mdbrandy

Plus, if you have a spyware blocker, that page apparently refuses to load after the spyware is blocked...

Yes, they sell all the time. I bought a set of illuminas with springs for my 280Z some months back from them for a great price too. Came quickly, and seem to be fine. Almost ready for them to go on the car now!

Gas prices here in Central IL have been on drugs lately. Up 20 cents, down 10 cents, up 20 cents, down 15 cents...seems to be tied to home basketball games a bit...Go ILLINI! Yesterday prices went from $1.92 up to $2.09 (home game last night). Today they are back down to $1.97. As low as $1.79 a few weeks ago.

I've seen that add twice over the past few months. I'm always surprized when it shows up, so I've never been able to pay enough attention to get any details on the cars!

Factory headers? If you mean the cast iron factory exhaust manifold, then yes. Otherwise, I'm out of my element. My 240Z had headers on it when I got it, and the PO had dispensed with the entire air injection system and exhaust manifold. I have subsequently bought all the parts needed to reinstall it when I get to that time. I actually found an NOS, brand new air gallery on e-bay, and got a new check valve and the big hose from Midwest Z before they disappeared. Anyway, I've seen headers advertised with and without emissions fittings, and I assume 240Z headers with emissions fittings would be for the air injection gallery, but I have no personal experience there.

The air injection system is part of the emissions control system on the carburated Z's. It injects fresh air into the exhaust manifold to help lower emissions. It is not a performance enhancer, but except for a small drag for running the air pump, it doesn't hurt either. And it does help keep our air clean. And you need more than just the pump and AB valve. you need an intact air gallery (tubes connected to the exhaust manifold), a check valve into the gallery, a "T" connector and several short hoses, as well as a large hoses from pump to check valve. Oh, and the hose from AB valve to intake manifold. I think that's it. I'm doing this from memory... So, if you're restoring it, or like clean air, put the system back! But look into what parts you need before you start. Some are NLA new. My 2 cents.

All of a sudden I can't watch them either on my WinXP machine. All of kats video files now show in Windows Media player in reverse color video! All other videos that I tried are fine. kats, what codec did you use for these? I have just updated my video card driver, and I could watch the videos fine up until this last batch, so it's my machine that is the problem, but I have to figure it out!

In November of 1969 when my 240Z was made (a month after these videos, from what I understand), I was almost 9 years old. Knew nothing about cars except my matchboxes and slot-car racers. It would be another 8 years before I got my first Z! (which was a 1971 series 1 240Z, but I didn't know anything about it then, except it was really cool!). Thanks for the videos, kats, they are great!

Cheap is not always good, though. I've heard both good and bad concerning some of the cheaper units. Does yours include all the gas hookups too? That'll cost extra if not. Add a cart, helmet, MIG pliers, gloves, tank of gas, etc., and you can easily spent $600-$700. And you can also cut corners, buy the cheapest stuff you can, and probably get by and maybe do fine. I paid $400 for my Lincoln with the gas kit, but then all the other stuff undoubtedly added another $200. And I'm confident that I know where to get parts, consumables, etc. for it at several places in town.

I bought a Lincoln SP135 about a year ago, and have done just a little bit of minor work on #215 with it, as well as a little practice on junk. Didn't have the confidence to go too much farther. Luckily, I found an 'adult education' welding class with 12 sessions of 3 hours each for $180 total! Spent 3 hours last night stick welding flat beads. Real ugly when I started, and pretty good (instructor's assessment - not mine!) by the end. Another 6 weeks of stick welding, and I'll do some MIG since that's what I really need, and maybe try a little TIG just so I have done it once. By summer, I ought to be confident enough to try the Z again! Bottom line is, no shop in my area would touch the rust work on my Z (floors, frame, rockers), so being able to weld....priceless!

Where do you get this stuff! Do you own that, or just have the picture?

The picture I posted above of the ducted backing plate shows the vented hat rotor still on #215.

Here's that ducted brake backing plate. I couldn't edit/attach it to my last post. Hmm. Looks like it was too big, but didn't give me an error message telling me that...

And how about a "rounded" choke handle?

How about the engine bay fresh air vents. The earliest ones have a metal flange holding them in, while after that, they went to a metal tab. http://zhome.com/Classic/Restore/FreshAirIntake.htm I still have one of the early ones from #215, but I'm still looking for the drivers side... And if the car has the "ducted" front disc backing plates, I need the passenger side one of those too...

Excellent stuff! Thanks kats! Are these clips from a longer video? If so, how long is the original?

When you take your foot off the accelerator pedal, and the throttle butterflys slam shut, apparently there is a slug of very rich mixture that will then pass through the combustion chamber without burning. As it exits into the exhaust manifold, the air injection system on the carburated cars shoots fresh, cold air into this rich, hot mixture, and it combusts right there in the exhaust manifold - a backfire. The anti-backfire valve apparently "gulps" a slug of fresh air into the intake manifold to mix with that rich mixture, so it will combust in the combustion chamber, and then not in the exhaust manifold. At least that's how I now understand it.

Well that's good! At least I seemingly have two used correct ones. The angle of the vacuum line on the new one is wrong, though. It is parallel to the other inlet/outlet ports instead of angled out. As I noted, the casting is totally different - all one, cheap piece. The older ones are much heavier castings, and the inlet/outlet ports seem to be pressed in, and not integral.

I'm disappointed, dude! I spent ALL that time writing up the answer above!

280Z's don't, of course have one... . From an old manual I have: Service Manual, Emmision Control System 1970-1971, Nissan Also, from another manual: Service Manual, Emission Control System and Safety Device, Nissan (no date) So this is why you sometimes hear it called a "gulp valve" too. Hope this info is useful to someone. I've been learning stuff...

Well, I'm kind of late responding to this thread, but why not . My '70 had no air injection system when I got it, so I've been collecting stuff to rebuild it. In the attached pic, are three valves that I now have. The one on the left, supposedly part 14835-U6700, I paid $10 on e-bay for. It is actually stamped as a Nissan part, but I can't yet say for what . It is the cheapest looking part, with a one-piece cast body. The one in the middle I got from Bob Zola. He indicated it was from/off of a series I 240Z. Not necessarily a '70, though. The one on the right was a freebie I got when I bought a set of 3-screw SU's on the cheap (just wanted to see what was different from my 4-screws). With the carbs, I got the entire manifold, linkage, injection parts, some (ratty) braided hoses, etc. Since they were 3-screw carbs, I assume they are from a later240Z. But, the middle and right valves are essentially identical. That's all I know so far...

Interesting. Mine is an 11/69 1970 car, so it's strange that it would be closer (apparently) to your 1973 car than the 1972 one. Do you know how your 1970 is configured? My quarter panel doesn't have a vent under the emblem, so even if it had been replaced in the past, it was replaced with an early quarter panel without the vent. Would the quarter panel even have gone as far as that hatch lip anyway? Hmmm....

Don't know if this will help, but my 240Z had/has the exact same problem. The attached picture is of the left side of the hatch, where the welded-on bracket SHOULD be. I have obtained a replacement from a parts car, and will weld it back on when I get to that point in the restoration. The two holes in the rail appear to correspond to two broken spot welds on the replacement that I have. I have no idea why the holes are so uniform. It doesn't look like the bracket broke off originally - it looks like someone drilled the spot welds. POs. You can't trust 'em! :bandit:

And I'm 44 in 10 hours! My 11/69 240Z was born as I was getting ready for my 8th christmas, but my 5/78 280Z came in as I was one year from graduating from High School. I got my first Z, a 1971 240Z when I was 17 (just about as my current 280 was being born!), and then a 1975 280Z during college when I was about 21. Seems so long ago!

Hmm. Well, I don't hear any "OMG-don't do that-you'll die!" sort of problems. If I'm whacking the heck out of the oil pan, then I have some big problems already (I don't intend to be an off-roader ). Getting all of the coating off the inside of the pan would be next to impossible, wouldn't it? All those hidden areas, and the plate covering a bit of the sump area would make it very difficult to clean off. Thanks for the thoughts/advice. The engine has 125K on it right now, but is running strong. Probably rebuild it in a few years anyway, just for fun...