STOP means and they take YOUR turn. Both types screw everybody up at the intersection ggrrr :mad: Another one I love is when your on a road where the right lane comes to an end and you get these morons that ride the freakin right lane to the last minute and practically go around you on the shoulder after the lane ends because they are too good to be behind anybody and damn near take the nose off your car to cut over. Makes you shake your head and wonder how some of these people passed there drivers test

Well I just went ahead and got the correct B6ES plugs through NGK and told Courtesy Nissan to scratch off the plugs I'm a fussy S.O.B. when it comes to my Z 76Datsun280z, What all am I doing? -Complete Oil & Filter change and inspecting all fluid levels -Chassis Lube -Checking air filter (I have a cone shape K&N so I will clean it if needed) -Flush out cooling System and refilling with fresh clean coolant -This spring I'm also changing my differential fluid. (Transmission I did last summer so thats fine) -New Fuel Filter -New PCV Valve -All New Plugs & wires -Cap & Rotor -Check my tire pressure And thats it so far :laugh:

My thoughts exactly. I'm just going to order them through NGK direct. I'll just tell Courtesy to keep the order on all my other stuff, but scratch off the plugs. I'll go get the correct ones at NGK. :devious:

Well I'm getting all my parts to give my beautiful Z her spring Tune up and when I went to get all my stuff from Courtesy Nissan, They told me they would have to sell me the BP6ES which is used on the 240Z's and 260Z. since they are no longer stocking the B6ES. Anyone on here running the BP6ES in there 280Z? I looked it up and the "P" stands for "Projected Insulator Type" and from what I've found searching last night is that it's a little hotter plug??? I'm thinking about going through NGK direct and getting the right ones. Courtesy claims it will work fine in the 280Z??? I don't know though. Nissan Motor Co. must have had there reasons for changing to B6ES Plugs in the 280Z? Any opinions on this are welcome

No question It's for sure a nice one and he should get a good amount for it but believe it or not, I've seen classic 280Z's with the original 30+ yr. old paint job with no imperfections at all with even a little less miles on them go for around that same price. He says "The original gold 304 paint is in great condition considering its age, a very faint light crazing and water blemishes in some places. There is also a small area which looks like a chemical spill on lower left front hood (see photos) and the front right fender is off a shade." Like =Enigma= said "Nice but not $12,500 nice."

Yeah, I thought the same thing. nice 280Z but $12,500.00??? :surprised For that price there should be absolutely NO imperfections in the paint job.

Should be a fun project for ya. Good to hear you got her to run. Is that gas 5-6 yrs. old too? :paranoid:

Yeah, that is a really nice one. hhhmm Sure would look nice next to my blue one :D

Mine developed a crack this winter while in storage due to the cold and age. I got a brand new identical factory Nissan washer reservoir for it. not cheap but I want to keep my beauty original I'll be putting it in soon when I get her back out for spring/summer. waiting for the roads to get cleaned up first.

Congratulations s14280zx Glad to hear it's running better for you

Whenever I need a hard to find factory part for my Z that is No longer available, then I turn to my friends at Z Car Source. Awesome people to deal with and they seem to always be able to get whatever I need. Shoot Betsey or Jeff an e-mail at info@zcarsource.com and explain to them what you need. attach a photo of it too in your e-mail if you can to help them help you Good luck.

greekmaster, I noticed in your post above that you got an '83 280ZX. I know 1st generation Z Cars the best obviously and I'm sure Datsun may have done some re-designing in the front end? so my instructions may be different so you should still read over YOUR service Manual on your '83 280ZX incase different. You really should get a FSM (Factory Service Manual) for your specific yr. Z car. Haynes manuals like you said can be "pretty vague" Courtesy Nissan (where I got my parts from) sells the FSM's on CD ROM or you can shop around on ebay for the actual book. How hard was it? For me, not hard at all. I don't know where your mechanic skill level is or what you got for tools? Thats what really determines how difficult the job will be. Equipment/tools: Some are optional but help make the job MUCH easier: -Air Compressor -Impact gun with impact sockets -a good regular socket wrench set 1/4', 3/8', and 1/2' drive. (Metric for the Z ) -an open end wrech set (Metric) -Channel Lock Pliers -Needle Nose -regular hammer and BIG dead blow Hammer if your unable to use an air hammer to separate the tie rod ends from knuckle arms and remove knuckle arm off of ball joint. (You'll know what I mean when you read my instructions) -Ball Joint separater or pickle fork set. I used a pickle fork set. Only time a pickle for kit should NOT be used is if you plan on reusing the ball joints which you won't be in this case. they are already shot -Torque wrench. (I used both my 1/2" and 3/8" drive Torque wrenches for reassembly) -Pry Bar -Crescent Wrench -Floor Jack -Jack Stands Thats about all I can think of right now Now how I did it: -Jack up the front end and support it with Jack stands -Remove the splash pan underneith -remove cotter pin off tie rod end and remove castle nut -separate Tie Rod end socket from knuckle arm -loosen the bolts at bottom of strut that hold the knuckle arm in place then separate it from bottom end of strut. This is done by forcing the transverse link down with your pry bar. -remove the compression rod-back off the nut that secures compression rod to bracket, then remove the 2 bolts that secures the compression rod to transverse link -then remove the stabilizer bar-remove the 1 nut that connects the stabilizer connecting rod to transverse link, then remove the 2 bolts that secure the stabilizer bracket to frame. remove stabilizer from car frame. -loosen the transverse link mounting bar then separate the transverse link from suspension member. -remove the transverse link with ball joint and knuckle arm then put the transverse link in your bench vise. -remove cotter pin and castle nut for ball joint to remove knuckle arm. It will more than likely NOT want to separate. This is where the pickle fork kit comes in. Hopefully you have an air compressor and a air hammer. it will save you a lot of work and swearing -then remove the nuts (2 if I remember right) that secure ball joint to transverse link and remove the ball joint from transverse link. For the Tie Rod end: Loosen the side rod locknut and then you can unscrew tie rod end off. Not hard at all really. Hope this helps give you an idea If you still think your comfortable doing this and want to proceed, then I'll continue with the reassembling

He says: "Due to very lousy circumstances this lovely old girl has to go." Then he goes on to say in bold print: "IN ORDER TO EASE THE PAIN OF SELLING THE OLD GIRL, WE WOULD CONSIDER PARTIAL TRADES, SOMETHING INTRESTING, OR OF COURSE A Z IS ALWAYS WELCOME. how is replacing his Z with another one going to help his "lousy circumstances"??? Doesn't add up.

Crap is right. Sorry to hear that. Your son must have drove it too far after the problem happened and over heated it. Sorry to hear that man.

Carl is right on about using a butane torch to heat the area around the fill plug/drain plug as the best way to break 'em loose. I had to do this on my transmission when I serviced it. Thanks to bone head for rounding off the head of the fill plug for you, hope your still able to get a decent grip on it with a wrench

aahh this question again :D You Will obviously get more than one answer here on this topic. I've seen topics like this sometimes turn into arguments everyone gets attached to the brand oil they use. How many quarts? - 4.5 quarts what viscosity it should be? - depends on your climate. I use and recommend 10W30. Only time 20W50 should be used is if you live in a place like AZ. where it's 100+ degrees in the shade during summer. which type of oil filter ? - another one you will get lots of opinions on. Personally I only use genuine Nissan Oil Filter in my Z. Brand? - Valvoline is my personal favorite.

That sure sucks. Sorry to hear that. The answer to whether or not it should be rebuilt is to remove the cover and inspect it internally. If everything checks out good, then reinstall the cover with obviously a new gasket and fill it to the proper level and see what happens. You could just try refilling it without inspecting it and see if the noise goes away, but I would check it out for piece of mind. Good luck with it and let us know how everything turns out.

greekmaster, I bought all my parts through Courtesy Nissan. (I can't remember exactly what I paid for everything at the moment) and put everything in myself (I only trust me, myself, and I when it comes to my Z ) Me personally I always go with Factory Nissan Parts but thats just me. Do yourself a favor if you do decide to go aftermarket on these and do the job yourself - Click on the Search here and type in "Aftermarket Ball Joints" Reason I say this is because many have run into fitting issues with the aftermarket Ball Joints (bolt holes not lining up with the ones on the Transverse Link). So search and look for which aftermarket brands other members on here have had good luck with. Best of luck.

I recall reading somewhere that it is doable but my thoughts are unless you plan on doing other mods to it, leave it the way it is since it's designed by the manufacturer to work just right with the stock set up.

Yeah, I feel bad for that poor Z whats it's been through with it's stupid owners doing such dumba$$ things to it. I too am just busting my gut laughing at the morons trying to sell it and reading there info. about the car in there ads. Not at all laughing at that poor little Z.