Av8ferg

Cliff, I would have bought your car in a heartbeat. Looked solid. I’m curious to see what you think of this 240z. Part of me wants it to be a bad one so I don’t have to buy it. Getting it home could be a pain in the arse, and my life is pretty busy right now. But when the right car pops up, I’m going to grab it. I’d likely have to sell my 280z because my wife would kill me if I had another car. Looking forward to your findings. Rust is my biggest worry. I do t want a car that requires welding and extensive body work. Mechanical problems I can handle and have no issues there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No it has one tiny crack he says. Seller comment: “Complete dash out of a 240z. Comes with everything shown in pictures. One small crack and one small indention on the top. See pictures. “ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you have a 240z and need a dash. This looks like a nice one. Located in VA, found on FB. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was telling a guy the other day, I’d be happy to return to the days of no cell phones or internet. Life was better and we teated each other with more respect then. The internet has also become a place for cowards to troll around. It takes all my energy as a parent to keep my kids off these machines! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What do you mean? I hate FB and only look at the classifieds because it’s a good places to find stuff locally, like CL. Otherwise it’s a mind-suck. The skinny jean millennials with safe spaces are asserting their position in the world. They love FB and anything social media, we can’t win. The cat is out of the bag. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Found this on Facebook. Another Series 1 near Austin, TX. Someone go grab it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’d grab one from a salvage yard. I see them all the time when I find a Z. I’ll start grabbing them now that I know they’re so expensive. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are the parts you want to clean up badly rusted? Have you considered using a rust converter vice the time consuming process of physically removing the rust? “The first ingredient in common rust converters is tannic acid which reacts with iron oxide (rust) and chemically converts it to iron tannate, a dark-colored stable material. ... The overall chemical reaction converts rust into a stable, black protective polymeric coating that serves as an excellent primer for both oil and epoxy based paints.” If the rust is mostly surface this is a good way to good. Deep or rust thats flaking needs to be removed before using a converter. I have used rust converters on one of my other cars with success. I’ve also used it on my steel garage door 3 years ago and the rust never came back. Just giving you options. There are lots of converter products on the market. My neighbor used POR-15 on the frame of his entire classic car. Came out awesome! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did the same thing. Capped a PVC pipe and filled her up with thinner. Got the idea from someone on this forum. Worked well for me too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No title available for the car. NC makes it really really hard to title cars like this . You can’t even get it bonded unless it is road worthy and can pass a state inspection. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes. The hose on the damper side goes towards the engine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I used the same thing a Cliff. Speaker wire and alligator clips when I was troubleshooting my fuel pump problems. It worked fine. When you said you put 12V on it but it wasn’t a full 12V that’s a bit ambiguous. Probably needs to be pretty close to 12V for it to work. If your pushing 10V it might be a problem. I agree with Zed Head on making sure it is properly grounded. When my fuel pump wasn’t working, I was able to narrow it down to the ignition switch. It worked fine when connected directly to 12V but would work when turning the key. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gents, As we enjoy this Memorial Day weekend grilling burgers and sipping cold beverages with family in friends wherever you are I wanted to share the story of the sacrifice of one of my closest friends (we were friends for 18 years) who died on 14 Sep 2012 in Camp Bastion, Afghanistan. His name was LtCol Chris “Otis” Raible. He was the CO of a Marine Harrier squadron and died defending his Marines and aircraft from insurgents attacking on the fight line in Bastion. Many men and women have made similar sacrifices serving our country and without their willingness to lay down their lives for our Nation, our way of life would be far different that it is today. Take a moment, raise a glass for those sacrifices and enjoy this holiday. Here the story of the actions that happened that night in Afghanistan and a picture of my friend Otis! https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.gq.com/story/battle-of-bastion-taliban-afghanistan-air-base/amp

Dutchzcarguy, That’s some varsity work, way outside my novice ability. Pretty impressive! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dave, I agree my 280z steering wheel looks like it was left on Venus for 3 yrs. The rubber looks like it was microwaved. Bumpers...I could live with the 75’ bumpers but in 77 they almost look like clown shoes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Gents. Cliff, the purest would stick his nose up when considering mashing together a 240 and 280. Both cars have their pluses and minuses. I like the 240z styling,(bumpers, turn markers, interior like the wood and the diamond vinyl etc..). The 280z is a more defined ride, kinks were sorted in the final production years of the 280. I can only have one Z, unlike you, so I need to make it the car the best of both. So my plan is to only change things that with minimal effort can be reversed. I’ll put a front air dam on with 240 marker lights and 240z bumpers. I’m going to do a custom interior vinyl like “Home Built by Jeff” did. While the car will be custom it won’t be over the top. Only the enthusiast and Z lover will know the changes. Average car guy won’t have a clue.

Still needs one more coat of poly and a wet sand but here’s the before and after pics. I’m pretty happy with the outcome. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, first coat of Poly on and I’m glad I didn’t stain it. The poly brought out the natural color nicely. I’ll let it dry a couple days, wet sand it smooth and put another coat of poly on. So my advice so far for people looking at this thread in the future. Don’t stain it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good point JFA. Change of plans. Going to just put to poly on and see what happens, I can always sand it off if it looks bad. She looks pretty good now with the wheel prepped. Check it out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, you’re probably right. I’m not sure I’m a fan that. I have three steering wheels. This will be my test case. Interesting, the nicest one I have had a leather wrap on it when I bought it from a guy in Montana that owned the car for a decade. The wrapped looked like it was from the 70’s. Under it was pretty dark so I’m doubtful it was ever refinished. They may have changed the colors as the production progressed. Here a pic of that wheel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Going for Red Sedona [emoji2369] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The sales rep just tested a can of minwax Red Mahogany in a wood stickz It was SUPER dark brownish. Gonna try something else Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What color stain did you use for that. I like the reddish tint. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Interesting, I got a light gun stock stain but now reconsidering using it after your comment. Maybe I’ll test a small area first with plain polyurethane. After sanding the resin wheel portion it had a nice light straw look and when I rinsed it off it got surprisingly dark while moist. Maybe the polyurethane will act the same but with a shine. Will post my results later today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Metal bars came out pretty good. Gonna let the paint cure for 24hrs and then start on the wood. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk