Av8ferg

That’s a dangerous thought! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here are some pics of my heater core. I’ve email two companies that rebuild them and sent them pictures to get a quote, the heater control valve is another story, anyone know what this copper wire that attached to it? I’m guess it’s some sort of sensor to send to the valve to open and close and it looks difficult to remove. What happens if just remove the valance all together, does that mean you get either full hot or no heat? I’m not sure if my valve is functioning, repairable or just trash? It looks pretty rough.

Here’s the bin of plated parts

That Is very kind of you and I’m happy to accept. Let me know what you want in return. I can pay you or give you some extra parts you might need. I’ve acquired quite a collection and won’t be using much of it. I have an extra freshly plated hood latch as well as a bin of freshly plated parts I won’t be using. They had a base rate so I threw in extra parts on my last plating order. Thanks again !!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cliff, everything is pretty much toast. Finally got the heater core out….it looks shot too. Now I have to find one and from the looks of it I won’t be a stock heater core. I saw the Captain Obvious used a alternative core from an Escort . I might have to do something like that. I’ll have to pick his brain. Pain….every time I cross one hurdle I get two more thrown at me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My latest struggle…removing the the heater core OMG is this an PITA. Any words of wisdom? So far disassembly is a guessing game, just removing screws and trying to get access to this thing. I’m sure it won’t be easy to find a replacement either. Here’s where I’m at! The good news is my fuel tank restoration is complete. Should be here in a few days. Will report the how it came out for others needing this done once I get eyes on it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cliff, once again you saved me a bunch of time. I just ordered those bulbs for the gauges. So much work….so little time.

With the dash out, I really can’t see where the leak is coming from. The more I take apart the more I fear I won’t be able to put in back because it could be weeks I before this dash goes back in. I guess now is the time to get new bulbs and clean up the gauges. Is the general consensus to go LED so you don’t need night vision goggles to read the gauges. I have like 5 simultaneous projects going on at the same time on this car….. not by choice. Anyone out there have a 77-78 volt/fuel guage laying around? Minnie looks pretty rough, and the display for the volts is rusted.

View Advert 77-78 Fuel / Voltage Guage I’m looking for a working 1977-1978 Fuel /Voltage guage. Mine functions but there is rust on the face of the volt guage and I’d like a nicer once for my car. Advertiser Av8ferg Date 01/11/2022 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1977 Model 280z

Good idea. I got the dash out. Wasn’t that bad. As I began to take out the bolts it became apparent that someone has removed it before. Several screws missing was the tell tale sign. Now my that it’s out I’m sure I’ll find all sorts of goodies to fix. The accordion vent hoses all pretty mush disintegrated at the slightest movement. I’ll have to add those to the list. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I really didn’t want to do this yet but I might as well jump in and try and remove this dash. This problem will not fix itself and I cannot proceed with carpet and interior work until this is behind me. Everything with this car is two steps forward followed by one back. By the time I’m done I should have worked all the gremlins out of this car. Today’s mission was electrical. I have lots of stuff that doesn’t work. Some interior/dash lights, turn signals, ignition buzzer, reverse light, e-brake light and others. Fuses all look good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s what I was worried about. Does the whole dash need to come out or can you get to it behind the center vent piece. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, thank have another problem. When I pulled off the transmission tunnel vinyl off that I recently made I found a green liquid on the back side. I can only assume this is radiator fluid. Anyone that has seen behind the dash might be able to steer me to where to begin my investigation. You should be able to see the wet area in the second pic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got a day to work on the Z today. Trying to get the interior squared away…..long time coming. I’ve been putting in sound proofing. Also cut and fit the vinyl for wall behind seats. I like it! It’s not sitting flat yet because it isn’t glued yet. Side note, I went to my local grocery store yesterday and a S30 turned in right before me. I was like….what!!!! I followed the guy and we ending up having a 30 min conversation in the parking lot. He has a 77 280z and is the original owner. He’s also a pilot and been retire for some time. I then find out he lives in my same small town less that 3 miles away. He said he got a treasure trove of parts. 3 engines, transmissions…on and on. Here is a pic of his car I took yesterday. His name was Bernie Culp(said he’s been a a ZCON a few years back). ….nice guy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got a day to work on the Z today. Trying to get the interior squared away…..long time coming. I’ve been putting in sound proofing. Also cut and fit the vinyl for wall behind seats. I like it! It’s not sitting flat yet because it isn’t glued yet. Side note, I went to my local grocery store yesterday and a S30 turned in right before me. I was like….what!!!! I followed the guy and we ending up having a 30 min conversation in the parking lot. He has a 77 280z and is the original owner. He’s also a pilot and been retire for some time. I then find out he lives in my same small town less that 3 miles away. He said he got a treasure trove of parts. 3 engines, transmissions…on and on. Here is a pic of his car I took yesterday. His name was Bernie Culp(said he’s been a a ZCON a few years back). ….nice guy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jeff, you make a good point about the space you get under the raised deck. Lots of places to store, misc items and/or spare parts incase you break down on a trip. I am buying an amp too so it’s probably a good place to put it as well. I’ll continue to think about this and let you see the end results when I get it done. I should make a lot of progress on this interior this week. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here is the cable I had to fix from a PO’s splices and snips that goes to the radio I wound each portion into separate bundles and wrapped them in a fabric wire wrap and labeled each bundle and connector. I did this so if I ever have to go back and fix a problem it will be easy to ID where in need to look. Shout out to wayne280z in the upper bleachers who created the color wiring diagram. This made it so much easier. What a great resource: Thanks Wayne. Picked up two other donor sections that connect C7 and C8 blocks to the center counsel (radio, hazard, defog, ash tray lights. Power antenna etc… here are pics of the bundles I got at the yard and the one I refurbished. Here is the radio I got too. It changes display colors to match the green lights in the dash.

Thanks for this link Cliff. Your role as the forum librarian is unsurpassed. It looks like those 5.25” speakers on the kick panel shouldn’t interfere with my clutch foot. I also like the back 6x9 box he did. I think I’ll do this but it’s going to require the sloped deck delete. My interior is on a hold because I have to weld those 3 floor patches on the passenger side. Can’t take it to the welder until my fuel tank is back. On the tank $425 with a lifetime guarantee from the Renu place in Greensburg,PA. Guy totally knows these tanks and has done many Z cars So it won’t be back for about 10 days. FYI, I found a 77 tank at a yard yesterday, already removed. It’s not rusted much, outside is perfect. Anyone looking for a 77 tank, let me know this is a great candidate. In the meantime I’m doing electrical work which is why I started thinking about the stereo stuff. I want to get all the wires in place before I glue to rugs down. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I bought the exact same speakers and installed them as well. I’m still deciding on how I’m going to run this stereo system. I like my music and have been spoiled in my wife’s car. That is the nicest stereo I’ve even heard in a car in my life. It’s amazing. So I bought a new head unit while on a trip to Phoenix (Kenwood Execelon) I’m not going for original on the stereo because I don’t have one and can’t get one for a reasonable price. I’m deciding on my speaker configuration. I have the sloped rear deck so it complicates things and I don’t want to cut into my nice door cards. MSA sells a front speaker kit that attaches to the kick panels. I’m worried it might interfere with my foot. I also don’t really want to put them in the tool compartments on the rear deck facing up. I’m really making eliminating my options. If I convert the rear deck to flat I can put speakers on the back near the lights. I know most guys on here want the stock stereo system but I can’t roll like that, i can’t drive a long distance and listen to one speaker like I’m in a tin can. I also want to be able to stream my Spotify music. It requires abandoning the 1977 configuration. You can shame me at ZCON.

I loaded the I think what was called the Oregon Trail game on my Commodore 64 via cassette tape. Tape data transfer worked maybe 50% of the time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had a terrible time getting my drums off when I redid my brakes. After looking for a large puller hi and low on both line an locally I decided to devise my one and it worked perfectly. Had the drums off in under 10 mins. I bought two large c-clamps at Lowes and placed a 2x2 wooded board between them with a large socket taped to the middle that would pass through the drum. Here’s a pic, way better than beating the drums and breaking a cooling fin off. The only trick is to the turn each c-clamp a small amount and in sequence with the other one or the device will pope off due to becoming uneven. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had a terrible time getting my drums off when I redid my brakes. After looking for a large puller hi and low on both line an locally I decided to devise my one and it worked perfectly. Had the drums off in under 10 mins. I bought two large c-clamps at Lowes and placed a 2x2 wooded board between them with a large socket taped to the middle that would pass through the drum. Here’s a pic, way better than beating the drums and breaking a cooling fin off. The only trick is to the turn each c-clamp a small amount and in sequence with the other one or the device will pope off due to becoming uneven. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Darn, didn’t take a pic. Should have! I called and spoke to the shop, told him my problem, he was familiar with tank and said there basically isn’t anything they can’t fix. Seemed very confident his shops capabilities. Instilled confidence for me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hope you all had a Merry Christmas. I got home from Europe on Christmas Eve. Painful 2 weeks over there, they extended me 3 days due to the excessive cargo needed to be moved. I pulled my tank yesterday and boxed it up. How this isn’t another fail!! FedEx Express….the only way to fly my personal stuff!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Doesn’t look like. 2400 valve cover but can’t really tell.