Dave WM
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Everything posted by Dave WM
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just plug into the line that goes to the CSV, you don't need it anyway during summer months and it removes one more variable (a bad CSV) from the equation. -
The wiring of the CTS and the CSV can get mixed up, bullet connectors and sensor plugs that can interchange. That's why its important to check at the 36 pin connector, it will account for any mixups. My guess is that pin 13 to ground will be wide open.
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I worked on one of those a while ago. No switch, more like a set of wires that come into contact along the front IIRC. You can figure it out when you get it apart. clean and bending was the fix.
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is there a harbor freight near you? they have them, 30$ish IIRC 90% chance its the CTS, either it or the wiring to it. It lives in a harsh environment (coolant) that can corrode not only the sensor but the connector to it as well if there is any kind of leak.
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don't mess with the AFM, while its tempting, its like NOT to be the issue, unless someone had beat you to it and messed with it. Follow EuroDat instructions and report back the findings on the Temp sensor resistance. Also note the temp of the engine, as it needs to match up with the resistance reading table. too much fuel resulting in rich mixture is generally from: CTS (too high a resistance for the temp of the engine) CSV (stuck on) leaking FPR (fuel from the vacuum hose dumping into the manifold) too high a pressure (FPR not working). Get all those checks out before doing anything else. Very important they are all checked and results noted. oh and lastly prior monkeyed with AFM. Hopefully it has not been opened.
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finally got around to testing how long an engine will run with the fuel pump off. My setup on the test stand (which has much more rubber hose, no hard line but for the fuel rail) will run for about 13 seconds. You can tell its off after about 2 seconds, then itl struggle for the last 11 or so second till it dies. This was at idle of course. I like the theory of a pooling of fuel in the manifold for any kind of run on longer than that. Still have doubts about 8-10 minutes (think that was what was said). Kind of pointless to keep talking about it, you have to get the fuel pressure gauge and start going thru the process. I only brought it up since I had said I would check the time a engine would run with the pump off, on my setup.
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exhaust parts, heat shields, hangers?
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Not very good with paint, here is the video
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more testing, nothing changed, but did not seem to have the same change in color. I have attached a pic from the latest video, comparing the colors before (bottom) and after test(top)
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ok so now the fun begins, get the wiring diagram from the FSM that details the headlights for starters, you should be able to find the power lead, un plug that and see if you can clear the short on the terminal where the fuse wire plugs in. You are going to want to set things up for continuity testing and start working to see when the short goes away. My guess is the combo switch has been futz with, but you will just have to do some circuit tracing. IIRC its a big fat single red lead plug that is part of the combo switch harness. That one supplies power thru the combo switch back to the fuse box that has dual 10amp fuses for each head light. The headlight get the ground thru the dimmer, a big fat Black lead that is part of the combo switch harness.
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you have to figure out the fuel pressure. Make sure you have gas in tank (BTDT), check voltage ATTHE PUMP, should be around 10-11volts this pump on engine off, however you get that to be. could be the FPR is just flowing too much back, you will need to do a dead head test (leave gauge on and BRIEFLY clamp off the return hose), only long enough to see the max pressure the pump can provide, like 1 second. Do this 1st before the voltage test, its easy and fast. I think the OE style pump will max out at about 60psi, it has a bypass that prevents too much pressure. After market pumps can go up to 100 psi fast and will locate any weak hoses or connections in dramatic fashion (gas spraying everywhere as hose burst). This is why you only want to do it for a second and get a quick read, before things to bad.
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if you are going thru the effort, I would take it to a shop and have it hot tanked. Unscrew the block drain and check out the crud. But I guess that ups the ante a lot as far as having to tear it down. OK strike that comment about the hot tank idea.
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you did not say if the fuse link blows instantly regardless of if the head light switch is on or off. that would help.
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Yep the headlight have a fuse wire, I have the 76 fsm on BE-11 is shows the circuit. I would start by seeing if there is a dead short at the fuse link terminal that leads to the combo switch. Try operating the combo switch (lights on and off repeatedly) and see what effect you have. If no effect disconnect the lead at the combo swich (fsm shows a single red) and see if that clears the short. You are just going to have to work thru it with a multimeter to find the issue. that is IF the circuit is blowing the correct OE fuse link.
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those fuse links do not look factory. I am not sure but if they supply the head light circuit, then you may have a problem in the head light switch itself, but of course could be a short anywhere in the circuit. You are going to have to review the FSM and look at the section that covers that.
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do yourself a favor, if not done already, check the waterpump. look for any weeping of water, and play in the pump shaft. When it goes its no fun and you risk overheating the head. IF it needs replacement read a LOT about removing the bolts and how to try and avoid breaking them.
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indeed, two different sources I was only guessing about why there "may" be a need for refunding, was simply told a meeting was to take place and there may be a need to refund. Perhaps what ever the meeting was about had a positive outcome. Every time I spoke to Hung, he came across as very sincere about getting a quality product (phone con, my preferred method of communication) I only resort to emails and other messaging when phone connections are hard to make. I too am hoping for the #74 to be accurate.
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3 and 5 as long as you are taking it apart to fix. good time to put in a new throw out bearing/clutch/front seal.
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I am not giving up hope, there are not a lot of options.
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My dash is in pretty good shape, just one crack right down the middle, would be nice to know the problem, if the 240 is doable is there something about the 280 that makes it not?
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your carpet looks nice too, where did you get that? Mine is in good shape but faded, I was thinking of just re dyeing it.
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face book message back to me, will be contacting mfgr again today. Said he might have to refund me if it takes any longer. I guess it will be based on whether or not the mfgr can give any assurance about being able to produce. That was not said but is just my guess.
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I think its safe to say the running/non running fuel pump is a rabbit hole not needed to go down. OP did you check the CTS (coolant temp sensor) per the FSM? do the check at the ECU connector.
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yes but they use fuel pressure to atomize the fuel, no pressure no fuel for EFI.
