LanceM

If you can not determain where they came from you will have to have the block/caps line bored. If you put it together in any order you are asking for major bottom end failure.

No. if the paint burns off, then you will have a muffler with no paint on it, not blue paint..... that is unless only silver paint burns off??? Paint job looks great, like the color!

I knew I would be right about something at least once in my life!!! Wait till I tell my wife, she won't believe me and will tell me I'm wrong but hey I've got proof!!!!!! Good luck figuring out the rest of it!

Since you live where there is plenty of salty air and if the coil is not brand new you might have a slight coating of salt and moisture on the coil. Give the coil a good bath with hot soapy water and dry it good, personally I avoid touching things like that while they are running, hate shocks!

I know nothing about turbos, but that bolt with a hole is probably part of what is called a banjo fitting... Most often seen on flex brake lines, and all of the weber carb setups I've seen have used banjo fittings for fuel inlets. Hope that helps...

I would loosen all of the valves so that pressure is removed from the springs if it is going to set for years. This will help keep moisture out of the cylinders with open valves. Just remember to set them before you try turning the engine over. But all in all you should be ok doing nothing as long as it dosen't turn into a forever timeframe

I can't believe someone would have put 13" wheel/tires on your car! I would look for some 14" slotted mags, they show up a lot on ebay, and get back to the original size for the car, but that's JMO. Of course you would have to replace the tires too if you went to 14's.

Greg, MIG is a type of wire welder that uses an inert gas to shield the weld instead of a flux. It has the ability to weld aluminum, steel, stainless, when the right gas and wire are used. Can weld sheet metal and thicker, probably one of the most popular welders. TIG uses a tunstun (sp?) contact that is shielded by an inert gas and a filler rod is used. Highly controlable and excels when welding light sheet metals, can be used for heavy gauge materials also. ARC/stick is just that, a flux coated filler rod is held in a holder and when you strike an arc the rod and the metal you are welding melt and flow. Personally I find them great for metal 3/8" thick and thicker but that's about it. MIG is what I would recommend to you, it can do so many types and thicknesses of metal and it is easy to weld well with one. Bill, In my $700 I included the welder, an autodarken helmet (got to love that baby!), a 40 cu ft tank for shielding gas, an assortment of wire in 10# rolls, tips, some new gloves, pliers, it adds up fast. Just looking at this list I would have to say that the welder was only around $350 if I remember right half that was just for "stuff"....

100% on that, Boyd carries a complex from his past or something, he should ware a sign around his neck, "I'm not a happy person, ever"...

240ZX, I'm with you, the atmosphere they show on these shows would have real people walking quick for the door, and a new job, unless the money was unbelievably good, which I doubt it could be. Another show that I used to enjoy was American Chopper, but the new season looks like forget bike building and focus on abuse, if those people are real they need to get a life, they have lost me as a viewer... Sorry to have helped divert this thread...

I don't know about the toooo loud part but I bet it won't sound like a ricer

Expensive piece of 2.5" pipe, after all that's about all it's going to be before long Just giving you a hard time too I hope that you are adding this to some other muffler to reduce some resonance??? Of course if you just use it alone I imagine you won't be hearing any resonance will you...

I forgot to include gas, and now I wish I would have allowed multiple choices as I also have a buzzbox. I wanted to include a shot of my first MIG project that has really served me well this winter, my wood stove, got $50 in firebrick in it, got lucky the steel was free!

At work today another fellow asked "How can you have fun if you don't have a welder?" and the more I thought about it the more I had to agree. So I was wondering how many Z guys and gals were having fun with a welder in their shop? I myself have a Hobart 140 MIG, probably around $700 invested, sounds like a lot but it has to have been one of my best shop investments. I haven't had it a year but I thing it is already paid for in the work it has done. I've replaced both doglegs and a rocker on my "rust free" Z, repaired a cracked frame rail from the oversized sway bar, built a lot of just old "stuff". I figure the body work alone would have probably cost me at least half that just to have somebody weld in the patch pannels. But the big payback comes when you're having fun, just finished these and have probably less than $20 in materials for both front and rear strut bars. So anyway, anyone having fun with a welder??

Plenty of room for an angle grinder and cut off wheel like Phred said, If you don't have one nows the time/reason to get one, you'll use it a lot more once you have it, one handy item!

Looks nice, one thing I noticed is that there is quite a bend in the top radiator hose, I would cut an inch or two off and try to reduce the radius there to help flow.

Thanks Eric for the link, but $360??? wow that is a little rich for my blood considering what else you would have to buy to hook it up.... But now I have a picture and measurements, so off to Lance's fab shop we go

I'd like to know where he got that airbox for the webbers...

www.drivetrain.com Don't know if they ship overseas but they handle rebuild kits and parts for Datsun Z 4 & 5 speeds.

I'll ask a dumb question, since you are running elect fans you might not notice but is the fan belt on and is the pump turning when the engine is running?? Second thing is I would pull the thermostat and run things, you should see flow through the radiator like crazy, if you still don't have any flow then you have a problem with a bad hose, waterpump, blocked block or rad...

No way to make threaded holes, it's just sheet metal.

JB would probably work ok here as there should be only vapor. Of course the best fix would be to replace it.

Ok this is just from memory and I don't have a tranny around to look at but if I remember right the front plate has an extension that covers a portion of the input shaft, take all of the bolts out and give it a wack with something sideways a bit and it should pull off. I believe the grease seal (rubber type) is in this front plate, behind it is your input shaft bearing. I think sand is in the tube type housing that is around the input shaft, so pull it off carefully and clean it and the shaft well, keeping the sand from getting the input shaft bearing since it has an open style race. When everything is clean put a little lube on the rubber seal and some sealant on the gasket (I prefer Permatex #2 to the blue goo stuff) and bolt it back together. Since the tranny lube isn't under pressure and is pretty thick you shouldn't have to buy a replacement gasket unless you want to. That should be all of the sand that I would think is in the tranny and even that isn't really "in" it yet.

Pull the plate, there is a paper gasket. If you don't clean that area out sand will be eating up your front seal.

OK, Thanks for all the responses!! I'm thinking that this might be a pass for me, I don't really need it and for sure don't need a high maintance one!