sblake01

There's really no excess pressure. Before I replaced my tank, the fuel pressure would only get up to about 27-29 at best. At idle it was even lower, not enough to properly sustain the idle. It's supposed to be 36.3. It eventually would clog up to where it would die upon any kind of acceleration. After changing the tank and obtaining proper fuel pressure, I did have to replace a couple of injectors. It's hard to really know what's going on with the injectors if the fuel pressure is off.

It'll run even better once you tend to the tank. What's probably happening is at 2500rpm you have enough fuel pressure to make it more or less run okay but I'll bet it's still not up to spec due to the crud in the tank. At idle the pressure drops even more. That's how mine was. I cleaned out all the lines, changed the filter a few times, but the problem still persisted until I changed the tank.

The same gas for the last four years? So the car has basically been sitting for four years, without running? Mine was the same way when I bought it only it had been sitting for almost five years. You'll have to either remove and properly clean the gas tank or replace it.

I used Clevite 77 mains. Ten years ago, no problems. MS1106P is the part number. I believe I got mine through Napa. IIRC they were about $32. Even today, they'd be much less than $140

They come with two bases. One is 1 1/4" and the other is 3 1/2" center to center IIRC. I wonder if those are metal or plastic??

The fuel damper, which is what I think you are referring to in your last paragraph was present on all EFI S30s and S130s through 1983 (1984 if you include the 810/RWD Maxima). How did you conclude that it's not found after 1977? I have a 78 280Z and a 79 810 and they both have one.

I understand downdraughts. They work fine on what they're designed for.

Forgot to mention this. While you can use the old ones, I recommend using new upper an lower rubber o-ring seals or insulators as Nissan calls them. Part numbers 16635-N1400 are the upper ones, you'll need 6 and 16636-N1400 are the lowers, also 6. They're not that costly and you might as well replace them while your're in there.

The consesus here will be to rebuild the round tops or get a set from Z Therapy. The Holley conversion has been discussed many times here and the general opinion is that it doesn't work well on an inline 6 cylinder eingine. There was a 'tuner' type episode on one of the cable channels where they took two 240z's, converted them to Holley 4bbls and they actually ran slower in the 1/4 mile than the stock setup.

Have you tried this one: http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/

They'll stick around. The Smiths are the founders and owners and I don't think they're going anywhere. Sal was one of the Sales tech/customer service guys, and one of the better ones.

Hey, it's rechargable!

That's fine, I guess, but it kind of kills the continuity of the thread by making the comments that followed based on the off topic posts seem strange.

Looks like the right section to me. Don't test it with the can as the original cans for a 77-78 are no longer available. You could just air the tire up at a gas station or with a compressor to see if it holds air. I have a collapsable tire in my 78 and the can though I don't use it. The can is still available through Nissan though it's not the original one that they sell. It's actually for a Z31 and has a list price of over 90 bucks.

Good call, David. I forgot about the idler pulleys. I guess because my Z doesn't have them but my 810 does. They too can squeal and clunk when bad. But either way I'd make certain what's making the noise and fix it. I had a 78 510 whose water pump impeller came loose and knocked a hole in the back of the timing cover.

The clunking sound would stop me from driving it until its fixed. I don't think flushing will take that away.

Z cars don't have problems with their water pumps any more than other cars do. I changed the one in my 78 8 years ago, and the one in my 810 is the one that was in it when I bought it in 2003. If I had to replace mine, I'd go with an OEM Nissan unit not a chain store replacement. May cost more but you'll do the job less often. The clunking could be a loose impeller and the squeaking is the bearing. Pretty common with chain store replacements. I'd fix it asap.

I'm pretty sure those are still available from Nissan. 16578-N4200 is the one for a 75.

I know this won't help you, Austen, but I just pulled a 77-79 type California type 5 speed (three sensors) from my 810 and replaced it with a 83 ZX 5 speed. Anyone who wants the old trans can have it but it's noisy and would need a refresh. Pick up only.

I don't know, I've seen enough of those conversions in real life to not really consider them rare.:sick:

When I had my Datsun roadster, some idiot broke into it by cutting a slash in the soft top. I always left the doors unlocked when I had the soft top on it since if they were locked all someone would have to do is push the side of the soft top in and unlock the door. And they stole my vertical mount stereo. Unless you had a 68-70 Datsun roadster or a Chevy Citation (remember those?) that unit is pretty useless.

These are my homemade test tools. The one on the left is for testing injectors or releasing the pressure from the cold start valve and the one on the right is used inline to check injector signals while the car is running or cranking.

I have my own little invention for that as well as testing injectors. It's a 9 volt battery connected to an injector connector with a momentary switch. I posted a picture of it on this site a while back and can't find it now but it's a pretty simple concept. (I came up with it, didn't I?)

Just use the shifter from your 76. I used the shifter from my 78 5 speed when I put the 83 5 speed in it and it clears with no problem. The Maxima shift lever has some strange bends like my 810. I could see it being a problem in a Z.

Here's the latest Hot Wheels 240Z to go with last year's yellow, white and silver ones: