Rev issue, driving issue

[SeKcGamer]

After quite a bit of time has passed. I have managed to replace the ignition control module that I previously posted with an lx-512 module and it seemed to be an oem out of box module.myfather installed it for me in Idaho, so you know the car had been sitting for almost a year. My father tried to drive on it but the car would die after he would let off the gas. Car idles great. He towed it to me in texas where I dropped the tank. The fuel still had rust particles floating so I sent the tank and got it re-nu‘d (cleaned and sealed). I installed the renud tank and I got a replacement fuel pump and fuel filter. I fired up the car and she idled great but if you rev the engine over 6-7k the tachometer would do this thing where it goes all the way to redline and down to 0 and the car obviously dies. I don’t know exactly what kind of problem I have now. I will replace the battery because when I try to turn the engine it just cranks but the lights get dimmer when I’m trying to start it. Help

[siteunseen]

Does the motor shoot up or just the tach?

[SeKcGamer]

I rev the engine but the tach is the one that shoots up and then the car dies so the tach goes down then the engine shuts off. Once you drive the vehicle if you rev the engine to high it will cause the engine to shut off. It didn't seem to shut off when the rpms were around 2-3k. When I drove the car back I coasted it into the parking lot because it had died. And when I tried to turn the engine it didn't want to start anymore. but when I cranked it the headlights would dim as it cranked. After about 4-5min of waiting I cranked it up and it started for about 5 sec and shut off. ive already rebuilt the engine and fixed my fuel tank the best way. so I'm feeling an electrical end.

[gwri8]

 Did you clean or replace the fuel lines when the tank was cleaned?  It's possible there is some crud left in the lines and was the fuel pump replace with an OE one or after market? Didn't you have a whole bunch of electrical issues before?  Did you ever get them straightend out?   I'm not trying to confuse you,  just trying to get as much detailed info so we can start to isolate the problem.

[siteunseen]

I haven't been keeping up but that is like a igniton module failure, no?

 

[SeKcGamer]

the fuel pump is an aftermarket fuel pump from autozone that ive had warranty on. ive had a bunch of electrical problems but my highschool teacher sorted some of the many I was having before. I have some wires that I have left alone because I have no idea where they go even at looking at the wiring diagram.

[SeKcGamer]

well the old igm-04 the car wouldnt turn off, and this new one is the same # as the one I pulled out of the car. is there another ignition module?. Or potentially the module wasn't wired up correctly. ill get pictures.

[Reptoid Overlords]

Will it run long enough after its sat a while to get some numbers such as fuel pressure and vacuum etc? If so then it would help the community troubleshoot. I don't know if your car is fuel injected. My phone doesn't show any profile info. Maybe run some of the ECU tests in the FSM and post results.

Also a video of it malfunctioning might help. Whether or not it only does it when it's hot or anytime. I had a bad stumble years ago due to an improperly adjusted and moist TVS. I could Re create the stumble by operating the throttle from outside the car and it would go away as I moved the TVS.

Not saying you have the same problem.. Nor am I suggesting that you adjust the TVS without using the method prescribed in the FSM.
Edit:  I said stumble, but more specifically I mean misfire. 
Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk
 

Edited June 29, 2019 by Reptoid Overlords

[SeKcGamer]

Reptoid, the car will idle perfectly fine on initial start-up. When you rev the engine to high and the engine shuts off and you try to start it again right after it’ll idle at a lower rpm around 8-900rpm. It usually idles around 1200. And it sounds like it can idle forever. The fuel pressure is reading at 40 , my engine is fuel injected. I don’t know how to test for vacuum but I’m sure you guys could lead me in that direction. I’ll upload a video bright and early in the morning. It’s pretty warm here in Houston but it it’s looking like a constant anytime problem. 

[siteunseen]

Borrow a vacuum gauge from a local chain store. They make you pay up front but won't charge when you return it. 

Loaner program they call it but you pay. Should be buy it program.

[Reptoid Overlords]

It doesn't really sound like vacuum leak symptoms, but it's good to know your vacuum numbers at any rate.  As site said, go rent a vacuum tester.  You want to measure with the engine at normal operating temperature.  Find where the rubber hose from the brake booster goes into the intake manifold.  Loosen the clamp at the manifold, remove the hose, and attach the proper adapter included with the vacuum tester kit.  Start the engine and observe where the needle sits at idle.   For at or near sea level locations, I believe 20-23HG is nominal..17 is low but acceptable.  I don't know much about Houston, but I know it's hot and humid and most likely near or below sea level, so the numbers on the gauge are to be read without doing math(higher elevations require a formula for factoring elevation).  One thing to note in your particular situation is that you stated earlier that your engine idles at 1200 RPM.  That will produce a higher vacuum reading, possibly masking any problems.  My '80 ZX is supposed to idle at 750RPM(which it currently does)..I'm sure 750 is right for all the FI cars but you might want to verify idle RPM for your year. 

 

I would research how to adjust the idle mixture adjustment screw

http://xenonzcar.com/s130/afmrefresh.html

See step 7

Edited June 29, 2019 by Reptoid Overlords

[SeKcGamer]

Edited June 29, 2019 by SeKcGamer
Failed upload