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The one JTR reccommends is the Black Magic 150 puller. I mistakenly called it a Black Max in an earlier post. Quick specs: 2800cfm,14Amp current draw,15" fan Detail Specs: http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/black-magic.html Will

I can see why the owner wants to be a po! Here we have proof that not everybody that ownes a Z comes away with something to show fot it. I respect the time, energy, and money that went into that car, but I think the owner built car that he/or she would not want to keep! Will

I finally finished grinding the floor. I have spent the last few weeks going over all of the ingredients f all of the two-part epoxy floor coatings I could find! I have found that-other than collorants and traction additives, the are all pretty much the same chemicals in very similar ratios-hence the price value for my purpose went to Valspar! $32 a gallon at Lowes. I rolled two gallons in two coats of two rooms, and I have one gallon to coat the two smaller rooms with. For just over $125 all supplies, and taxes included, the floors are gray, chemical resistant, and squeegieable! I put the second coat on this evening-I'll see how it looks tomorrow! Will

Howdy Everyone! I am looking for the switch from a Japanese/European 240Z that allowed the side markers one each side of the car to operate independantly. The working condition of the switch is not important, but its cosmetic appearance is! Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions! Will

Blackmax 150 fan by flexalite-reccommended by JTR for cooling v8 converted Zs-should be more than good enough for the straight 6 variety! Will

Hey Sblake01, "I'm sure the Datsun Engineers wouldn't have put a device on their vehicles if it didn't perform properly. " uh '73 carbs-doh! Ask any engineer if todays technology doesn't beat the technology from 30 years ago, or if they expect future changes in technology to create better solutions for the problems they solved today. On the same vien, but other side, vendors are there to sell, and can claim 10% improvement without having to prove it because the seat of most pants can't tell the difference in a weight to power ratio reduced by 8 oz per horsepower. Will

When I get ready to start the bulb replacement project, I will take before and after pictures, both in the car and on the bench. I will take them at the same settings with the same camera, at the same angle so that the differences in the leds and the bulbs will be easily seen. Will

Can I get mine extra crispy? I would rather have proof of an explosion, than be proof of an expolsion! Will

Vicky 1971? Terminal Ugly! No, Ralph Naders' evaluation of the structural defect in the attatchment of the gas tank. A rear impact could and usually did cause the car to explode! Will

Bondo, the meat and potatoes of a PO! Will

My bad, didn't pay close enough attention you your year! Still sounds exactly like an ignition module problem-easy test, loosen the mounting, rin the car until it shuts off, spray the module with component cooler from Radio Shack and try to restart-if it will there is your problem! That Pertronix system is calling....... Will

On a floating-or sinking-boat a sacrificial annode works-I can't see how it would be as effective on a car! The replacement panel is approx $120, if yours is still sound get some ospho/metalready and some POR15/Eastwood Rust encapslulator, apply elbow grease liberally, some masking, some primer, and paint, and you should be out the door for less than $75 Will

Dean, Run the car at idle, if it does the same thing, replace the ignition module on the side of your distributor. Beware of the $ attatched to this part!:stupid: Will

Check the connections on the Alternator-also check this thread, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11346&perpage=15&pagenumber=1 ,everything in it applies to you as well-I wouldn't think a vintage yellow mini-cooper with a black hood would have a strong enough battery to jump a Z! Will

2-4-T-Z-MAN, When you mentioned and detailed the bumpers, I knew I had seen and appreciated the car. Have you got any pictures to post in your gallery? Will

I think a 240Z is a beautifully designed car, and the modification to make it a convertible can be done well too, as 2-4-T-Z-MAN pointed out, a motivated person can move the world if he knows where to find the right tools, and how to use them. I think using a Datsun roadster for the missing DNA would give a healthy nudge in the right direction for suitable, period, and OEM hardware! That said, if I were to make one, it would be from a car that some DAPO had hacked up and put a sunroof in! No sense chopping up a primo specimen! Will

a high starch diet? TomoHawk, I was thinking digits, not digit numbers-must have had a case of my question 3! I stold the 1812 question from Lenno-I could not believe the number of peopley I share a species and a planet with that said 1941! Will

Thanks for the pointerwith the fumes, the car will be shiney side down when all of that happens(rotisserie!) Will

TomoHawk, the neg. battery cable attatches to the unibody, and then to the engine-it is the ground strap! Will

A Tomatoe is a member of one of my favorite food groups, the kind you throw at ricers! seriously it is a fruit! The largest 3 digit number is ZZZ! What type of plant is an avacado? What type of animal is a Plattypus? What is recto-cranial inversion? When was the war of 1812 fought? Will

1) take the Alternator to AutoZone or any place that will check it for free-it could be the root of this evil. 2) None of us could be that lucky, go throught the battery connections and fuse box with your VOM, check the resistance across each connection. (One lead on a clean area on each side of the connection-just like you checked your engine grounds-but the leads will only be 1/2" apart) When you find a connection with high resistance, take it apart, clean it, put it back together, and check it again. For there to be that much resistantance in your system, the problem is between the battery and the out bound wires at the fuse box. Will

You probably have a blocked fuel line. First I would do the obvious-check and replace the fuel filter. Remove the old one and try to blow through it-if you can keep looking. I even put pressureized air through both the return line and the feed, the return line was not blocked, but the feed line was. The next obvious place is the pickup. Under the carpet and the pad, in the hatch area floor there is a round panel with two bolts through it. Remove the two bolts, and the cover and your pickup is staring you in the face. It is a held in the tank with a bunch of bolts. Remove the hoses and disconnect the gage sender, remove the bolts and carefully remove the pickup. you may have to gently . When I took mine out it was completely clogged-even the basket type pre filter. I used two cans of Carb-cleaner, an acid brush and a length of copper wire to clean it out. First I sprayed cleaner in a container, and immersed the basket in it. After a good soak, I used the brush to gently clean the basket, the outside of the tube, and the electrical contacts. Then I went to work on the tubing, I flattened and sharpened the end if the wire, and worked it into the tube in a twisting motion, rinsing the crap that came loose out with carb cleaner It clog was not hard, but it did take a while to clear. Then I pulled pieces of a scotchbrite pad through the tube and rerinsed it thoroughly. I repalced the pickup and the car fired right up! Remember this is all being done around Gasoline-disconnect the battery, no smoking, and remember the life you save by being too careful WILL be your own! An extra 10 minutes of careful preparation could easily save a set of services, a lengthy stay in the hospital, or both! Will

Actually, I was talking about inside and outside! If both are sealed annd silenced, neither the rust of the noise will get through! Will

I am going to use POR15, and then roll-on some urethane bedliner material-impact resistant, and deadens sound! Will