inline6

Did some more researching and it seems I should look for a bell housing from either a 280Z/280ZX: Standard 5-speed for 1977–1978 280Z and 1979–1983 280ZX models. Here is a picture of one:

Thanks for the information @EuroDat. Question for you - having read this at the link that follows: "Here's one I haven't seen mentioned before; the reverse gear switch is located about 22mm further back on my F4W71B than on the FS5W71B or C. Since I didn't realize this until after I chose the 4 speed bell housing to modify (it was already out of the car), I had to drill and tap a new hole in the side of the case to make my reverse switch work. If you're using a 5 speed 71B bell housing, this is not a concern." https://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/Transmission2.htm Does the four speed bell housing have a "boss" in the casting that can be drilled and tapped for the necessary location change of the reverse switch? Or, at the correct location, is there just "thin" wall of the bell housing casing? It looks to me like there is no boss there in the 4 speed bell housing, so that is why I decided to look for a 280ZX bell housing (FS5W71B).

I have a 280z left door window. Let me know if you still need one. I can get more info and pictures, etc.

I have one in the classifieds section if you still need one. $100 - https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/69761-original-1970-71-fiberglass-headlight-bezelhousing-left-side-100-plus-shipping/?_rid=2858

I want a 280ZX bell housing - needed for installing a 240SX transmission in my car. Thanks. Garrett

You don't see one like this very often: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-382/

This is the correct part for the US spec 1970 and 71 Datsun 240z. Metal ones were introduced for the 1972 model year. This one has some small cracks that will need to be repaired... a relatively easy thing to do by grinding down the cracked areas and adding new fiberglass cloth, resin, and finishing with body filler. Two of the three studs have been repaired (the old ones were removed and replaced with new - very well done). Contact me with for more info, additional pictures, etc. - Garrett

Great fan for use with V8 powered Z's. I ended up going another route for my cooling. Available new for $129 - I'll let this one go for $70 plus shipping (capped at a max of $20). Save a little here, save a little there - buy this one and save! https://www.amazon.com/Demfec-Compatible-30102042-VA08-AP71-LL-53A/dp/B0F43F92RW Contact me for info, additional pics, etc. - Garrett

These forged, light weight rods were in an engine that threw a rod 10 years ago when I was at Road Atlanta. They are Eagle rods - Toyota 3SGTE (89 and later Celica All-trac, 91-97 MR2 Turbo) with 3/8" ARP 2000 Bolts. These are the rods that are used in the 3.0 liter stroker motors - you have the rod journals of the stock crankshaft offset ground for these rods... and use forged pistons. These were checked out by my engine builder and were fine. Looks like they currently retail for around $400 a set of four. I will sell them for $225 plus shipping. Want more info or pictures? Just ask - Garrett.

Hello, Anyone here have a Euro 240Z distributor to sell to me? Garrett

@Patcon have you had them apart at any point? If so, is it possible you mixed parts? The left and the right have slightly different internal parts. The bolt thing at the left side in this picture is different for the high vs low horn. You may need to have someone hold the horn button down while you slowly turn the screw until it makes some noise. Also, the horns won't work unless you ground them at the mounting tab.

Can you check the date codes on your left door glass? Do you know how to read them? Or, can you get pictures of the etching (where it says "temperlite", etc.) https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/68773-parts-wanted-need-a-240z-driver-door-glass/?_rid=2858 Also, can you provide a picture of the alternator?

Good question - these are the standard sized original equipment pistons. If anyone has interest, I can take the time to confirm with pictures of measurements, or further pictures showing condition, etc.

How to Modify Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine, original edition: has a blemish on the back cover, excellent otherwise: Price is $20 plus shipping How to Hotrod and Race Your Datsun, original edition: In nearly excellent condition: Price is $100 plus shipping How to Restore Datsun Z-Car, original edition I believe (copyright is 1990) - binding shows some light detachment - all info on pages is intact. Overall condition is good Price is $10 plus shipping PM me with questions. ---Garrett

Price: I am unsure how to assign a value to this item. I will set it at $300 plus shipping; however, the price is negotiable. PM me with questions --- Garrett More information about Procar seats that are currently available for purchase new can be found here at this link

Price is $1 plus shipping I have several spares leftover from disassembly of an N42 L28 engine. Exhaust manifold in very good condition - all down pipe studs intact ($1 plus shipping): Miscellaneous original engine parts (cam gear, head bolts, dip stick, oil pickup tube, oil pan reinforcement plates, etc. $1 plus shipping for everything in this box, or let me know if you just want one item to save on shipping. Stock pistons (dished) and rods $1 plus shipping: Two pairs of L28 engine mounting brackets ($1plus shipping for each pair). Alternator mounting brackets $1 plus shipping for one upper and lower pair. PM me with questions. ----Garrett

Price is $20 plus shipping This pair of original dash vents are in very good condition. PM me with questions. ---Garrett For your reference, reproductions are available for $40 each if you prefer to go that route.

Price is $20 plus shipping Unused Allison (Crane) XR700 Electronic Ignition. PM me with questions. ---Garrett

Price is $10 plus shipping for both brackets These are original Datsun Competition exhaust system brackets. Figured I would see if anyone needs them before I toss them in the trash. PM me with questions.

Price is $50 plus shipping Stock 1971 240z carburetor Heat Shield - I think this is what you need for the 1970-1972 Z's. PM me with questions. ---Garrett In very good condition:

Price for the set is $400 for this complete set of seat belts Complete, original Datsun 240z seat belt set from 9/70 in what appears to be very good condition. The webbing is is excellent condition. Chrome looks very good. Buckles are fully functional. Even mounting hardware is present! PM me with questions, additional picture requests, etc.

Price for the radiator, mounting brackets and hardware is $50 plus shipping Originally purchased from and now discontinued by Jagsthatrun.com. This radiator features a core with two extra large cooling passages. You get the radiator, mounting brackets and mounting hardware. Not pictured below but pictured here are the mounting brackets: http://jagsthatrun.com/products/v8-datsun-radiator-mounting-bracket-kit See this PDF supplied by JTR for more information about this radiator: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2586/1438/files/V8-DatsunZ-Cooling-System.pdf?16627445939611620968

Price is $450 plus shipping for both wheels Description: These two wheels are lightly used - straight - zero offset for Datsun Z cars. PM me if you have questions. --Garrett For reference, 16 X 7 Panasports are still available new for about $380 each plus shipping here: https://www.sportsandclassics.com/parts/non-british/datsun-non-british/datsun-roadster-2000-fairlady-16x7-panasport-z-light-wheels-new-production/

Well, I certainly could run a new, and completely separate wire from the coil "-" through the engine bay, through the firewall, and to the existing yellow wire to run the Speed Hut tach. But, the existing B/W and G/W wires are already routed in the stock wiring harness from and to where I need to go, and are made completely redundant by doing so. Why not repurpose one of them and save the time and effort to run another wire? Looking at @SteveJ's wiring diagram that shows after modifications, I see that he chose the B/W that originally went from the coil "+" to the stock tach 4 prong connector as the wire to repurpose for use with the Speed Hut gauge. Of the two original wires (B/W and G/W), only the G/W wire has no purpose after this modification. I've got some other wiring that I need to figure out how to route as well. For example, I need to wire in a coolant temperature sensor and harness for dual electric fans, and the wiring for oil pressure, oil temperature and coolant temperature senders. So, I will be thinking about how best to route those through the engine compartment and where necessary, to the gauges in the dashboard. I am set for information I needed to wire up the tach - thanks to all who responded!

Thanks for the information. So, let me know if my rewording here is accurate: there is a B/W wire going from the ignition switch (routed through the factory wiring harness) to the Ballast Resistor. On the other side of the Ballast Resistor, there is a G/W wire (which again is routed through the factory wiring harness) to the 4 prong tach connector in the dashboard. This is the "re-route" to the back of the Tach (not the B/W back to the Tach). At that connector, the G/W wire connects to one side of the loop in the Tach (white wire with black band which connects in some way with the white wire with the red band - thus the loop). Continuing... in the 4 prong connector, the white wire with the red band connects to another B/W wire. This B/W is again, routed through the factory wiring harness and is connected to Coil "+". So... I am not using the ballast resistor any longer. I have a CraneHi6 aftermarket ignition and a high voltage coil (for mulitiple spart discharge requirements of the ignition). So, if I take the B/W wire that was connected to the ballast resistor, and connect it directly to the Coil "+", I am simply moving the B/W wire which is coming from the ignition and moving it to the coil "+"... directly. Doing so frees up both the B/W and the G/W wires (which already are routed through the factory harness). Question: could I not just attach either of those freed up wires to coil "-"... and then connect whichever of those I choose to the single yellow wire for the Speed Hut gauge? At least that way, I don't have to route a stand alone wire... and I can repurpose one of the now "extra" wires already present. My 12/70 Tach connector (4 prong) definitely has a RL wire in it (I edited my post and added a picture of the connector). That wire is "supposed to be" green according to the wiring diagrams, but it isn't. No doubt, this is a difference when comparing "earlier" 240z's to later ones. I know the gauge lighting (IL = illumination?) is RL as well (both in the wiring diagram and in my car). So, yeah... that certainly added to my confusion.