1975yellowBSPZ

I have fuel injection, and headers, so I suppose I can speak to this somewhat (just barely as I'm new to this too). If you are going to get a free flowing exhaust and want to see a real differnce from it, and you want to keep the FI, I recommend getting the larger msa throttle body http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=11-3021-2&Category_Code=PFFC14 the ram air: http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=PFFC12 and updated fuel rail. This combination will help and give a noticeable increase in performance, but to get more performance out of the fi setup, you'll need a decent cam. I have heard a lot of talk one way or the other about fi or carbs, but the fi is really a pretty decent setup with the above mods. BW

my car has a 2.8, with a msa header fi with msa big tb, cam and some other motor goodness, 2.5" or 2 3/4" exaust (haven't measured it) to a little 2 chamber flowmaster back in the rear with no seperate resonater. It is somewhere between too loud and way too loud!! When I bought the car in houston I had to drive it back to dallas (4 hours away) we were stuck in traffic it seemed like forever, so when I finally got on an overpass I put a little gas into it. there was a harley type on a bike with loud pipes in the right lane and I saw him turn and look at me to see what was drowning out the sound of his hog!! I almost hit the barrier I was laughing so hard... BW

In referece to my original question, on my 75- using HS30-H's measurement, just like he said I did not have to remove my fenders, I loosened the front half of the fender liner and slid my hand up and around to get to the nuts on the back. The process took all of 20 minutes. The mirrors I got, much like the ones in msa's catalog, have short bases, so you have to move them outboard on the fenders, I moved them 1 3/4 inches outboard, that way I could kind of split the difference and cover the holes with the outward edge of the bases if I got the factory units at some point. I have pictures in my gallery of my setup and can take more if anyone has any questions. BW

my aplogies! I did use your measurements and it was perfect! I'm sorry I came off as indifferent, the information and the image was right on target! sorry I didn't properly thank you, I guess I forgot (toomanymessageboardpostitis) if you were in Texas I'd buy you a cold one for sure!!!! BW

Mine? Its not painted, its raw aluminum mesh. pretty low tech bu it works... I have $30 in parts in it. there are more pics in my gallery. I have some pics/specs of making it if u want more info. BW

as for the mirrors...I got some cheap black talbot knockoffs for $50 on ebay, the pictures are in my gallery. BW

FYI- the retail price is 114 each, his starting bid is right at the retail price, sooo its not a great deal, but since they are disscontinued.. http://www.konigwheels.com/catalog_product_details.cfm?CategoryID=1&ss_id=144

or you could just not have any bumpers ;-) http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=6670 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=6263&password=&sort=7&thecat=500

:stupid: found out what the deal was, the wire that plugs into the sensor on the themostat housing was unplugged just enough... pushed it in a bit and... VRRRRRMMMMMMMMMMM thanks to everyone for your help! BW

I'd put a supertrapp tip on the rear, and leave the thrush on. It will take the harshness out and allow you to tune the note. This is what I plan to do, I have a 2 chamber flowmaster and I'm in the same boat as you. the supertrapp tips are like $70. BW

OK, now I have a problem first off my 1975 z w/ the mildly hopped up L28 was burning some oil on the way back from houston where I bought it. I then did a comp check on it on found it was almost dead on 2cyls marinal on the rest. I'm in the process of figuring out what I'm going to do on the rebuild (needs rings etc) we set the valves, we put some oil in the cyl. for the compression check, just to get it as good as can be until the rebuild - now it won't run its turns over and starts with my foot to the floor, then it sputters and dies I set the timing, with it running on the starter thinking mabe that got outta whack - we had to pull the dizzy out b/c the hold down screw was stripped- retapped that and its ok it still won't run, its seems to be getting spark (I can set the timing) it seems to be getting fuel (it has a mechanical and electric fuel pump) I ran it close to out of fuel so I thought it has some junk caught in the fuel filter. It threw gas all over me so I think It's flowing fine ;-) any ideas?? I can't even drive it to the shop to get the motor worked on at this rate and it used to run fine. Help!! Bryan In Dallas

I am looking at getting some fairlady style fender mirrors for my z, the units I'm looking at use studs and nuts from the bottom. Will I need to remove my entire fenders to mount them and if so how involved is this process? BW

Thats kind of what I thought. It'd be a while before I can get the quaife and that seems like the way to go... I have more important things to worry about right now anyway - like the fact my engine has less then 40 psi on half the cyl :-( anyone with a solid running l28 in texas that can help me up - don't be shy :-) BW

2many, sooo got a lead on a welded 180 huh. I was wondering if it would be an option to run a welded rear in my auto-x car untill I could afford an lsd, but I think it might be more trouble then its worth. I just have a 180 running 4.11's and a 4speed currently. Non-adjustable sway bars front and rear, sys dynamics springs yada yada. thoughts from the zpeanut gallery? bw

I have a header thru big pipe to a 2 chamber flowmaster at the rear. Its really too loud for the street with my warmed over l28 (yeah the same one that needs a total rebuild ). I heard the way to go was to put a dynomax bullitt straght thru muffler before the rear wheels and use a tunable supertrapp at the rear (the ones with the disks). I was thinking on adding the disk unit directly to the outlet of my flowmaster, so I could quiet it a little for the street or open it up as needed, any thoughts? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUP%2D544%2D3003

My new-to-me 75 auto-x 280z with l28 was burning some oil when I drove it back from houston. I just got around to checking the compression and it doesn't look good. Anyone know anything I can do other then a rebuild or put new rings in? any tricks? I am currenly running some high deterent oil tru it to see if maybe carbon was causing the rings to stick/ and to clean up the lower end due to the blow by. I broke the bank to buy it. I chked the cyl compression and I was getting 120, 20, 80, 120, 20,10 from front to rear!! The service manual says to test if the issue is with the lower end or upper end to put oil in the plug hog and test compression - it it is much higher its in the rings?lower end - if not its valves/upper end. It trippled at least in all of the cyl. so its def rings or cyl. I don't have an engine stand or much in the way of tools. Is there any way to avoid changing the rings at this point, or anyone in dallas who whould be willing to do this type of work cheap? Can this be done with the engine in the car? It looks like at this rate I'm going to miss this years auto-x season alltogether and I don't feel comfortable with my own abilities to rebuild this whole engine myself, any leads, thought, or words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated. Bryan W

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=34204&item=2426787246 260z bumper in the wrapper on ebay

anyone know anything about the konig rewind wheels? they are panasport/minilite knockoffs and there is a guy selling 14x7's for 300 a set on ebay. he has several sets, all silver. The list on them was around 100 a wheel. does anyone know if these were discontinued and why? I'd love to have a set of the black ones, but haven't found any around. BW