ryanotown22

Just some notes from my install this weekend. I purchased a JVC kd-x255bt I purchased it from amazon but they are sold many places. Because it does not have a CD player it’s almost half the length of a regular head unit it seems http:// https://www.bestbuy.com/site/jvc-in-dash-digital-media-receiver-built-in-bluetooth-with-detachable-faceplate-black/6191304.p?skuId=6191304 It does not have a CD player only digital media and AM/FM. It also charges my iPhone at 1.5amps. It has Bluetooth and I can stream pandora/iHeartRadio right from my phone wirelessly. Anyway here are my wiring notes From Car blue white wire attached to cigarette lighter to the stereo yellow:constant power always 12v for radio memory From Car blue wire on oem radio harness to stereo red wire is the ignition switched power 12v when key turned allows unit to turn on From Car green/white wire on oem radio harness to stereo orange/white wire for radio illumination when headlights are turned on New stereo black wire to ground point Install was pretty straight forward, since I have a new center console I had to trim some plastic out in order to slide the radio in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for searching there is almost no info out there about these. Kinda interesting looking that’s for sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok I think I found them from a company called “Golden Wheel” not much coming up on them though Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Anyone ever seen these before? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Keeping on monitoring battery levels drop seems to be leveling out. So maybe it is just getting back to 12.66. Looks like I will be purchasing a new alternator. Shut car off 13.42 10:35am 13.16 10:54am 12.95 11:42am 12.89 11:58am 12.84 12:20pm 12.76 1:38pm 12.75 2:58pm 12.75 4:38pm Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The alternator is a rock auto bought it in March 2017 ACDELCO 3341558 (334-1558@A23) Looks like it’s only a 24 month warranty darn! I just did a parasitic draw test (I hope correctly) by unhooking the negative battery cable and connecting one volt meter lead to the negative post and the other lead to the negative battery cable and I set my volt meter to dca 10amp and I got a reading of between 0.01 and 0.02 so I think that means there is no drain going on Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My belt looks fine and is less than a year old I went out and got timings There are no accessories on other than the parking brake light on the speedo guage, AEM afr gauge, and the stock clock when I start the car. The clock obviously is always on. 13.5 just off trickle charger 12.92 7:22am 12.83 7:59am 12.75 8:47am 12.72 9:26am 12.71 10:24am Started car and stabilized to 800rpm 13.44 10:26am 13.51 10.27am 13.52 10:28am 13.52 10:30am 13.50 10:31am 13.49 10:32am 13.48 10:33am 13.46 10:33am 13.45 10:34 am Shut car off and leaving off trickle charger for now 13.42 10:35am 13.16 10:54am 12.95 11:42am 12.89 11:58am I noticed if I give it throttle above 800rpm the voltage does increase but the steady decrease is worrisome I think. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any ideas? How do I tell if it’s my battery or my alternator or belt? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your all wrong the right lever deploys the high speed deployment parachute that was only on series 1 240z. The reason the very first cars had this is they were not brought over by ship they were air dropped right to the designated dealers lots this saved a lot of time and import taxes at the ports. After the cars landed the pilots usually flew back to japan for the next round of shipments. Unfortunately for the pilots datsun phased this out. Some dealers left this in the car even after being instructed to remove it. Dealers often referred to these highly secretive deployment cars as series Zero 240z due to the use of retired Japanese WWII pilots. In order to get even weight distribution with the parachutes Datsun added many attachment points As seen Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They are 15” and are not steel and I am guessing there used to be a center cap of some sort Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I noticed lately when I start my car it seems like it takes a bit for the RPMs to stabilize and is down to around 500 rpm and my voltage gauge fluctuates a lot when i first start it. so I give it some gas to keep it going until it’s more warmed up. During these first few minutes my lights are also dimmer until I get it up to around 800+ rpm. Also when I turn on the headlights I get a noise coming from the alternator that used to not be there. Do you think it’s time for a new alternator? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Make sure the positive and negative are correct and tight. Also if you are in the car trying to listen for it you might just not be hearing it some are pretty quiet. I hooked my battery direct to mine to verify You should be getting very close to full battery power at the pump. Test at the battery to verify it’s voltage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Yes all that you listed will work with fuel injection Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can you put one on your clutch slave? I don’t have friends Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk