sblake01

BTDT. I removed the stripped ones with a 'screw out' tool in an inpact screwdriver and replaced the screws with stainless allen head bolts. #3 is sort of a pain being behind the FPR, however.

Westpak, eres colombiano? Yo no soy colombiano pero comprendo algunos español.

This may or may not help but on an S30, the drivers side rear is actually the longest line and should be bled first.

It was a pain on my 78. Not sure if a 240 setup is similar but the 280 has a plastic cam that was broken where that lever connects to it. I bought another control assembly and intended to just change out that part but once I had the old one removed it was easier to just swap the entire assembly.

Bruce's answer pretty much covers it. Make sure you use hose rated for fuel injection. conedodger, I was just giving you an hard time. What you said is probably true in most cases.

The soldering iron is to heat the hose enough so it will come off of the injector easier. I never use that technique. Putting heat to something that has gasoline in it is not something I generally think about doing. I cut the hose just above the barb and cut the rest off with an exacto type blade. Be careful not to cut the injector or yourself. conedodger, you haven't worked a lot with the EFI cars, have you?

That's not a factory cable. If you do get one from the junkyard, make sure it has those three pigtails and that they get hooked up to wherever those three are connected. And if it still has an insulator like the one I posted make sure to get that too.

This is a picture of a spare factory cable I have for my 810. Note the two pigtails. Yours should have something similat to those. A cable from an 82 would work as long as it has the same connections as the one presently in your car.

Is it a solenoid or a relay? As I recall, there were two relays for the electronic fuel pump starting with 1973 Modification Plus Program and continuing through the 260Z. I'm pretty sure there would have been an electronic pump if you have the relays so someone might have removed it. Nowdays, I'm basically a 280Z guy but I've heard many 240Z owners say that their cars run just fine without the electric pump. Especially once they lose the flat tops.

All of mine, including the one on my 64 pickup look like your second picture. The one in the first picture looks like the type found on later cars like Sentras, etc.

Well that explains it because, IIRC that part doesn't show up in the microfiche and is only vaguely mentioned in FSM as a 'mounting damper' with no description. Years ago, my cousin, who is an airline mechanic, saw the one from my car while it was sitting on the bench and said "What's that, some kind of an NVH device"? Then he explained to me what that meant. I hadn't heard the term since then until you said it today.

Might want to replace the 'belt-arrester differential torque' as Nissan calls it, while you're in there. They're usually broken or at least stretched to the point where they really don't do what they were designed to do. Jeff: kudos to you for knowing the name of that item (NVH weight), few people do. Although it would be more a NVH 'damper' than a weight. For those of you that don't get my rambling, NVH damper=Noise/Vibration/Harshness damper. That's the metal thing that bolts to bottom of the differential crossmember. Most S30s I've seen don't even have them either because they've been lost in the shuffle over the years or never there to begin with.

Just looked it up. 24110-P9100 $64.40 list. The factory cable has connections on it necessary for an 83ZX that wouldn't be on a generic auto parts store cable.

A 1983 Nissan 280ZX positive battery cable? I don't think so.

Does this help?

From the techtip you linked to: Sometimes the use of a "fancy tool" is the only way to prevent misajustment which can lead to other problems. I wouldn't touch the AFM adjustment on either of my cars without my exhaust analyzer. These systems can be set way lean and still idle smooth so that's really not an indication of the air fuel ratio.

What did you use to read your AFM's air fuel ratio?

If you've checked the connections then the problem could only be the guage or the sender. I'd kind of lean toward the sensor since I had a similar problem with the one in my 810 a few years back and it turned out to be the sensor.

Colonel Sanders was highly overrated. He wasn't even ever really a Colonel.

Does it run yet?

There might be someting to that. I saw 810 2dr. #1442 in the in the junkyard about 5 years ago and it was the same code 609 brown as mine #1443. And these are 1979s. Could just be coincidence but I think the real coincidence is that I came across it.

According to what I've read in the ZX manuals it comes out forward, digital or analog. After removing the steering wheel, combination switch, lower covers, unplugging the harness and AC vacuum tube, and removing the instrument console bracket covers.

Don't have one to look at but, according the both the microfiche and the Nissan Fast program, in the 'ICA' column, there is no interchangability. My take on that is, having seen both FSMs and all 74-78 factory AC systems, is that Nissan carried over the illistrations from the 74 260Z FSM to the 75 280Z FSM because the 76-78 FSM illustrations match your picture #2. You know, the kind of stuff that has 78 owners looking for the EFI main relay under the driver's side dash:)

Yep. That's how I did warm starts in my 810 when the check valve was bad until I fixed it.

Does it starts okay if the engine is cold? But under those conditions it's hard to start and takes a while to smooth out? That sounds like the fuel pump check valve isn't holding and the pressure drops. Then the pressure has to build up when you start it before it will the engine will smooth out.