dogma420

Haynes manual: 1. Remove Transmission 2. Reinstall Transmission Heh

That is not a factory weld; more than likely it is fine, as it isn't in a stress point (as far as I can tell)....you should probably do some detective work, and try to figure out what might've caused it, but would just go ahead and install it and 'test' it for a few thousand miles....if it passes, it's ok. Just 2 cents

Don't want to disapoint you man, but stuff like 'matching engine #s' doesn't really apply to Datsuns. It might apply to a corvette or a camaro/mustang, but I don't think it will apply to a Datsun if ever so don't worry about it. Also, any Z manufactured after August is considered the next year rig. Yours is NOT considered a 1970 rig. I have a 9/71 240z and it is most definitely a '72. So I would modify your rig all you want, cause the 'classic 70' is only until about July or August of 70. Arguments? Start now! Just letting you know, the 1970 240z all numbers match might be something to do, but unless you scam someone, this is never going to be something that your 71 is. Just my 2 cents, and sorry, wasn't trying to sound like a d***, Dogma

Howdy guys, just wondering if anyone had bought a set of MSA sway bars for the 2nd gen 240z and if so, does the rear sway bar mount to the suspension....I don't want to buy a set that makes me drill any holes (er rust) in the floorpan. MSA people are usually dolts on the phone, and will say whatever.... ....so thanks for an answer in advance, and Z u L8r!

10 years old, only about 500 miles on it. Been sitting in a box in a dry garage for last 10 years or so. From a 74 260z USA non california car, the big bumper style 260z. Was $400+ from Nissan. Best offer

10 years old, only about 500 miles on it, was like $350 from Nissan when I got it. Has been sitting in a box in a dry garage for last 10 years. Best offer.

Howdy guys, I'm ready to buy a set of beefy sway bars, only have the front stock on my 72.... I am interested only in getting a rear sway bar that mounts to the suspension, that doesn't require any holes to be drilled in the chassis....heh, my car has enough rust holes in it already! Do the MSA sway bars come like this? Any help would rock, thanks guys. --dog

I've bought many many $$$ of parts from MSA. You can trust them. If you ever have a problem, they'll work something out, they want to keep your business. They just started making a new 240 fuse box that uses the newer blue/red/yellow push in, pull out fuses like on newer cars, it has the same wiring harness plugins, so it doesn't require anything but snapping it in and screwing the fuse box down. That's what I'd get, get rid of the old style fuses, unless of course, you are restoring to original. my 2 cents. Dog

Does the MSA rear sway bar for a 72 240z mount to the diff or to the chassis? I am interested in getting front/rear and I want the rear to mount without drilling holes thanks in advance

that's how it can be....wouldn't worry about it...something that helps when first putting it on is to dowse it with hairspray, makes it really slippery putting it in, and then when the hairspray dries it's like glue.....unless the item is oem, you will probably have a gap, no biggie, just make sure it's clamped down good!

well, if it's recirulating ball and not rack and pinion, i would look into getting the out side parts of a zx that are different (the 83 turbo at the least had rack and pinion)....i would try and mate a 280z rack on it.... ....lots and lots of work it appears, but doable..... a lot of the zxs had recirculating ball steering (like a gm truck).....

once it starts, you are pretty much out of luck

well hey, that's incredible man....good for you, your baby does look good compared to before. Enjoy her now, more than ever!!!!!! Long live the z.....

how'd they get that 4200 figure? hard to believe a 280 is worth that much to insurance...don't mean to argue, but a '84 300zx in perfect shape is $2000 to insurance....

Your insurance gave you $3900 for a 280z? Wow, hey, what company do you use? That's a great price....

yeah, beandip, i hear ya. Luckily, i just send for my tags every 2 years with my 72....it wouldn't pass with the slightly blown head gasket! .

Mine's just set to 4:20 and it is never off.

most of the white is vinyl, it wipes real easy if it gets dirty. No more dirty than black, and then once a year you bleach bleach bleach.

well, headers are no different than the rest of the exhaust, they rust from the inside out, and have to be replaced just like the rest of the exhaust eventually. It may require thought regarding a new header, good luck, dog

Thanks Steve, and yeah, it looks more like your car's color normally, but yeah, the pictures always kinda look different. I'll take a picture of the inner fender / air filter housing next to each and post soon. Later all, have a good day, Dog

i just updated my avatar with my personal rig, datsun red 110....but it is orange, not red. much more red than my old avatar however. This is the air cleaner housing color.

Exactly, my car is the same color as the avatar above.....you have to say it looks orange, and not 'red'. I'm going to take some pictures this weekend, along with the paint code sticker under the hood, and some pictures of the fender with the air filter housing (so you can see they're the same color)....maybe that will stop this 'argument'.... But it is 110, cause I told jochem's i need code 110, and he said 'i have the code for mixing that' and didn't even say it was orange in nature, and that's what i got.