ryanotown22

Ok no problem let me know when your back there Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

New pin arrived today in the mail it’s copper color unlike the one I took out that was silver but it fits perfect no play at all between the arm and the rod. I also was able to straighten out the rod pretty easily. Now I am just waiting on my o rings from courtesynissan to ship before I can put it together again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes rotella. I know a lot of people that run that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any chance the 280z has the engine bay light or the radiator overflow tank or steering column clamshell? I need any of those. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rotol T4 15w-40 wish that was tested Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Everything looks good the rod is a little bent from all my hammering but nothing I can’t straighten. The little arm where the bolt goes through does have a little damage from the drill but it’s not on the rod side so I don’t think it will affect use. I have another bolt arriving Tuesday so I will know then. The slot on the rod where the bolt locks into is also fine Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well it’s not my proudest moment but it’s out took a 90 degree drill and lots of bits Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I haven’t tried the double nut idea yet. I am in AZ and dealing with a 120 degree garage so I only work for a little bit in the morning. Do you think once I get it out if replacing it with a regular bolt would be ok? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This on on the same list with removing spindle pins as a headache.. you would think there would be a better design.. of course the fsm just says remove striking arm bolt.. I am surprised it doesn’t show a finger just pushing it out. I am giving in and going to try and take it somewhere. At least on the later 5speeds you have a way to get to it via the reverse lockout hole in the case. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tried the steel bar method and hitting it with a 5# hammer still not budging going to try the freeze method next after I pick up some dust off Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope not budging tried heat also. I wonder what the official tool/method was. It seems a tool like a bike chain pin remover would be great but those are too small. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok yeah I just beat it off the dowel pins with a rubber mallet now onto second problem. How do I get this bolt out so I can remove the striking rod? I saw in your video the transmission has a port and you could just knock it out. Looks like the 77-78 does not have that port so there is almost no room in there Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I Removed the 8 12mm bolts from the tail housing, I also removed the little pin with the c clip. What do I have to do next to separate the tail section? The striker arm now moves out about an inch or 2 inches. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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There is a lot of what the carp going on in that bay Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk