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cbuczesk

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Everything posted by cbuczesk

  1. cbuczesk posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    That sounds like an excellent way to do it! Make sure you protect the glass and interior bits when you weld AND grind. Chuck
  2. cbuczesk posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    Remember that ZF isn't the only one selling Charlie's/ZF's floors. That might just be a reseller of his floors. I'd like to see some pictures of the top and bottom of the bad floors. It's possible for just one side to rust out. Maybe the water valve or a heater hose leaked and the floor was never dried? It's hard to say what you need without seeing pictures. Chuck
  3. cbuczesk posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    I'm assuming that he needs only one floor and not the frame rail. That doesn't happen too often though. Chuck
  4. cbuczesk posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    That looks just like the ZF floor and it might be a ZF floor. Let us know how you make out. Chuck
  5. cbuczesk posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    If you got the Zedd Findings floor I think there's enough extra metal. Chuck
  6. cbuczesk posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    Rather than using screws to draw the seat mount and floor together put a factory jack and a block of wood under the floor to push the floor into the seat mount. If there's still a gap you can tap the seat mount down toward the floor since the jack/wood will be bracing the floor. That way there are less holes to weld and grind. :-) Chuck
  7. cbuczesk posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    Just drill out the spot welds. After you install the new floor you can plug weld using those holes. It's always better to weld onto new metal anyway. Chuck
  8. Thanks! I was busy with other things last night and didn't get to look. I found the fitting on Summit Racing. :-) http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-807691erl/overview/ Chuck
  9. Thanks! I'll take some measurements, do some more research and post what I find. My friend has it on his race car but he doesn't know what he bought or where he bought it. All he knows is that it's Aeroquip. Chuck
  10. Does anyone know where I can get these? Chuck
  11. cbuczesk posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    The best/easiest way is to get a new floor from Zedd Findings in Canada. I use clamps to hold the floor in place while I weld. I use plug welds on the rocker side, front and rear. I'll lap weld at the trans tunnel. Oh, and plug weld to the frame rail and seat mounts. Chuck
  12. cbuczesk posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    If there are pin holes then that area of the floor is already thin. Replace the whole thing and then you won't have to worry about fixing that area later. It's a much cleaner job that way too. You can weld it in at the factory seams on 3 of the 4 sides. Chuck
  13. cbuczesk posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    I call it the fuel filler pocket. I have a spare. Yours looks ok to me but your 1/4 panel is rusted where it's welded to the pocket. I would make a small patch and weld it in...after I removed all the fuel related parts from that area! ;-) Chuck
  14. Rock Auto is probably much cheaper than MSA. MOOG is really good stuff! There are a lot of choices at RA. You generally get what you pay for. Chuck
  15. Check Rock Auto for the TC bushings and MOOG ball joints/tie rods. Oh, they also have Moog poly sway bar bushings. Get some poly rack bushings from MSA. All of that combined with new tires and a front end alignment will make it better than new! Chuck
  16. Bent strut housing, control arm, frame or inner fender maybe? You can get adjustable camber bushings for the lower control arm. I have an extra set. If you're interested send me an email. They will come with other bushings for $30 shipped for all. I just want to get rid of the stuff. Chuck cbuczesk@comcast.net
  17. Looks great! Chuck
  18. cbuczesk posted a post in a topic in Build Threads
    That's why the Delorean is SS! Chuck
  19. cbuczesk posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    There should be almost no play. Make sure that your struts are tight in the tubes. Sometimes the gland nut comes loose. Also make sure that the bushings aren't worn. Get a friend to watch while you move the wheel so he can see exactly where things are moving. Chuck
  20. The mounting base is angled to fit the left side. Chuck
  21. Here is StealthZ's LS6 powered car getting ready to do the on-site auto-x. Awesome looking car! Chuck
  22. I hope everyone had fun! I wish I could have talked more with Captain Obvious and others but I get really busy at the show. There are some big things in the works for next year that I'm really excited about. If there are things about the show that you really liked or disliked please let me know (cbuczesk@comcast.net). Ed wants everyone to have a great time at the show. My brother was there when they shot that guy. He beat an elderly couple to death before going to the show. Fred - click on "Go Advanced" below the "+ Reply to Thread" box. You'll be able to upload images to their server and insert them into your post. Chuck
  23. cbuczesk posted a post in a topic in Internet Finds
    It's not a survivor since it's been repainted. Looks like it has a plastic fan and the clutch pedal pad is missing. 56000 miles and the pedal pads are that worn and one's missing? That doesn't jive. The car looks very good nice though. Chuck
  24. My brother sent me this pic of my car with the BRE 510 at Carlisle. :-) Chuck
  25. I took a big truckload of parts to Carlisle last night - wheels, interior panels, bumpers, rust-free hatch, louvers, struts, gauges, grills, etc. I brought my 1972 240Z ITS race car to display in the race car paddock. I'll be taking another truckload of parts up today and a Z to sell. Chuck
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