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7tooZ

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Posts posted by 7tooZ

  1. 4 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

    I would not use a 0.4 ohm coil unless you are keeping the ballast resistor. I wouldn't go below 1 ohm unless you are keeping the ballast resistor.

    I was suggesting the 3 ohm down to 1 ohm since it sounded like @7tooZwas planning on jumpering out the resistor. Using a 0.6 ohm coil with no resistor would mean about 20A current through a 14 gauge wire.

    Good advise thanks. FYI i have been using the XR3000 for quite awhile  10+ yrs without the resister. The process of illumination lead me to maybe the Coil so Ill replace it and make no other changes and seen if it shows up again. The 1.5 ohm will ne here Saturday, 

  2. 19 hours ago, SteveJ said:

    I was worried about the tach performance with a 1 ohm coil. This morning I installed a Pertronix with a 1 ohm coil into a car and bypassed the ballast. The tachometer appeared to be functioning correctly.

    @7tooZ - You could go with a Pertronix 1.5 ohm coil (40011 or 40111) or MSD 82023 coil. It looks like you can bypass the ballast resistor with no ill effects, too.

    I have a PerTronix 40611 arriving today. Drove the car yesterday on two 10 mile trips with no issues. Are you suggesting the 1.5 ohm would be preferred over 3 ohm?

  3. 4 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

    Many coils are oil filled for the heat dissipation media. You may see residue around the center post of the coil. Some auto manufacturers did vertical mounting of the coil to reduce the chance of losing the oil. However, the oil will break down as it ages, providing less heat removal.

    Think pickup a new one just to be sure. I see Fireball must not be producing them any more. Any suggestions?

  4. 1 hour ago, SteveJ said:

    The coil is a step-up transformer. It is composed primarily of wire, insulation, and material to help dissipate heat. If the insulation breaks down, you would see a weaker spark or no spark.

    Are you having a problem with your car? If so describe when it started and under what conditions.

    @SteveJ thanks for your reply. 

    Yesterday I was a returning home, a 30 mile drive at freeway speeds 70-75. Stopped for gas, fill-up tank, started up and headed the 2 mi home. About 3 blks from home it simply died. Turned over but wouldnt start. By the time i went back to get it (couple hours +/-) it started and ran rough (like the plugs were fouled) for 10-15 sec and then was fine. Your rely kind of fit my thoughts of "heat related". That coil could be 15+ years old.

  5. 1 hour ago, SteveJ said:

    The coil is a step-up transformer. It is composed primarily of wire, insulation, and material to help dissipate heat. If the insulation breaks down, you would see a weaker spark or no spark.

    Are you having a problem with your car? If so describe when it started and under what conditions.

    @SteveJ thanks for your reply. 

    Yesterday I was a returning home a 30 mile drive at freeway speeds 70-75. Stopped for gas, fillup tank, started up and headed the 2 mi home. About 3 blks from home it simply died. Turned over but wouldnt start. By the time i went bank to get it couple hours +/- started and ran rough (like the plugs were fouled) for 10-15 sec and then was fine. Your rely kind of fit my thoughts of "heat related". That coil could be 15

  6. I have agree with @dutchzcarguy some. I recently was helping a local owner he drove my car then said wish mine ran this well. I drove his it just seem sluggish. I had him do a valve adjustment and he discovered that he had low compression on two cylinders. So he pulled the head and found the head had a crack and bent valves. They were not closing all the way. 
    So if you haven’t, test compression, adjust the valves, test compression again if needed, check distributor ignition system, check timing, check for plugged filter, check for vacuum leaks, check fuel pressure, unhook all of the throttle linkage. Make sure is opening al the way. No binding or stops. Once you are at this point I would mail those carbs to Ztherapy. 
    I know it frustrating, but you will find the problem. Them you will love that car.  

    • Like 1
  7. New MOMO steering wheel “SOLD”


    Recently I have been experimenting with different style steering wheels This I’d a MOMO Prototipo which I purchased a couple months ago. As much as I like this one I didn’t think it fit the current version of my Z. I have moved on to Wood Nardi wheel. This has been mounted and removed a couple of time. Leather wrap is in new condition. 


    • Advertiser
      7tooZ
    • Date
      04/25/2021
    • Price
      $175.00
    • Category

     

  8. 10 hours ago, Jughead said:

    When I spray in on the carb bodies near the shafts it decreases the RPM by a few hundred RPM.

    This sounds like an issue I experienced last summer. It was a vacuum leak at the throttle shaft on my rear carb. The shaft seal was compromised (leaking). At the standard 2.5 turns down and a hot engine it wouldn’t idle and back fired when off the throttle at speed. Seemed to run better at 2500 rpm and above. 
    my solution was to send my carbs them back to ZT after 20 years who replaced the shaft bearings, throttle shafts and seals. They replaced  and adjusted the floats. Came back in a week and All I had to do was bolt them on. Best $$$ I have spent since buying them in 2001. 

  9. 19 hours ago, Jughead said:

    What exactly is the Starter fluid test?  What's the procedure and how do you do it, and how do you interpret results?  I'm having a helluva time tuning my carbs.  I sprayed starter fluid on throttle shaft bushings today and it affected idle negatively.  I did both carbs individually and got similar results.  What does this indicated?  THANKS!!

    In my case my car was running fine at higher RPM (3000+) but would backfire (POP) on compression, That is because it was leaning out off throttle. At idle my car reacted just as yours did when starting fluid was sprayed near the rear carb butter fly shaft. If i plugged the hole (pressed my finger over it)  for the shaft the idle smoothed out immediately. Once I remove the carb i could see that the silver cap was missing. Bruce at Z therapy told me that I probably had a backfire that blew out the seal.  So off to Ztheray they went. Came back beautiful, adjusted and all I did was bolt them on. Problem solved. No backfires and no lean out at low RPM.

    Would you like a photo of where the shaft cover is. I am not sure is the OEM carbs have the cap. Ztherapy opens up where the shaft sits so they can install roller bearings and seals. Stock carbs have brass (?) bushings.

  10. I have a crane coil that I purchased at the same time. Is there any indication of what yours is? Doesn’t look stock so I would think you should be good to use it again. This system sEnds an improved spark so a good set of plug wires is always good.  
    if you had the oil pump off make sure you get it back to 11:20 at TDC.  With the rotor on #1 you can move the sensor until the red light comes on. If you have moved it try it first. 
     

    let me know if you want photos. 
    don

  11. JDM Comp Steering wheel set


    Like new. Used to mockup interior. Only mounted once.

    PRODUCT INFORMATION:

    • Part number: 40-J4285+ 40-J4235/40-J4240/40-NS201
    • Make/model: Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 510 Nissan Skyline and more

    DESCRIPTIONS:

    The competition steering wheel was a factory option offered by Nissan back in the 70's, and one of the most popular. This limited replica is made from the original production molds. These are not leather-wrapped like the first generation wheels; rather, they are the more common and popular urethane type.

    • Bolt-on installation. No adapters required
    • Measures 13 3/4" (Stock wheel measures 14 7/8")
    • Horn switch comes pre-installed on all variants
    • For LHD cars, you'll need to bend down the turn light stalk a bit to get by your hands
    • 40-NS250 - Recommended adapter for installing in Skyline cars. This will allow the turn light stalk to return properly (sold separately)
    • 40-J4285 - $299
      • Steering wheel only
      • Stock 260Z / 280Z / 510 type horn pad will not fit!
    • 40-J4285+40-J4240 - $399
      • US-type "Datsun" logo horn pad included
    • 40-J4285+40-J4235 - $399
      • JDM-type "Z" logo horn pad included
    • 40-J4285+40-JS201 - $399
      • Skyline Hakosuka/Kenmeri horn pad included
    • Complete list of compatible vehicles:
      • Skyline Hakosuka GC10KGC10PGC10/Skyline Kenmeri GC110/ Skyline Yonmeri/Skyline Japan GC210 Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z / Fairlady Z S30 S31 / Datsun 280 ZX / Fairlady 280Z S130 Roadster SR Fairlady SR311 Laurel HC130KHC130/KHC230KHC231HC231 Datsun 510 Blue bird SSS / P510KP510VP510
    • Caution: There are small rough spots on the rear surface of the wheel. These are from the vacuum injection process and are present even on genuine Nissan examples. 
      • Since it is completely normal for this item, we cannot accept any returns of this item citing this issue

    • Advertiser
      7tooZ
    • Date
      01/12/2021
    • Price
      $250.00
    • Category

     

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