drunkenmaster

I am using anglegrinder/wire wheel. You can click the link in my signature for pics. I find manouvering myself under the car is the most time consuming part, the actual grinding is quite quick. What I would give for a rotissirie...

I have found a knowledgable guy to help me build the internals, i am more curious about fitment of suitable shafts now.

I have an R200, but i am hearing different R200 LSD's from different cars accept different splines etc etc

Im looking at picking up a 3.7 R200 from a wrecker and perhaps getting some extra plates put in to increase the break away torque. Any comments from the pros in regards to this? Also are there any issues with fitting the LSD to the standard 260Z shafts? Thanks

Thanks for the PM. Still will take a 280zx workshop manual though, if not just for the turbo notes.

bump bump bump... Still after one of these, anyone know if it covers the turbo models?

A Z im looking to buy has rust here, how do you fasten replacement panels? Stupid question, but where to the welds go or do you weld it everywhere and grind it back to paint over.

The exhaust casting is: F5 *KN4 81 Y Anyone got a source to find out what these mean. I have a photo of another manifold which has 82 in place of 81 so perhaps this is the year as the turbo 280zx was an 81-83 car i think.

I think http://www.zworx.com.au/ fabricate the small panel your talking about.

Well i have stripped my inner wheel arch and found nothing but shiny metal, so I hope the other side I cant see is the same http://www.angelfire.com/hi3/hiper/260Zunderbodystrip_cleanarch.html

Well, a turbo is always going to be faster for many reasons including that it helps compensate for the outdated head design, but there is something inherently cool about a highly tuned NA L28, preferably with independant throttle bodies I will check out the casting numbers today and post them up. The inlet manifold pictured seems to be some sort of mock up to run the system on a carbureted car I think?

Is there no real way of telling what lies beneath other than drilling/cutting out the panel?

http://www.angelfire.com/hi3/hiper/260Zturbo_turbobought.html purchased from a fellow member fo the forums. A bit fo surface rust but nothing some sandblasting and HPC coating wont fix.

I just looked in your gallery and I saw a car identical to yours in Melboure over the weekend, looked very tidy, identical colour and all. Was tempted to leave the ol' "do you wanna sell?" note on the windscreen.

The pillar looks different on this car? I cant remember what they should be, its been too long since i had a complete car.

I have an L28ET which is very hard to source as a whole in Australia, I had to get the manifolds seperate. Its not like the US where you can pick them up in junkyards as they were never released here and importers to not carry them. As for the vented bonnet, I like the smooth look of the non-fluted/vented bonnet much better but Im wondering if the heat extraction provided may prove to be a necessity on a turbo motor.

from the pics it looks like the windscreen pillar trims are missing?

Interesting... So the interior is complete? rear 1/4 and hatch interior trims? centre console and dash condition? Is everything black (are only the doors carpeted)? Any missing items or damage to note anywhere in the car? (other than the floors :classic: )

how much! :classic:

They dont "bolt right in". You will need two left Z31 shafts and one right Z31 shaft, or was it two right Z31 shafts and one left? :stupid: Anyhow you need 3 of them and there is some cutting an welding to get the length right. http://www.speed-technology.com have done a few in their time.

Hahaha sounds like me a year or so ago. After I did some real world sums and spoke to several workshops my wallet led me to my L28ET.....

wheres the 260Z dash dammit!

fuel injected L28 motors can run unleaded, im not sure what motor yours is.

Wrapping is to reduce heat radiation. The most success I have had with noise reduction on a sports exhaust is to use centre offset mufflers. These are still straight through and flow well, but the entry is in the centre of the oval casing and the exit is offset to one side (or vice versa) meaning the muffler had greater internal surface area to absorb noise. Playing with resonators did nothing for me when I was trying to pass an EPA test. In my car I am hoping there is room under the Z for a mid muffler like this: http://www.airpowersystems.com.au/200sx/exhaust/entire_exhaust3.jpg As at all of 23yo, I am too old for the loud droning exhausts these kids like today

We will see what happens, its a bit down the track yet but I thought i'd get some opinions and discussion going in the mean time