datfreak

I only just put electric ignition on my 260z today...(It was points) Basicly I used a 2.4l dizzy(off a 80's skyline) and a "procomp" ignition box- it converts the magnetic pulse from the dizzy to a signal that works the coil and a new epoxy type coil. It works great ie starts easier, revs quicker, nice steady idle.. BUT.. the tacho works ok at idle BUT at around 3500-4000 it goes nuts and jumps around -jump to 2000 and flicks around everywhere. It used to work with the points setup. I read some where that a 280z tacho would work BUT I'am in Australia and no 280zs here! any ideas??

Does rebello have a website ? or a email address?

I'am very impressed by how clean the metal is in the photos- what did you use to get all the sound deadner off????? I'am spraying my floor(inside car) with "cold gal", which paints on a layer of zinc over the bare metal/surface rust(thats previously been treated with rust converter)-then I was going to paint it with sound deadner. Fingers crossed it with keep the rust away!

Has anyone used 2" jag sus on their L28's? Any details would be so helpful..

I've never been a fan BUT I've been looking at alfadogs 240k coupe pics and well hey, I think its pretty cool.. Do they have a following like Z cars? Anyone know what they are worth? I used to have a 240k 4 door, but it was only a paddock tree basher.....but it was very strong Any opinions???

I'am cleaning up my n42 head, smoothing out the casting marks in the runners and the valve bowl. Has any one else done their own porting? any tips would be great... and any pics would be ecen better!

I've read the Australia Z car clubs DYNO nite with different Z cars with the different setups.*very interesting* Have many people had there Z car dynoed OR taken it to the strip? If so can you please list your different mods, stuff like Heads ie:which head,how much porting(details),valve seats(3 angle etc),polished?-compression etc Cam:how big? lift? brand? details on cam timing(verier wheel?) Carbs(or injection):details of jets/needles /ported manifold? exhaust: size/press bends/mandrell? ignition:type/which dizzy/total advance etc?(sparkplugs etc?) Pistons: Std/flattop aftermarket,oversize Other info:stroker cranks/turbos(boost/size of turbo etc) and of course how the car drives! What Hp did the dyno get(what type of dyno)? Or what quarters do the car get? All this would be a wealth of information, and would help all who plan to do some thing with their beloved L series motor without wasting money on engineering that has little gain. (even if you have a mates car thats been put on a dyno/or strip please give details)

gav240, I have to agree about restoring it yourself= ie ground up. At least you know its fixed proper and isnt just a dodgy paint job. I'am finding some horrors lurking under the paint in my 260z as I strip it- all caused by dodgy previous repairs. Its hard to find the time to do it yourself BUT panel shops are so expensive because they get all their cash quick from insurance work.(and arnt really interested in full paint jobs) One 260z I looked at(to buy) had over a dozen rust bubbles- on different panels- and the owner had it professionaly painted 6 weeks before I saw it, it was a good car apart from that-it was a shame it wasnt done properly. That 240z for sale wasnt in QLD was it?

I know that i'll probably have to sell it first-then buy a zcar,,BUT I thought maybe someone may have wanted to swap(small chance but you never know). I'am still have problems finding a good 240z(or 260z)-even all of the HIGHER priced examples that have had a (so called) full bare metal respray and heaps of work done have have too much rust for a "pristine" car. -Which doesnt matter but it pisses me off when the owner says that there is "NO" or "minimal" rust and I drive 3-6 hours (return drive) to see a car that is VERY VERY far from being rust free(ie No metal left on doors inside edges-big holes in floor/under rails- rear sills that are puffed up over an inch because of rust). I have done 5(or 6) seperate of these 3-6 hour drives in the last 3 months, all of which the owners either lied or just couldnt see the condition of their rusty z cars. People please be honest about the condition of your car when selling it!

http://members.dodo.net.au/~scottsaal/c1.jpg http://members.dodo.net.au/~scottsaal/c2.jpg

Thank you all for the great response! It sounds like the f54 block with the n42 head is the go(ive got a n42 complete motor). But what models did the f54 come out in australia? Or would it be cheaper to put flattops pistons into my n42 block?

I was going to run it on optimax or BP 98- both of which are 98 octane(I have to run that on my turbo capri now anyway)

What to do? I'd like to knock the compression up to around 10:1 and I know flattop pistons will do this but they are very expensive- Ive also heard of people welding up the standard head and making the chambers smaller but that also sounds very expensive. The other option is to use a 2.4l head- but then its got smaller inlets valves and it doesnt raise the compression much(not enough to be worth it). Also what cam is everyone using? Ive read that anything bigger then a 280 degree cam on the street is a real bitch- I'd love to hear what everyone else has and how well it drives.(in a prev zcar I had a 284 degree cam and I thought it was really easy to drive but maybe it wasnt as big as the seller said it was). Does any one have pics of the limits of porting a n42 head? Anyone done it DIY in this forum..please share info if you have. Ive bought a l24 electronic dizzy of a skyline.. Ive still got to set it up. Any other performance ideas??

I've seen a e80 head on a ozzy 79 2.4l skyline... THe datsub garage web site mentions that we have then in oz BUT doesnt give any specs. at http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/heads.html Does anyone one know anything about them- eg compression ratio ,value size etc thankyou

Ive got a capri convertible, in good nick, with a new 1.8l famalia japan import turbo motor. With microtech computer/bug intercooler/BOV etc.--body/mech/interior in good condition. Thinking about selling it for a zed car--would anyone want to swap--??? I'm interested in 240z/260z--prefer 240z or a least a 260z 2seater--no rust in VGC---prefer very clean original or finished groundup restoration anyone interested please email me on scottsaal@dodo.net.au

That sounds good...ill suss it out... did the 2" su's make the car drive much different?

i saw a e80 on a late 70's skyline..(6 cyl) anyone know is they are any good,flow,compression etc???

datfreak puts his hand up for the list of suppliers.. scottsaal@dodo.net.au

I have two pairs of 260z carbs and manifolds for sale. Both where working fine before being pulled off there respective cars. Complete with airfilter cover etc $200 each set, can send COD I'am in QLD AUSTRALIA email me on scottsaal@dodo.net.au how about $180?

Has anyone used aftermarket pistons(inexpensive) on n42 block l28s? I'am in Aust, but USA brands also would be interesting I'am after high compression eg 9.8 or higher-- any ideas???