Dreco

I fixed the problem. Seems I didn't advance my timing enough. I turned the distibuter a little, and ZZZZOOOOOOMMMMMM!!!!!.......Daddy Like!!!!

I just shortened my name. I used Drecord as a long on because it matched my email address, then thought a shorted version of it would make a good profile name, hence Dreco. Since then, I've alwaysed used the User Name "Dreco" on any site I've registered at. I just never got around to changing it on this site.

I'm shortening my name to match my profile name on all the other sites I'm registered on. Just in case someone thinks Dreco is a different user.

I figured out what was up with my motor sputtering at high rpms. I assumed that I adjusted my timing right. It was off. This morning, just for the heck of it, I advanced my timing just a bit, hit the gas and WWWWWOOOOOWWW. It passed the coffee test with flying colors. It's all over my center console.

.... trust me, the parts I tossed....you didn't want. (seized smog pump, old hoses)

The first thing I did to my car( old engine) was throw all the smog equipment in the garbage, get a european balance tube and plug that HOLE.

Oh. that's right. sorry, it does go to the breather tube in the block. It's been so long since I've had that set up. I have the little air filters on mine. One for the block breather and one for the valve cover.

I'ts part of your smog equipment. I hose goes from the valve to your air cleaner. I just plugged mine. Of course I took off all of the smog equipment.

I looked at a second set of carbs that I have ( from my original engine) last night. I noticed that the piston in my spare set has a better seal than the set I had bored out. I'm wondering if the vacuum of my engine can't raise the the piston fast enough to let the correct amount of fuel up through the nozzel at higher RPMS? Anyone have thoughts on this??? I'm guessing that would be the same scenario, if you had too thick of an oil in the carbs. Speaking of oil, what weight oil should you use in the carbs? I know it's supposed to be pretty thin. I used some 5w-20 is this thin enough?? I figure I'll just swap some of the carb parts and see if there is a change.

all the filters are fine. I'm going to start with the carbs first. It hasn't always done this, but then I don't take that high in rpms THAT often.

My gut tells me it's fuel. I just got done taking it for some test runs, and everytime aroung 5000 rpms or so it would sputter then fire, sputter then fire as I went up from 5000 to around 6500 Rpms. there was never any smoke. If I backed off the throttle a little it would stop. Would running too lean cause this??? I think I'll start with increasing the float level. I've often thought that the mechanical fuel pump may not be adequate. How much psi is the stock pump rated at?? I was told by rebello that my timing should be set at 32 degrees at 4500 rpm, and it's dead on. oh that reminds me, I can take engine, in neutral , to red line, no problem, it's only when a load is applied. ( if that helps) I DO have a bigger cam (490 lift). I'm thinking that when my cam really starts to engage, it just starts to really suck the fuel, and there isn't enough there.

correcton.....It does it whether I excelerate slow or fast. I'm going to play with the timing again and see if that's what's going on.

hey all, My engine is hesitating between 5000 and 6500 rpms. can anyone tell me what to do, to determine wether it is fuel or a spark problem?? My motor runs sweet at the lower rpms, pulls hard, but when I hit around 5000 rpms or so it starts to hick-up (cuts in an out), on its way to red line. Is it starving for fuel? when I excelerate slowly it doesn't do it. Anyone have any suggestions?? I've set my timing, I've adjusted my valves (I'll check the clearance again if need be) I've balance my carbs. My plugs look good. I'm baffled.

I can see why it's being sold. :sick:

I'll be looking in Napa, Fairfield, Vallejo area.

I think that's the new motor, I heard he blew the other one. That car is one bad a$$ hombre. I know the purist's here won't care for it much, but the next best things to Z's, are just things that go FAST. Speaking of things that go fast, I'm going to Gran Prix of Sonoma this weekend. Luxury Suites.

Can you say......horsepower??

www.rebelloracing.com

I have a mechanical feul pump. I have SU's with shaved needles and they are bored out to 50mm. I was told by Rebello that the mechanical fuel pump would be sufficient enough, but at high RPMS, it hesitates, like it needs more feul. there is never any smoke coming out the tail pipe, and If I back off the throttle a little, then punch it again, and I can take it up to the red. My rotor is a little worn, but it feels like a fuel issue. Anyone have any comments??? What kind of psi difference is there between the mechanical pump and the electric. I looked by my feul tank and notice a couple of wires that look like they could be used for the power for an electric feul pump( the wire harness has 4 leads, 2 to the tank and 2 attached to nothing. Is this correct, or was the 1973 the only 240Z that had the extra power leads for an electric fuel pump.

I took a better look at what was going on under my car, and it looks like most of the play is in the rear end. probably cooked it. It is a used R200 after all. The half shalf u-joints are Spicer's with about 10,000 miles on them. Maybe it's time for a new LSD rear end. I might just replace the rear bearings just as a precaution.

I'm running 17X8 with 17/45/235 in the rear and 17X7 with 17/45/225 in the front and it JUST fits. I did have to bend the inside lip, of the top of the fender, up a little. when I hit a real hard bump, it would rub a little. I do have a lowered suspension. the back spacing on the rear rim is 5 inches, the front is 4inches. If you have more than that they won't fit with stock struts, don't get a tire wider than the rim. it's close. Just as a precaution, I grinded away a very small portion of the perch, holding the spring in, just to give me another 1/4 inch of clearance( did'nt look like it took any strength away from the perch. I guess a coil over suspension gives you a little more clearance.

sometimes the nuts won't even moveROFL

well, I checked under the car yesterday, made sure it wasn't the half shafts. I find it hard to believe the nut came loose, that 27mm nut is on there with like 150 ft lbs of torque!! both sides are doing the same thing. I put the car in gear and turn the drive line until the halfshaft won't move anymore, then the outside of the hub will 'slip' just a little bit further, then it 'grabs' and won't turn anymore. I had them checked back in Feb, when my car was inspected for NASA (national auto sport association) and they were within tollerance. Maybe that day at the track tore em up. I did have a nice little spin out that day. Look's like I'll be getting dirty this weekend.

should there be any play in the rear hub?? if so how much. I rocked the top of the wheel back and forth( pushing on top of tire) there is definately some play ( both sides). I also jacked up the car. and there is also some play in the rotation of the tire as apposed to the rotation of the half shaft. with half shaft not being able to turn, the wheel can turn an extra quarter of an inch. This may be the explanation for some of the clunking sound. The rear hub axles are original..