cbuczesk

Mine does require removal of the front wheel but I have a wheel mount on the bike rack for the front wheel. That frees up the hatch area for gear, etc. Chuck

The silver Z in the middle is my 1972 240Z. I use it to haul bikes all the time. I forget who makes it but I got it from Performance Bike years ago. I also have a Thule that I used on that Z and my blue 260Z. ksbeta - I also have a Paragon and Rig 29er. Been through a few frames on each. If you ever want to ride up here at Michaux let me know. Chuck

Labor to replace bearings and seals was $215 by the local Nissan dealer. Bearings and seals were $250. I can't find any info on what it cost to have to LSD unit installed. Sorry. Chuck

The PO puchased the OBX and had it installed. Pretty sure he also installed new bearings. I have the receipts at home. I'll get the info tonight and post it. Chuck

I ave the OBX in the R200 3.54 rear in my 280Z ITS race car. It has all the upgraded bolts, wachers, etc. It's seen 2+ years of auto-x and a year of road racing. No problems. Chuck

I always measure using a tape and comparing front to back. That's got to be more accurate than comparing threads. Wish I could be of more help. Chuck

I set the toe on my race car at 1/8" in. Chuck

The original colors are different and I like different. I'd keep it original. :-) Chuck

Anything that can be unbolted and put back to original is ok. Drilling holes for an air dam or rear spoiler can't be undone. You can weld the holes, etc. but that area is no longer "original". I'd pull the stock engine and set it aside. Build a different engine to use for fun. I have an AAR 'cuda and V-code Road Runner. I plan to do a lot of upgrades to them so they're more reliable and drive better. The RR already has electronic ignition, hidden CD player, radial tires, stainless exhaust, etc. Chuck

Here are some pictures of an NOS choke cable assembly that I have. Now that I've read all the posts it looks like this is the newer assembly. I'll go back to my garage to see if I have an old one in good shape. Chuck

I might have an NOS set but I won't be able to check until next week. PM me if you need my help. Chuck

My air dam mounts to the bottom of the fenders and head light buckets. Maybe 5 bolts per side. Since that picture was taken I've added an aluminum sheet to connect the upper center section of the air dam to the radiator support to better direct air. My air dam sometimes rubs on the ramps of the trailer. Upon further inspection I don't have the same air dam. Pretty sure mine's a Xenon. Chuck

You sure know how to make a guy blush. I usually get complimented on my rear end. Chuck

I'd stick with the air dam. Don't you use brake ducts? I have the same air dam on my 280Z race car and 240Z race car. The nose on mine don't sag. Somethings wrong with how your air dam is mounted or maybe your front end is tweaked? Chuck

IIRC I install the latching mechanisms first and align the door. Then I install the door glass and and related parts after it's hung. It's easier to install the door without all that weight. Chuck

I think they forgot the 3rd torque number. Off the top of my head I think the final torque is 60 or 70. Turbo bolts are 70 or 80. I can get exact numbers when I get home. Chuck

I removed my E31 head a couple months ago...while I had a hernia. It wasn't that bad but if you can get a friend to help it'll be much easier. Chuck

They'll be at the Carlisle Fall Swap Meet Oct 2-6. I'm dropping off a set of 1971 240Z bumpers. Hmmm...I should drop off my 1971 510 bumpers too. Chuck

Thy these guys. Tricityplating.com - Show quality triple chrome plating with a Lifetime Warranty on all bumpers. They do good work and it's not expensive. They did both bumpers from my 1970 Road Runner for about $700. Chuck

I used spacers to clear the tie rods on my race car when I use the 15x7 Konigs. The issue I then had was that the wheel studs were too short. I'd use the spacers all the way around if you can. Chuck

Do what Blue said. It sounds like you still have a vacuum leak. Are all of the ports plugged/sealed? Any hoses cracked? Intake manifold cracked? Let's see some pictures. Chuck

I'd get it fixed properly like Blue said. It's really not that bad. Don't worry! Chuck

From what I remember it was tight with the speakers that I installed. I just had surgery or I'd go down and measure it on my 72 240Z. You might be ok with the depth but the diameter could interfere with the vapor tank and hoses. The holes in the plastic panel are for a smaller speaker and adding holes with the same spacing will be a little tricky. Wish I could be of more help. Chuck

The right should have about a 5.5" speaker and there's none on the left. The right side has the gas vent tank the left has the power antenna. There's not a lot of room back there. There's a box you can buy that will replace the tail light panel and is cut out for 6x9 speakers. That might be a better way to go. Chuck

Welcome, Ruffy! I'm also in PA and am a big Mopar fan. Here's a pic of my 1970 V-code Road Runner. I also have an AAR 'cuda. Anyway, that looks like a nice little project you have there. I hope you get lucky and the floors/frames are the only major rust. The carb spacers are stock. You might want to talk to Charlie at Zedd Findings and get a set of his floors and frames. Check it out... Welcome to Zedd Findings Chuck