Curtis240Z

The front looks better than the GTR, too bad there aren't more angles to evaluate.

Suspension Techniques makes an aftermarket kit that replaces the two vertical plates that locate the rear most bushing on the A arms with plates that have "ears" which are used to mount their sway bar. Very nice kit. Much better than the MSA kit that has you drilling the floorpan behind the seats.

naturally aspirated (non-turbo)

Why didn't your Z make it up the hill? Is it an automatic or is the clutch slipping?

Motorsport Auto in Orange, CA http://www.zcarparts.com should be on your list since you are relatively close.

Since the original fuse box is compromised, I would change it with the MSA unit if you don't mind superior aftermarket, or a new OEM unit if you prefer originality. If you are confident around electrical diagrams I made a diagram to power your headlights from exterior relays thus removing the load from the fuse box. PM me if you are interested.

Looks like you have quite a project to keep you busy. The rubber accordian (duct tape area) and Air Flow Meter (AFM) (box in front of all the duct tape) are the first place to correct to try and stabilize your idle. The connector on the AFM is famous for corrosion so check that first. Have fun!

Good job. You can replace all three vent hoses without dropping the tank. I have done it a number of times. Using OEM prebent hoses help quite a bit.

MSD and Crane both make systems that are compatible with the 240Z distributor. I chose Crane HI-6 with the optical trigger adaptor and LX-92 coil. You will need a Crane or MSD tach adaptor 8920. The L28 with the will give you more torque just because of the larger displacement. I concur with the previous posts regarding mods and reality checks. I recently moved away from triple 44 mm Mikunis to try individual throttle body fuel injection and man is it a winner! Throttle response is so much better I will never go back to carbs. BTW, my Mikunis were optimized too and they still were no match for the FI. Good luck.

check the integrity of the connector at the air flow meter.

Well hold on to the hood and vents because you can't buy new vents anymore. I used the vent to draw cold air for my custom airbox.

Nice to see the 280Z vented hood on your 240Z.

did you remove the starter?

Stock is 5 degrees, but total advance is not in the 40s. It is generally agreed that a total of 36 degrees is optimum. You are getting too much total advance. Most early Zs can be set up to 12 degrees at idle to get a total of 36 degees. Maybe someone recurved your distributor.

XXR Wheel has a new design (XXR 513) that bolts on directly to S30 Z! 15" or 16" x8", 0 offset. So now they have models 002 & 513. Nice to see companies are still making wheels for our cars. Possible vendor: http://www.nlmotoring.com/XXR-513-Wheels-15x8-Gun-Metal-p/51358089.htm

Me too!

dirty fuel filter? Sound fuel related because you say the motor only slows down, not momentarily shuts off. If it is an electrical misfire then it would be jumping around in the distributor cap (carbon tracking) or it would be jumping across spark plup wires (which you could see in the dark and usually hear the spark jumping).

Unless you are going to run a lot of negative camber (using racing type camber kits) you will rub when the car is lowered. The other option would be fender small fender flares maybe like these http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/LNP1/50-1565 The carbon ones look really sharp, but of course carbon shouldn't be out in the sun full time. Good looking wheels!

You will also have to put a boss on every runner for the MAP sensor.

Nice job Derek. I have a Megasquirt with TWM ITBs on my 240Z. Check it in my photo gallery. How are you mounting your TPS and MAP sensor?

You do need the full size engine plate instead of the half size one on the automatic (is that what you are calling the spacer plate?). Manual trans oil, rubber or SS clutch slave line to hard line. Good luck.

Maybe I got a bad copy, the print is smugging if it gets any moisture on it.

You need a new one. The rear one is usually part of the vibration damper which is held in place by a rubber interface. If the rubber fails you need to replace the damper. MSA sells a new performance damper that is a good deal.

Full = 10 ohms Empty = 90 ohms