Murph

Thanks for the advice. That's pretty much my plan at a minimum. I'll be avoiding a rebore if I can as this is supposed to be a "quick freshen up".....so don't wanna pour in too many $. But like you said, there's no point if it's going to die in 6 months.

Z Kid: With mine right, it's only the tiniest ridge. You can only just catch a finger nail on it. It's also only the one side of one cylinder. My thinking was that a hone should be enough to remove it. However, really I don't have any experience in this area so can't know for sure.

Hey Ray. Same deal here really. I'm rebuilding an L26 and have the same problem that there is a slight ridge in the top of one of the cylinders. Everything else on the car I pulled the motor from suggests that it's a low km car....but still just a little worried about this block. Either way I'll be needing to get it honed, so I figure I'll get them to measure the bores and give me their opinion. What have you heard so far regarding having a slight wear ring at the top of a cylinder?

Looks legit to me.....I'd be surprised if such a setup couldn't push out that sort of power.

That's purposely misinterpreting my comment. I think I need not explain.

This post can be deleted if need be. Carl: One point I was trying to get across in my post is that dynos should NOT be used for bragging rights. You simply can't compare the results of one dyno to another, even if it's the same model. Dynos are a tuning tool plain and simple. If they're used as a tuning tool then it really doesn't matter if one reads higher than another. All you should need to know if how a mod changed your cars power output. As for the american dynos reading higher, go do some searching, I don't have time. Shouldn't be too hard to find.

240ZX: As san-maru was saying, it's quite well know that if you put a given car on an aussie dyno, then on an american dyno, you'll always get the higher figure on the american dyno. Really, remembering that a dyno should be a tuning tool, to compare powerouts as you change things on your car, then it doesn't matter. I mean you can even compare the figures between the aussie dynos. Eg, Dynodynamics will always read higher than the DynoLog by around 15% or more. Dynojet > Dynodynamics > DynoLog

I'd like to know the same. Anyone? 280ZX?

Also try changing the gearbox oil if you haven't already.

Another 411 Bluebird for sale. This one looks damn neat. Someone wanna lend me $2500? http://www.ozdat.com/classifieds/view_image.php?image_id='2235' http://www.ozdat.com/classifieds/view_image.php?image_id='2236' http://www.ozdat.com/classifieds/view_image.php?image_id='2237' http://www.ozdat.com/classifieds/view_image.php?image_id='2238'

Very nice! Did anyone get any photos of the bluebirds.....I'd be very interested to see them.

Jim, they look sorta like the rims on my sunny, which are 14x6 like yours. As far as I know they are from a 200B SX. I'd take a bet and say you have the same.

After reading this I've just made the switch from a sewing machine oil in the dashpot, to the mix that he describes... It's like a whole new bloody car! Hello throttle response! Very happy here.

Biased comparison anyone? Lets see. They don't list requiring any cleaning agent for rust bullet. Bull $^!#. Of course you need to clean it. When using POR15, metal ready is only required if you're painting onto clean/fresh metal. If painting onto a rusted surface it's not required. Lastly POR15 only requires a top coat if it's in a spot where it is exposed to direct sunlight. Seriously, where are you going to use it on your car that will be exposed to direct sunlight and wouldn't get painted over anyway?

Also that the american dynos are somewhat optimistic with their outputs.

They have a different lenth to the two seaters.

Interesting. Sort of similar thing with my zed. Ever since I've had it it really doesn't charge much. I have to charge the battery once a week or so. Last weekend after I charged it I adjusted the voltage reg so it'd hold 14.V and thought my issues would be over. But no. It'll hold ~13V in the day, but at night it's back down under ~12.5V. My ammeter doesn't work so no idea when it's charging/drawing power from the battery. In your case anyway, I'd crack open the regulator and just check that the little "prong"/contact isn't binding on anything. Otherwise it's likely to be a wiring problem.

Thanks guys. It's for a mates car, he's just after one of them. I'll pass on the address.

Any one happen to have one laying around or know someone that does? Gimme a yell. Thanks, Justin

Two of my mates have R32s, one a GTS-t one a GT-R. The GT-R has run a 11.6 @ 118mph on stock turbos, stock internals. Both of them are good solid reliable cars that cop a beating....and damn good fun.