Dave WM

door not closing is 1st issue to address, I would be surprised if the door mech worked at all under those conditions. Was it this way after the repair? is it the same side that took the hit? maybe a pic of the 1/2 issue is in order.

we could crack open the hatch so you could get some fresh air....

maybe stuff the both of you back with my spares under the hatch

if it was a 2+2 you could go!, sorry

will give you a shout when closer to confirm but looks most like Friday after thanksgiving.

not specific, just summer time for now, have a bro in law that is going too in his 92 Miata, he is working on his car to get it in shape. But yes the spare will have to be picked carefully, maybe that extra 5 speed will be included

The plan it to go to Phenix City, (family) then go up towards Elijay for a scenic run. Maybe as soon as Tday. need a destination, like a nice BBQ joint around that area to take Dad to.

still have the 4 speed in, I have to reassemble the 5 speed one more time (last time I just slapped together to test with no sealant). The plan is to put it in and see if the noise is gone, if not I will try the other 5 speed (late JY pull). For this trip 5th would prob not even be used, since I don't think I will get in it unless I am going 70+. For the Pikes peak I think I will def need the 5 speed for when I am out on those really long interstates. I am still planning the next Ga trip, prob early Dec this year, last year I was almost ready to go before all those terrible fires that hit NGa and Tn. I am debating on trying to find non interstates for Pikes peak, really just want a low traffic trip.

The plan is to drive to pike's peak, from central Florida next year. On to Mt. Rushmore after that. But wanted at least a trial run much shorter just to see how the car (and I) would hold up with lots of continuous hours. So a run from central Florida to central Alabama was in order (family visit). I decided to stay off the interstates, frankly the white knuckle traffic on I-75 in a car that small makes me nervous. So I took some very nice lightly traveled but still 4 land divided (US 27 and US 19) roads. This lets you drive 65 mph with hardly a car in sight. This seems to be right in the Datsuns sweet spot, esp with the 4 speed, and even though it took a couple extra hours it was much more relaxing and I was less frazzeled by the end of the trip. Found a ethonal free station mid trip so gas was not a problem. Temps were cool most of trip (upper 50's to lower 70's) so I did not have to use the AC much (Florida afternoon was the only time, maybe 100 miles). Car ran fine temps never got over the "E" (I have the 170f nissan thermostat), avg about 24mph going about 60-65 most of the way. I was happy with the long time in the seat, even though they are crude by todays standards they were comfortable, by the end of the trip wiht 9hrs I was still feeling like I could go another 4 easy. I still have some things to do, I noticed a slight wobble when applying brakes I assume warped disc, still need to finish seats (only did the bottom have foam and back to do), replace soft brake lines (not leaking or dry rotted but I have no idea how old they are), get the rad rodded out (some build up in it) as the trip will be in the summer. Besides that just make some more trips, hope to go to N Ga next to get some hill driving time in.

Those shift inserts should not be disengaging from the balk ring. That would be the only thing to worry about, cant really tell from the video. I have to reassemble mine later this week, will get some video to show you what I am talking about.

IIRC those shift dogs (3 spring loaded parts mounted around the hub of the syhcro) should be locking the brass baulk ring to the hub. With it in neutral can you spin the brass ring while holdng the output shaft still?

I have heard (for what that is worth) that running synt oils in old cars that have used dino oil can sometimes effect seals. Could just be internet lore.. for what its worth I run Valvoline VR-1 racing oil.

I would have thought a vacuum leak would result in a drop of rpm (rough running) but I work on EFI more that carbs so maybe missing something. but yea, bad booster, you could always just put a vacuum on in and see if it holds. The booster can fail in odd ways, mine leaked around a seal so only when I touched the brakes, others may leak constantly.

they come up on ebay all the time both the cap and the filler tube. just make sure you get the right year, there are subtle changes.

oil leaks.. clean everything real well from the spark plugs on down. when you see the leak again see if you can see it starting up high like around the head, if not look lower like around the pressure sending unit or oil filter. If still dry look closely at the pan, right at the mating surfaces. is it in the front or back of the engine? if in the back of the engine do you see any oil coming from the weep hole on the bottom of the bell housing of the transmission? this can be hard to determine, clean this area well with some brake cleaner. IF you have what looks like a pan gasket leak in the back of the engine AND if you can see what looks like a leak that is coming out of the weep hole, then you may have a rear main leak. the only way to know for sure is to pull the trans and the clutch and the pressure plate and take a look at the rear main. focus on the seal AND look at the seam that is where the rear main side seal resides. I had a persistent leak that did not respond to the pan gasket or the rear main but from the side seals. You can replace the rear side seals without pulling the trans, can do them when doing the pan gasket. You pull the pan, then unbolt the rear main bearing cap (need a puller or fashion something to pull it) don't mess up the main bearing, replace the seals, use the sealant as per the FSM, make sure the pan is not dimpled from over tightening use a new gasket and hope for the best. My leak was from the side seals for sure. It looked like a pan leak.

operating on the assumption the problem still exist (same kind of noise with different gear, maybe a bit less but still there), and assuming the only remaining cause can be a shaft issue, the next test will be to affix a dial indicator to the bell housing, and get a reading on the INPUT shaft. while not the shaft I think is the problem I figure if the output shaft is wobbling it will telegraph into the input shaft. The good thing is I have the JY trans that does not make the noise, so I have something to compare to. Did the test, no significant variation on input shaft run out when in 4th and spinning the output shaft between the noisy and non noisy trans.

video with drill test it sounds ok at 1st but around 1:15 you can hear it knocking again, maybe not as bad as before but still worse than the JY

Case seems to go together ok.

I did a side by side comparison of the videos (not yet able to upload) with that I was able to get a better comparison, I think I still have the problem. Did not seem like it was as bad, but the audio from the before and after makes me think something is still not right. Seem like I have two choices, reinstall and take for a test spin OR completely disassemble and check the output shaft for bends. That can be the only thing I can think of. Perhaps since the 3rd gear is the last thing on the output shaft any defect would be amplified. I am sure the noise was less with it on the adapter plate with the new gear (I was listening to the 3rd shift fork selector while slow spinning, could detect a knocking sound), thought I did not hear it at all with the new gear, but the new video you can still pickup on it. I am thinking of just taking a break from it and letting it stew for a while on what to do next. Again will upload videos as soon as able.

I am going out on a limb here and say I may have it fixed. both housing installed (no sealant) still have the front cover off but def no more clunking like before. I will do another video later same as the others with the front cover off for comparison. What I just don't get is I cant see anything wrong with my gear. Now to be fair I did replace everything associated with 3rd gear. I used the bearing/gear/brass from ZH. maybe something in the bearing, can't see any defects on any of the parts. But proof is in the performance. I will button it up completely later. Now the big question, do I go ahead and pop for a BRAND NEW 3rd gear or just run the one from ZH that is working. I maybe able to get a new one for about 100$ delivered, but considering 3rd does not get a lot of use anyway (I would think 4th and 5th would be most used time wise) seems like a lot of money. I also now have to decide which trans to run, the one I have been working on for months now and maybe fixed or the recent JY find. My inclination is to try the rebuilt one, if for no other reason than to prove its fixed in a working environment, keep the other as a backup. It only takes me about 5 hrs to pull and replace, prob faster if I can get the exhaust to unbolt at the cat converter (which I will be doing since the OE muffler has a small hole in it, so will be replaced next time I pull it). Stay tuned for the what I hope is the final noise video later.

that was fast here by Sat 3pm ish

prelim test with ZH provided 3rd/bearing/ring are looking promising. I did a quick test with the adapter plate in the vice, the knock I heard with the stethoscope was gone. I still have to install the counter shaft bearing and then re install in the housings but maybe this will do it. I sure hope, the only other thing that was suspect was a bent output shaft. I assumed holding it steady will spinning the gears was a valid test, but I may be wrong about that. If this last attempt fails the plan will be to tear down completely and start with a exam of the output shaft using some V blocks and a dial indicator. Thanks again to ZH!!

great, should be more fun testing. I was able to precisely set the knock point as predicted above. I tried other gears to make sure and as predicted, the stake nut either gained or lost ground in relation to the knock. Also seems the knock is worst in 3rd least in 4th, perhaps the locked together 4th has some effect on stabilizing the output shaft (input and output locked putting the front case bearing on the output).

more testing. I mesh the gears in the suspect area while in neutral (both housings off). While I hold 3rd in that position I turn the output shaft so the stake in the nut behind 5th gear is exactly at 12 o clock. I reinstall the front bell housing and get the knock at exactly timed to the 12 o clock each revolution. Next to confirm that I can control it I will hold the input shaft still, thereby locking the gears in place at the 12 o clock and shift into neutral and rotate the output to 3 o clock, and then re engage the sych hub for 3rd. This should keep the suspect teeth engaged but move the knocking to 3 o clock precisely each revolution. If that's the case I have to assume I have found the bad teeth on the correct gear.

added more videos of the fixed wobble. took a closer look and I can see some minor chipping damage right in the middle of the gear teeth exactly where they mesh that corresponds to the noise. I mean its MINOR right in the middle with near where the relief cut is made in the gear (the one that circles the entire gear). All the rest of the teeth look flat, there is a tiny divot on two of the teeth. I am finding it hard to imagine they could cause the noise, but it seems they are the only suspect. I am thinking of removing the gear and using a dremal moto tool to see if I can smooth that area out. Not sure I can do it with the gear installed, even though that would greatly reduce the effort. maybe with one of the thin grinding stones I could get in there. I would hate to take it apart and put back together again to find no change after working the gear. I will try to get a close up pic of the damage later today. pt1 of the wobble shows me using a dial indicator to check the cone.