26th-Z

Thanks! Very, very nice pictures. What camera and setup are you using, jmark? I'm still using my Canon A2E with a 75-300mm IS zoom.

Here are a few more shots that may be of help. The fender metal covers the joint between the floor and the rocker just below the door post. Inside of the rocker at the end where the seat belt mount is. "...thus, the body sealing is secured."

Her Majesty the 26th has had her doglegs lifted twice, but please don't leak this to the tabloids. She now relys on the royal house of TABCO for her replacement panels. http://www.rustrepair.com/repair_panels/onlinecat.htm?r=ru&p=sm-datsun The reason that area takes it so hard is because the seams of the various panel shapes EScanlon is talking about are not sealed properly. As he points out, several panel shapes come togeather in this area. They are spot welded and the seams are filled with sealer. The old sealer dries and cracks. And to make this a real slap-in-the-face, the juncture gets wet just at the thought of enjoying the ride! Good luck! Find yourself a good metal surgeon and weld yourself back to clean rockers. And now that you are going to paint your car, take the time to clean out the seams and seal them back up. I have been using 3M 08300 Ultra Pro Sealant. CW-

Couple of comments and a pictures. I got the same sort of education a few years ago when I discovered the uniqueness between the model years of the S30. It has been my experience to understand that aftermarket parts for the S30 are as proliferant as the VW bug. I would say that the blue coil springs are MSA lowering springs and I say that just because they are painted blue - no other reason. I could be wrong. The welded sway bar end links are the same - probably aftermarket - and anybody's guess as to where they came from - Interpart? No reason to doubt their performance ability. It is just hard to say what specification they are.

This post hits a particular fond chord with me because one of my first posts here concerned a 'JDM' part. Looking back, I didn't have the slightest idea what I was talking about and, wow, have I learned a lot since. So lets talk about 'JDM' for a moment. Japanese Domestic Market is an American term, I think. The Japanese don't refer to thier own market area that way. They look at our market area as 'Export' yet we don't refer to our cars as the export version. However, this is really the way it is. At least I believe that our 240Z (HLS30) was an export version of a Japanese car. Pardon those who disagree. When we say we are dealing in JDM parts, we are actually talking about parts that came on the cars that we didn't get in America. We got the "AEM" (American Export Market) parts and it turns out that the Japanese crave our look like we crave theirs. Another term we use is 'Euro' and this represents another market identification - one that still confuses me. I don't see slang for parts peculiar to South America, Australia, England, etc. I think I want to summarize by saying that 'JDM' is a slang term and I think the point should be considered. The '240Z' was sold all over the world. Nowhere did it sell like it sold in America. The vast majority of the S30 type came to America and came as one version of all that was available from Datsun at the time. We find the 'JDM' and 'Euro' stuff unique because we didn't get that stuff and rare because that stuff wasn't made in the volume we think of here in America. Study the different versions of the S30 and you will find a a fascinating array of parts and options. A lot of this is discussed here on this site. Search the archives. Finally, Sundowner mentioned HLS30-H's gallery and I want to explain why Alfadog laughed. HLS30-H (I'm assuming who you are talking about) is actually HS30-H. L means left-hand drive and HS30-H does not have an L. There is significant meaning to his ID and as you begin to look at what cars went to what markets around the world, you will see the significance. Thanks. I'll get off my soapbox and welcome you new guys, your questions, and enthusiasm. And, yes, JDM parts are expensive. :classic:

Here are fender mirrors on eBay. "Buy-it-now" priced, but "get-it-over-with" availability. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NIB-Datsun-Fender-Mirrors-JDM-S30-110-210-510-240Z_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ42611QQitemZ4585482306QQrdZ1

This is the best site I know of for an explanation. http://www.ztherapy.com/

I like Nostalgic Hero, Sundowner. I have been doing the same sort of thing - collecting JDM parts for a 'look' to my car. It's not easy. It's expensive. And it takes a lot of time. You are not simply going to go out to a Japanese junk yard and find things. All the best of luck and have fun!

I have the micro-fiche printed out in a notebook and I also have one of these.

Very nice, Scott. Welcome to the club! Looks like you are going to have fun.

You are on to it, MarkDixon! This might help.

I use some stuff called "Nevr-Dull" to clean up the chrome. It comes in a blue can and is cotton wadding soaked in cleaner / polish. Rub and rub and rub - you'll be surprised how well the chromed plastic cleans up. CW-

Auction ended at $20,100. Reserve not met. Boy, did I ever take a beating today, eh? Told you it was gloves off. My fault. I never should admit that I know the guy. I'll comment that the car really does have the low mileage claimed. Not that it matters. So much has been done to it at this point, that it is not the pristine example it once was. Ahh...another day of enjoying the ride!

Wait a minute...I didn't table dance at Z-Fest last year. I was quite well behaved, in fact. I got into trouble at Syracuse. I guess it's a national convention thing. See you all in Dallas! I'm still interested in those fenders, Vicky. But for you...table dances - no charge. I'll even put on the plastic boobies.

No kidding. This was at the Long Beach national convention. Our waitress's name was Me-Lay. Those shots are proof that I am not as old as I am. You can tell I'm sober. I still have my glasses on.

How did we arrive at Ruth's Chris? I'm not dancing on tables in some steak house like I was a piece of meat or something !! !! !! With comments like the other thread, it sounds like it isn't going to sell. Oh well.

Yea, this is Burt's car again. So how much do you wanna bet, CDavid? Will it actually sell? I see he has that "reserve not met" going again. I say lunch at Hooter's that it won't sell. If I loose, you have to say it's your birthday and dance on the table. If I win, I'll dance. I hope this car finds a good home.

A good friend of mine just paid $12,000 for a very nice '91. I would think a '90 TT would be in the 15 to 18 range - at least.

The parts book says up to 8/71 for the early type. Page 10 and the updated page 10A

There is no such thing as a 1990 350Z. A 1990 300ZX twin turbo is listed in both Kelly Blue Book and NADA used car prices. Taking into account the condition of the car, average trade-in value is around $4,000 and average retail is around $8,000. Those figures sound low to me, but that's what they said.

I always feel a little spooky talking about auctions I'm interested in. The carbs on 26th and 27th do not have drain plugs in the front of the float bowls. The float bowl caps are 4-screw as are the dashpots. I don't know if these are roadster type carbs. It wouldn't surprise me. There may be some other differences - vent hoses. I'm noticing the eBay carbs are missing the fuel line attachment pieces. I'm planning to send my carbs off to Z-Therapy when the time comes. I expect to pay around a grand for each car to have them refurbish everything including the air filters. When doing something like this, it is always nice to send extra parts and pieces. That's why I'm interested.

Took the words right outa my mouth. That's why I'm interested in these.

Or snap off an e-mail to Carl. He just did a big spring repro project.

Yep! Thanks

James, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18943&highlight=springs Your springs are probably 28 years old. There's no real reason to worry about them unless the car is sagging or you want better performance from your suspension. To really check them, you have to take them off. And at that point, because of all the hassle, you might as well replace them. CW-