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duffymahoney

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Everything posted by duffymahoney

  1. PCV question. This isn’t a debate about the need for a PCV vs a catch can. I want true postive vent. I decided I want to use my exhaust to pull the fumes out, to keep the dirty fumes out of my intake. But since I have Fujitsubo. I have true dual exhaust. Is plumbing to one good enough? Should I still use the stock check valve? I would guess it holds back a tiny bit of pressure before popping open? My plan was to weld this bung at a 45 just past my o2 bungs on my exhaust. With the stock check valve in line.
  2. Well the 80s bmw iac is awesome, smaller and nice looking. Let’s no air or minimal amount by when physically closed Now to find out what pin is positive.
  3. I don’t care if you sell it. I’m now using a small trash can with the pump in it and I have the pressure out line split recirculating.
  4. They will regret selling that cabinet. It’s a giant pile of trash.
  5. E31 is back from final surfacing! Vapor blasting it was tedious. But results are awesome.
  6. Well this bosch and all bosch IACs of this style let a ton of air by when closed. Bosch said roughly 30-35%. Which makes the butterflys useless at idle. My next iac will be a ford. Which closes all the way and only lets a tiny bit of air by.
  7. Fully wired. I was able to use the coil wiring and leave original wires intact for my dpo negative trigger and positive.
  8. Very true, but it skews the data massively.
  9. Amount infected is such a bull**** number, they won't even test here unless you have over a 101 fever and have shortness of breath/ trouble breathing.
  10. My restaurant will most likely close tomorrow. I’m terrified:)
  11. Well ITB with IAC and PCV is all in and plumbed. Only thing left is 2 wires and some software changes. Pretty happy with how it all turned out.
  12. I live in the middle of nowhere / paradise:) 3/8 NPT is in. Next is pcv. The 3/8 was stressful
  13. My decision on iac location. I can use the stock 12v + from the coil and also the coil negative wiring for the iac connected to my haltech. So wiring will stay the same.
  14. I got pretty far on the intake. I figured out my basic plan. I also tig welded the old holes and drilled and tapped new ones. So they are centered better. I tapped all existing holes for npt plugs. I also drilled each runner to 9mm. I bought a bspt 1/4 for the stock pcv fitting. Also a 5/8 hose Barb by 3/8 npt brass for the iac. I also had my stacks turned down to fit some cheap filters. Brass or no brass?
  15. ITB with IAC and pcv here I come. Which mount looks better. Stock coil mount or the rubber one? Rubber one looks lower profile.
  16. I’m not going to rattle can my new stroker block. So I need a color code off something. The alternator bracket seemed like the best choice for still have original paint and be something I can easily take off. I found another that was plated to replace it. This is the last grimy thing on my original motor. I will have a ppg shop scan it next week. It’s darker blue then I would have guessed.
  17. Iac balance bar is looking good. Next is having it cut.
  18. Stroker Diesel crank is back from marine crankshaft! Offset ground to 84.6mm Toyota rod ends 1.8896” Ground main journals to -020” Dynamic balance Ion plasma nitride, straighten and micro polished.
  19. Diesel Stroker crank. Extra offset ground for toyota rods. I will have full details tomorrow. I had the work done at marine crank.
  20. He is a Z enthusiast. Plus a racer, plus a engine builder, plus hobby guy. Super nice.
  21. Starting cam mock up. I’m using the bonk .535 cam.

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