Dave WM

interesting video on a dash removal. He is doing a complete strip down, hence removed the steering column. Looks like if the wheel was off the dash could be worked out without removing.

steering wheel off, column left in place but unbolted so it can tip down for more clearance? I plan to do a video.

out for delivery, fingers crossed fedex did not mess it up...

maybe a dumb question, but I assume the gauges etc.. all stay attached to the metal frame, with the dash pad just fitting over? or will I have to remove gauges, install pad, then re install gauges thru the openings in the pad?

seats out sounds like a good idea, more real estate to move around in. Had not thought about that.

Since your dash is already out, can you think of any pit falls or tips on removal? the FSM makes it sound pretty easy.

looks like it was worth the wait!!

Got a call from Fedex, should be delivered tomorrow, anybody interested in seeing an unboxing video? I have a spare dash, I could strip the old bunged up dash pad off, just to make sure I know how this one should fit (a dry run if you will). That way I could do the test fitting in the comfort of A/C indoors.

she will have to get some one to look it over closely, could be hard to see, esp since aftermarket and can't help since I don't know the installation. BUT most likely a drain line has popped off the evap housing OR the drain tube is blocked (pinched). Best bet would be to take it to the guy that did the install, as he should know the drain details. Discounting the idea its coolant since its not warm. could do a taste test if not sure.

this is the car with the after market AC? its hot and humid this time of year in Georgia, I was thinking condensate somehow accumulating. Would account for it feeling cold. Maybe ask her if the AC is working and if it is, does she see a puddle of water under the car when stopped but AC on? I had the same problem but it was related to rain, turned out to be a poorly sealing window gasket. The fix was to seal with some butyl (the gasket was fairly new, just did not seal well). The FSM calls for sealing as well, but there was no sealant used (I could not see any evidence of it).

not hanging up now, did the nightly spin all good. Even went over some speed bumps. Rear suspension not as soft anymore.

was it raining? was the AC on?

cheborneck after no brakes, bleed them old school (not using the vacuum pump) you "down", "down", "up", "up" two person job and all good again. 4 part series, carp free zone..

well now I have almost no brakes. guess the 1 person bleeding did not work so well. Will try again the old fashion way (one person operating brakes while the other one cracks the bleeder.

looks like a homemade heat shield.

will do after I heal up some.

well got the drive side brakes done. the OE cylinder had some rusty looking carp in it, local autozone had both a right and left, got them both, some new shoes and hoses. impressions on the china made cylinder, I guess the hydraulic parts will be ok but the auto adjuster did not work right out of the box, I had to bend it to make it engage the ratchet, and even then it was iffy. I reused the OE ratchet, would have reused the adj lever but after the 3rd time of installing it (don't ask) I just did not want to mess with it anymore. I seems to be working now (at lest the auto adj part and the E brake. while I was at it I put in the NOS non pressurized cartridge. I had forgotten what a pain it was to pull the strut, but the real fun began when I could not get the rod to stay out of the cart long enough for me to get the spring back in place and the insulator bolted on. The solution was to use the spindle pin, I had tapped it out already to make the strut easier to handle (off the car method). After installing the new cart, adding a little bit of oil to prevent future rust, and using the BFAW (24") to tighten the nut I partially threaded on a nut, then threaded the spindle pin on top of that. The extra length of the spindle pin let me set up the spring/cap and then grab the spindle pin and draw out the cart rod. once it was out I had enough time to get the insulator on and spin the nut on with a impact driver. I suspect the gas charged struts were inpart developed just to avoid this major hassle. anyway the driver side is almost done, did not want to wake her up while pounding the spindle pin back in place (I use an old one to get it all aligned, the insert the keeper by driving it in while knocking the alignment pin out. Will finish up that tomorrow. On the fence about messing with the other cylinder, no leaks, works fine, better OE quality as long as its not rusted. But I do want to do the pass rear strut cart (its still the OE stuff in there, and while its not leaking, I think it would make sense to at least have a matching suspension parts on L and R sides. For that one I think I will leave the spindle pin in place and tilt out the strut for replacement. will think about it... not sure if it will make the spring compressing etc. to much of a hassle.

Will replace hoses, past due anyway, looks like will be messing with brakes this weekend.

just backing out of the garage today I could tell something was stuck. driver side rear was so stuck I could remove the lug nuts with the tires in the air (neutral). Rubber mallet used to get the hub off. the adjuster has only out about 3/16 thread showing, I turned it in and all was fine. BUT there was a large amount of brake dust, and it was oily at that . Mostly around the top of the hub which I found odd since there is no oil source up there (cylinder is on the bottom of my 75). I check and the E brake cable seemed ok but really need someone to operate it while I watch I suppose. Will get spouse on the job for that, she was not around at the time. anyway the oiliness bothered me. I also noticed my strut had oil on it. IIRC that one had a slightly pitted piston on the damper section, guess its time to install the non pressurized carts I got just for this. But I don't see how any of that oil could have worked its way into the brake drum, so I have to assume it leaking brake fluid. I can by a new cylinder for about 60$, or I suppose I can pull the old one and see if it just needs a rebuild. I will need to pull it either way (replace/rebuild), so may as well take a look. The springs were all in place so I can't think of anything else to do that could account for both the oily residue AND the stuck over extended shoe. hmmm could a defective rubber brake hose be an issue, somehow not allowing brake fluid to drain back? They should be replaced as I am pretty sure they are orig to the car.

Glazed ham...

sounds like I need to get that book! I have the rebuild book, maybe its in there, I just don't recall.

I wonder if its SOP at shops to attempt some degree of straightening before the machining process are started? I think one of the test should be a trial spin of the cam shaft (all rockers out of course) before starting anything. install it on the block, test spin, perhaps measure the torque required, remove it, do the same, just to see if there is a difference. Then if any machine work is done do the same, in reverse order. Would be some interesting data points.

a lot of work went into that it seems.

and some more interesting reading https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2007/06/common-mistakes-to-avoid-when-resurfacing-cylinder-heads-blocks/

more interesting tooling http://www.bhjproducts.com/bhj_content/products/cylinderhdtooling/hsp.php I guess machine shops are all over this. All I seem to hear about is milling the surfaces flat.