LanceM

Must have come from a small town like I ship from, no postage meter, just stamps. I've seen the lady put on a lot of stamps to ship some of my stuff, but nothing like that

I would say that the clean areas are from oil wash. I wonder though how worn the rings really are. From the pic the little bit you can see of the second cylinder looks highly glazed. How do the cylinder walls look? if you wipe them dry of oil do they look highly polished like a steel mirror or say look like they have clear coating on them? On a well broken in and used engine the cylinder walls should have a dull used look to them. If the walls are glazed the rings are not sealing hardly at all. If this happened during breakin the rings may have never seated and because of the small amount of friction may be worn little if at all. This can happen during breakin and even after if the engine is used for short trips that never allow it to come up to full temp, with light loads. Once the cylinders glaze the engine turns into an oil pump since the rings can no longer do their job. The first time I saw this was on a 41 Farmall A tractor. When I bought it from this old guy he had said that the engine had been rebuilt 20 years ago and used around the yard by his neighbor, he bought it from the estate and used it to pull grandkids around in a wagon. I get it home and running and it is one smoking SOB. I pull the engine down and find that the cylinders are glazed to mirror perfection. The big suprise was that the cylinders were 0nly .002 over spec and the ring end gap was on the minumum side of the spec. I honed the cylinders and put the old rings back in, broke it in right and have used it since with no smoke and a lot more power!

Since the new battery probably has side termnials too I would just replace the cable with a new side terminal type. I've found that these tend to corrode less that the top terminal type.

The wire that connects to the spade terminal is ignition switch to starter connection, everything else should work except that the starter won't work with it disconnected. No fuseable link needed. If nothing works with that disconnected you have a problem I would say...

Most boxed sections have weep holes in them to alow condensation to escape or stiched seam welds that allow the same. On places like frame rails and the like I have injected corrosion proofing materials into those areas using a spray wand like you suggest. Much like the boys at your local rust proofing place would do, only since it is my car I think I did a little better job at making sure everything was coated. If the holes you drill are in a spot that water or dirt can enter you can get plastic/rubber plugs to fill the holes, if it is in a rather enclosed area I just leave them open. If you want to seal it up, draw a minor vacumum on the area and fill it with an inert gas like nitrogen Of course you would be hard pressed to tell if it ever leaked out

Your problem is flow not pressure. Your pump can not flow enough in GPH to keep the pressure up. 4 PSI should be plenty, 5 the upper limit otherwise you will force fuel past the needle valves when the bowls are full. What you are seeing at 3K and 2 PSI is that the pump can not handle the flow necessary to keep the pressure up to 4 PSI. I would recommend getting a higher volume pump and regulate it at 4 PSI.

3 years sitting means crap in the gas tank to me and of my experience it sounds like it may be your problem. Gas sitting for a long time turns to a varnish like crap that coats your gas tank, smells like holy hell too! New gas in the tank seems to slowly dissolve the varnish which will pass through a filter and gum up the works every where else. I would try double dosing a couple of tank fulls of injector cleaner and see if things get better. I'm figuring that the varnish is clogging the injectors overnight when the gas evaporates and after enough driving it gets flushed out and things run right, till the next day... Sounds almost exactly like the same problem I was having with my carbs. I would clean the jets and it would run great, let it set a day or two and crapola, had to clean jets again. Mine sat for 15 years and the tank was major $hit city, got it cleaned out and the problem is gone. I also found in the mean time that a good dose of Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas helped things, with it there it would keep the varnish from clogging things up as it didn't evaporate like the gas did and would let the varnish blow through on the next start up... Hope this helps...

Don't know how to check the module, I tried ohming out the bad one and got no reading, when the new dizzy came I didn't mess around with it and just stuck it in. I do know that you can check the pickup coil in the dizzy, with the dizzy out connect an AC voltmeter to the red and green wires and give the shaft a spin, you should see the meter read some voltage that will vary with the speed the shaft is spinning. I did check that. If you have several spare modules I would try ohming them out, looking for a forward/reverse differantal between the two input connectors and the two outputs. See if the modules all read about the same or maybe one of them reads really far out from the others and figure it's either the bad one or a good one

I did some looking and 5 cfm should be good for a 1/2" impact, I thought it was more. Yes you will be loosing some in the length of hose, friction and all that. In my looking I found that most impacts were rated w/1/4" inlet, though my experiance has been that they hit alot harder with bigger hose. I would guess now that the HF impact is a bit over rated, or rated in "impact torque" or some other type of fine print marketing lingo... I would maybe look for a short (25') 1/2" hose and connect it to the impact with a QD at the other end for the compressor, the fittings are all the same size, and see if that helps. Hose is pretty cheap. HF won't have 3/8" QD, you will probably have to check an industral supply or maybe NAPA. Though often used (probably most incorrectly) for assembly an impact is best used for disassembly, getting stuck stuff unstuck...

I would go with the lower CR. You will be able to burn regular gas and go. The higher will put you on the edge and gain you a wopping 5 HP or so plus the cost of premimum gas. Since the rest is stock and your DD build it that way and enjoy it.

Both, OK OK sort of both... The impact is 260 at 90psi, what cfm? What size hose are you using? and what kind of fittings inbetween? I'm guessing but to get 260 at 90 you probably need 10-11 cfm, if you are using 1/4" hose you will never get there, 3/8" is better, 1/2" would be best. If you are using quick disconnects you are loosing cfm at everyone in the line. To get the most from what you've got go to 1/2" hose direct from the impact to the compressor with no other fittings, if you must have a QD so that you can use other tools go with at least 3/8" QD, and make an adapter whip hose that goes to the more standard 1/4" for things like blow guns and the like. Another thing to check is the turn on point for the compressor, if it is adjustable set the turn on for 80 psi, that way you aren't way down in the dirt when it kicks on trying to catch up. Impact wrenches are about the most hungry air tool and need lots of cfm at pressure to meet their rated specs. All is not lost in any case, I've found that often times the hammering of an impact is more important in getting stuck things loose than shear horse power...

My guess is a bad master cylinder, it shouldn't take much to bleed the master, say 10 pedal pumps or so. Spongy brakes are another good indication that the master is going south. Considering the pressure in a closed system a pin hole leak in a line looks like a water fountain and will for sure leave a mark on the floor! Not to sound like I'm trying to sell you a fix but I have a MC that is a store rebuilt that has had fluid in it but never driven that I'll let you have for $15 shipped if you want it. I put it on then decided to do a 4 wheel disk conversion and put on a large MC from an 81.

I went through the main fill, I used a cheap 1/2" wood spade bit ($2), they have a sharp point, a good push on the drill before you start gives you a point in the metal so the bit dosen't want to wonder much. Needless to say after a few holes you throw the bit away. To get the rivits out push the center pin all the way through the rivit with an aproprate sized tool, this will allow you to take the rivit out. After you get the panel off, look for all of the pins you pushed out When you put it back together put the rivit in then insert the pin in the center and push it flush with the top of the rivit head.

Since you had it professionaly done I would first try to go back to them to get it corrected. I just sealed my own tank with extream care not to do the same thing and it did... I used a long drill extention and drilled several 1/2" holes in the baffle at the bottom to correct my mistake. Not sealing them up seems like an impossable task as the gaps are very small.

By setting your static timing higher you are getting pretty much the same thing as the vacumum advance is giving you. The trade off for setting a higher static timing is typically harder starting when the engine is hot. The best way to set timing with out using vacumum advance is to set the static timing for full advance at around 2000 rpm. 34-35 degrees is a typical full advance at this rpm. To set the timing this way warm the engine up and set the idle up to around 1800-2000 rpm and adjust it for 34 degrees. To find out where your 34 degree timing mark is check out this site http://www.thedirtforum.com/timingcalc.htm This will tell you where to put the mark on your front pully. If you set your timing up this way you will know that you have full advance out of your distributor at speed. Anyway, if you increase your static timing you shouldn't miss your vacumum advance. One of the things you loose if you go to after market carbs like webbers is vacumum advance so running without it is nothing new. I am wondering too if your vacumum advance in your distributor is leaking causing some of your low speed problems, typical of a vacumum leak??

79-81 280ZX MC is the one I used, the one from 82-83 dosen't look like it wil bolt right up, I might be wrong as I'm just looking at pics in the VB catalog.

I had heard that too about the zx calipers and the ebrake but mine hooked up no problem... Of course I had to reroute the cables some so that they wouldn't touch the half shafts but that wasn't a big deal.

Guess it depends They are a 4 bolt bracket, so if you are taking them off of a car, yes you will. What I did to put them on the car was cut out the lower back bolt area so that it would fit around the hub. All of the after market ones are 3 bolt so I didn't see any reason that these wouldn't work properly as 3 bolt also. They are 1/2" thick steel held on by large bolts so 3 should be enough. If 2 bolts are enough to hold the caliper on, 3 on the bracket should be more than enough, if you see what I mean... I didn't want to go through pulling the stub axles so I did it that way.

You guys got me scramblin to go digging in the trash for all those "rare" pieces that aren't broken too bad I can't believe $17 for that broken clip!! All the money I could have made that I've thrown away!!!!

Grab all of the mounting bolts when you go, you'll need the ones that go with the new calipers!

It's been a while but I think the old style coils were like 30-300 ohms while new style are 10 or less. Most of the new ones I've seen have "for use with electronic ignitions only" printed on the side. These are the low impeadance ones.

For my conversion I used 300zx front rotors turned down about .2" in diameter with 81 zx front calipers, a spacer was needed between the caliper and the mount to center it over the rotor. Rears used 83 280zx turbo calipers and non turbo rotors, no spacers etc needed it all just bolted on. To complete the conversion I used the MC and proporsioning valve from the 81 zx. I got the best prices on the rotors at rockauto.com, American made and real nice. Whole conversion cost me around $250 plus what I took off of the 81 parts car.

Just put a set on my 240, $52 each at the dealer.

Any low resistance 12V coil should work fine, one that is for electronic ignition. You just can't use a coil like the original 240 points coil, which is 6V and a high resistance primary coil.

I just go pl pd, a regular insurance company won't give you what it is really worth and I don't figure on wrecking it myself, I figure someone will be hitting me and their insurance company is the one I'll have to deal with. If I go PL PD I'm looking at $200 a year, full coverage around $500, I've had the car over 20 years so I've got $6000 I've saved not paying somebody for something I didn't use, that will do a lot of fixing if I ever need to and I don't plan on it. I run pl pd on all of my vehicals even my 99 Silverado, the savings add up quick and if you do have a dumba$$ attack then you pay to fix it and the insurance company is none the wiser.