Carl Beck

Oops ... sorry - should have checked the ebay listing.. It's a Factory Service Bulletin... "Introduction of..." sorry, Carl B.

Hi Don: What is a "Dealer" Manual? Can you supply a picture? thanks, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://zHome.com

Hi 240ZX - I'd give them $4001.00 and out bid you ;-). I agree that there are always the unknowns and certainly agree that the cost of them can add up quickly. However close inspection of the specific car would quickly revel that it was as advertised, and in need of very little. Seriously, if you could find a solid 71 240-Z, with little to no rust in the body - with matching numbers and mostly original parts - you'd have to pay at least $5,500.00 East of the Mississippi... and it could otherwise be a real rag. (meaning it needs paint and body work, interior work, lots of detailing, new chrome, weather stips/seals etc. etc. etc). But let's say you did find a solid car, with matching numbers for $4K. Around here today, you'd have to disassemble the car yourself - and take the car to a local body shop for body work and paint.... a decent job would cost $5K, not to mention the hours you'd spend to take it apart and putting it back together. The repaint on that car was done with all glass out, all chrome off etc - but they stopped short of repainting the engine bay - it was in pretty good shape in it's original form. Subtract that $5K from the $8,400.00 selling price - and that lucky buyer actually paid $3,400.00 for a very sold, mostly original, matching number car. Subtract the re-chromed bumpers ($800.00), the new carpet kit (??$125.00) and he actually paid closer to $2,500.00 for the car!! The car also came with the original hub caps and wheels (not too common to find on any car today)... even used they would sell for $125.00 each.. so subtract that and the new buyer actual paid closer to $2,000.00 for the car!! Oh yes, that perfect dash.. in a 71... another $800.00 to $1200.00 today... Heck, the car itself was all but a gift! At $9,500.00 this car would still have been a good deal by todays standards, if you wanted to buy a pretty much finished car, rather than a project car. FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL http://ZHome.com

Hi Guys: I know the seller.... why he was willing to end the auction, once bidding started and let it go for the "Buy-it-now" price is somewhat beyond me. At one point he said he was thinking of changing his mind about even selling it. zhead240 - your fellow Canadian will be VERY pleased with this car at that price. No question that if he wants to drive it around the continent, he'll have to replace the original belts/hoses etc.... but he will find that a couple of grand and a few weekends work will put that car in all but "as new" condition. I know a buyer that was willing to bid/pay more for the car if necessary - and like me, he was surprised that the car could still be purchased out-right for the Buy-it-now price, once bids were received. We both thought that once bids were received on an item, the Buy-it-now price no longer applied. Turns out that if the seller lists both a reserve price, but does not put in the first "starting bid"... then the seller can accept the Buy-it-now price any time it's offered, even if 50 people had already bid... We learned something new on this one... FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Oops...sorry for the confusion - looks like Alan cleared that up already at <a href=http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19816>http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19816</a>

This is the car that was on ebay a little while ago - - - the one with the reworked VIN... that was discussed... it was withdrawn from sale after so many people wrote the seller about the phony VIN etc. What was that thread??? Carl B.

Hi Richard1 (everyone) I can only relate my experience... My son had a 72 Olds Cutlass Supreme. Restored and professionally appraised at the time at $8,500.00. He of course had lot more money in it than that, not to mention a couple years work. A "Reverend" ran a Red Light and took the nose off my son's Cutlass. The Reverend was insured with GIECO.. he was sighted/ticked for the Red Light... went to Court and was found guilty. GIECO's "Adjustor" offered my son $1,500.00 to total the Cutlass out. My son submitted the Appraisal (at the time less than two months old), plus about ten pages of "For Sale" ad's that reflected the average market value of restored Cutlass Supremes in Florida at the time. On average they were "asking" in the $6,500.00 to $8,500.00 range. All this meant "NOTHING" to the Adjustor - he said, take the offer or sue us. He knew that the limits in the Small Claims Court here in Florida were $5K. He knew that if there was no "personal injury" involved, my son could not recover "Legal Fee's" in addition to actual damages; but would have to pay his Attorney out of the money awarded if he prevailed in Court... which would leave about $2K at the most. All this dragged on for about six months.. and the Adjustor finally offered $2,500.00 to settle the claim - and my son gave up and took it. Letters to the State Insurance Commissioner did no good in this case, letters from my son's Attorney went in the trash at the Claims Adjustor's desk. The "Only" way to protect yourself - when you own a higher value Classic, Collectible or Special Interest Automobile is to have it fully insured on your own "Agreed Value" Insurance Policy. Yes - if one buys a 30 year old car with 5K miles... one can expect to put a few $K into it, if one wants to take it out and drive it on longer trips. On top of that, it all depends on how well cared for the car was - while being stored. Many cars in good Collections - are very well cared for.. started, ran, fresh gas etc etc - and just as many are just left to "sit" unattended. The one's that have been left to sit will have "issues" that will need to be resolved.. and that usually costs both time and dollars. Properly awaking one of these Sleeping Beauties, that has been left to just sit completely idle has to be done carefully and correctly - if you want to avoid problems. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi deadflo (everyone): Sorry for the confusion - I shouldn't have used that term here. The "P81" was used initially on the ZX with Power Steering. Nissan Part Numbers 11041-P8100 See: <a href=http://ZHome.com/zcarfilesJPEG/P81HeadSM.jpg TARGET=NEW>http://ZHome.com/zcarfilesJPEG/P81HeadSM.jpg</a> Brian's site is filled with useful data/info - but as usual, there are mistakes/errors there as well. (we all have them on our sites). Brian writes: >The E31 is an uncommon, desirable head that came on early 1970 240's. It's chambers >were high-quench designs, however the valves were smaller than the 260 and 280* heads. >Probably about 10,000 were made. But after 35 years, most of them are long gone, having >been over-collected and used up in racing. 42cc chambers I believe. Actually the head with casting E31 was standard on the Series I (69/70), Series II (71) and a few came marked as E88, when they actually were the castings of the E31 on the early Series III (72 Model Year) DATSUN 240-Z's imported into the North American Market. Not "uncommon" at the time, something less than 46,000 of them made their way here. ( I think Brian got that 10K number from reported sales for calendar year 1970 here in the US). The only reason the E31 was used for "racing" in the early days... was because that was the only head available here, that could be used in C-Production/Stock classes in 70/71. Both BRE and BSR switched to the newer E88 heads when they became available on the Series III models in late 1971 (72 Model Year Z's). The E88 had better flow characteristics and only slightly lower compression. It's quite easy to raise the compression using almost any of the L24/26/28 heads.. it's the design of the runners from the valves, to the intake/exhaust Ports that are cast into the head that are very hard to change.. the size, shape, length of the runners, the radius of the curves in it... all have a great impact on flow rates. You can polish these runners, and to a degree increase their diameters.. but it's not cost effective to attempt to change their routing and the radius of their bends. So you start with good "runners" and you can easily modify combustion chambers. Brian writes: >The E88 came on the 1971-73 240s and '74 260s, in 2 versions, small valve and large valve >on the 260. It's chambers are the same cc size as later N42 and 47 heads. Despite what some >older books say, I can't see why the E88 would have any performance advantage over any other head. Actually as mentioned above - the E88's started on the 72 Model Year 240-Z's. There were at least 3 versions all with casting number E88. One on the 72 240Z, a different one on the 73 240Z (combustion chamber shape), and a different one on the 260Z (larger exhaust valve). Here is where it can get confusing and I most likely shouldn't have used the "P81" designation here... Just as the heads all with E88 casting numbers were actually different, so were there differences in the heads with N47 cast on them. The P81 mentioned has a casting number of N47... but it is a different Part Number and the internal runners are different. I would guess that Brian couldn't see why the E88 would have any performance advantage over any other head, because he didn't have a Flow Bench, nor could he see the internal design of the runners. These differences may only matter if you are going to the extreme in head work - Jim Wolf uses the different Part Number designations to assure he and his customers are talking about the exact same head (regardless of the common casting number)... when they plan the applications and necessary modifications. You will note he also uses "N33", "P50" in addition to the original E88, as a way of telling exactly which E88 head they will be using/modifying and selecting cam's for etc. See: <a href=http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/128combo.html TARGET=NEW>http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/128combo.html</a> Brian Writes: >The larger valve N42 came on the 1975-76 280Z. 280Zs didn't use a catalytic converter until 1977, >and the head came with softer bronze valve seats for use with leaded gas.Many people like these for >performance because of it's square exhaust ports. And as a easy mod, putting it on a flattop L28 >motor puts compression in the mid 10's. That may be a little misleading... actually the E88 on the 260Z got the larger exhaust valve (35mm vs 33mm) on the 74 Model Year Z's. The 75 280Z's with the N42 got the larger Intake valve (44mm vs 42mm). Until 77 all the Z heads in North America used the valve seats for leaded gasoline, the hardened steel valve seats were standard from the 77 Model Year forward (it wasn't only the N42). Also, as I recall every time we've figured the compression ratio using the N42 with flat top pistons we got something closer to 9.6:1 not the mid 10's. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA http://ZHome.com

You can join the SEMA Action Network and get involved in positive legislation for our auto hobby: See: <a href=http://www.semasan.com/ TARGET=NEW>http://www.semasan.com/</a> Related to the subject at hand: URGENT LEGISLATIVE ALERT SEMA Pro-Hobbyist Inoperable Vehicle Bill Becomes Law in Kentucky (Washington, D.C., Apr. 1, 2005) - - SEMA, the Specialty Equipment Market Association, announced that Kentucky Governor Ernie Fletcher signed into law model legislation drafted by the association to place limits on public nuisance ordinances that prevent automobile collectors from pursuing their hobby.** Under the new law, junked, wrecked or inoperable vehicles, including parts cars, stored on private property would only be required to be maintained out of ordinary public view.* It would apply to owners or occupants of land in a city, county, or unincorporated area.* States and localities often enforce strict property or zoning laws that include restrictions on visible inoperable automobile bodies and parts.* Removal of these vehicles from private property is enforced through local nuisance laws with minimal or no notice to the owner.* Jurisdictions enact these laws based on the notion that inoperable vehicles are eyesores that adversely affect property values.* Many such laws are drafted broadly, allowing for the confiscation of vehicles being repaired or restored. “We believe that clear legal distinctions must be drawn between an owner using private property as a dumping ground and a vehicle enthusiast working to maintain, restore or construct a vehicle,” said SEMA VP Government Affairs Steve McDonald.* “This new Kentucky law as written by SEMA provides safeguards for hobbyists to work on collector vehicles on private property and establishes reasonable provisions that vehicles be located out of public view.” The new law applies to automobile collectors, defined as those who collect and restore motor vehicles whether as a hobby or a profession.* To comply, collectors would maintain hobby cars out of ordinary public view, a sight line within normal visual range by a person on a public street or sidewalk adjacent to the private property.* This provision would be achieved by means of suitable fencing, trees, shrubbery, etc. “Kentucky lawmakers were eager to work with us and the state’s hobbyist community to create reasonable and fair compromise legislation permitting outdoor storage of hobby cars and parts if they are maintained in such a manner as not to constitute a health and safety hazard.* We are especially indebted to Representative Mike Denham for spearheading this effort.”* FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Stephen (everyone): It would take a very serious and time consuming effort to fully "Judge" the car in question. But looking at the ad I'd guess it would fall more in the category #2 range. (not having the original tires/wheels alone would most likely knock it out of the #1 category). FYI - the Old Cars Price Guide by Kruse, defines #1 thru #6 categories as follows: #1 EXCELLENT - Restored to current maxium professional standards of quality in every area, or perfect original with components operating and appearing as new. A 95+ point show car that is not driven. In national show judging a car in #1 conditon is likely to win top honors in it's class. In a sense it has ceased to be an automobile and has become an object of art. It is transported to shows in an enclosed trailer, and, when not being shown it is stored in a climate controlled facilty. It is not driven. There are very few #1 cars. #2 FINE: - Well-restored, or a combination of superior restoration and excellent original. Also an extreanely well maintained original showing very miminal wear. Except for the very closest of inspection a #2 vehicle may appear as a #1. The #2 vehicle will take the top award in many judged shows, except when squared off aginist a #1 example in its own class. It may also be driven 800 - 1,000 miles each year to shows, on tours, and simply for pleasure. #3 - Very Good: Completely operable original or "older restoration" showing wear. Also, a good amateur restoration, all presentable and servicable inside and out. Plus combinations of well-done restoration and good operable components; or a partially restored car with all parts necessary to complete it and/or valuable NOS parts. This is a 20footer - that is, from 20 feet away it may look perfect. But as we approach it, we begin to notice that the paint may be getting a little thin in spots from frequent washing and polishing. Looking inside we might detect some wear on the drivers seat, foot pedals, and carpet. The chrome trim while still quite presentable, may have lost the sharp mirror like reflective quality it had when new. All systems and equipment on the car are in good operating order. In general, most of the vehicles seen at car shows are #3's..... #4 Good - A driveable vehicle needing no or only minor work to be functional. Also, a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. All components may need restoration to be excellent, the car is mostly usable "as is". This is a driver - It may be in the process of restoration or its owner may have big plans, but even from 20 feet away, there is no doubt that it needs a lot of help.. #5 Restorable - Needs complete restoration of body, chassis, and interior. May or may not be running, but isn't weathered, wrecked, and/or stripped to the point of being useful only for parts. This car needs everything. It may not be operable, but it si essentially all there and has only minor surface rust, if any rust at all. While presenting a real challenge to the restorer, it won;t have him doing a lot of chasing for missing parts. #6 Parts Car - May or may not be running, but is weathered, wrecked, and/or stripped to the point of being useful primarily for parts. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Gang, interesting car at any rate.. Why would anyone want a 77 280Z with 5K miles and who would be willing to pay $25? Collectors... it's just that simple. Some people enjoy collecting the most beautiful and most rare objects, that most other people can only dream about owning. "Collector Quality Automobiles" have been all the rage among many Collectors almost from the beginning of the Automobile. Anyone that loves the Z Cars should hold a high regard for the people that are now adding them to their Collections. Why?... Because for decades to come, they are the people that will have the cars we all look to - for answers to our questions of originality, and to take our children and grandchildren to see. These cars will be the most perfect original examples that can be found... One rung lower on the scale will be perfectly "restored" examples... but they will always be one rung lower and always sell for a bit less (even if it costs more to produce them!). These are the Z Cars that will move from private collections to public museum's.. Vicki - Yes, I hooked a couple of friends together and the 78 Black Pearl is now in a Collection in Atlanta. It traded hands well North of the $30K she wanted for it a few years ago. Who else would pay $25K for a 77 280Z with a real 5K miles?.... Almost anyone that has spent $50K trying to get a Classic, Collectible or Special Interest Car in anything near the condition of this "original" as it is presented to be. If it's clean, take it to any National Z Car Convention and it's a Gold Medallion Winner... Take it to any of the National Level Concours or Historic Car Show .. and it's a class winner. Take it anywhere and it will draw a crowd. Car Shows are actual FUN for many people. They get together with like minded people, swap war stories, ogle each others prize possessions... and yes in most cases they actually have examples of the same model that they like to drive. For them it isn't an either / or situation... But let's not kind ourselves either... Just because a #1 Collector Quality example sells for $25K or $40K.. that doesn't mean our #3 condition car will bring even half that amount... True #1 cars are very very very rare.. Usually traded in private sales, you almost never see them at auction nor on a Dealers Lot... I think we are starting to see some on e-bay, it's a great source of free adverting even if it doesn't sell there. Also keep in mind that if a serious Collector wants a specific car - they will gladly pay a very high premium just to get a reluctant owner to let it go... A willing seller on e-bay might expect quite a bit less.... and the seller of a standard 75-77 280Z won't get the interest of the serious Collectors that a limited production Black Pearl either. As someone else mentioned - if a buyer really wanted a 280Z in that color, and if they had to money to spend - it wouldn't be out of the question to see it bring $25K today if two or more of them showed up for the auction. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi ehanvey (everyone) I hope ehanvey got some useful information in response to his main question, even if there seems to be some conflicting and tangent inputs. I believe it would be a little more accurate to say that the engine block and head were the same between the 77/78 280Z and early 79 280ZX's. The 75/76 280Z's used the N42 square port head and the 77/78 280Z's used the N47 round port head. This was carried over into the initial months of 79... but then sometime during the production of that model year Nissan switched to the P81. A slight tangent... to the thread... did appear in the above quote and I don't want to hijack the main subject, nor get too far afield... but as it relates to the HP ratings used by Nissan.. if anyone is interested here is what I believe to be the case... See: <a href=http://ZHome.com/ZCMnL/tech/SAEHPRatings.htm TARGET=NEW>http://ZHome.com/ZCMnL/tech/SAEHPRatings.htm</a> SAE Gross Horse Power, SAE Horse Power and SAE Net Horse Power. Three Rating Systems - not two. FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

HI ehanvey: The base model 79 280ZX is lighter than the 78 280Z. The cd on the ZX is lower The 79 280ZX sat the all time sales record for the Z Car Line Personally if I were buying a 79-83 ZX today - I'd get the best, lowest mileage 83 280ZX Turbo I could find. I'd expect to pay well over $10K for it...(but of course I'd like to steal it for something closer to $5K ;-)... If I wanted one to drive - I'd be looking for that 82/83 ZX Turbo with less than 75K miles that I could buy for $5K to $6K from the original owner. (personally I like the 2+2 in this model as well). Basic 79 280ZX's with less than 80K miles are selling for $3,500.00 to $4,500.00.. here in Florida. Maybe less on the West Coast.. A 79 with 35K miles sold for $4,500.00 here last year.. after being on the market for 6 months with an "asking price" of $7,500.00. In General Terms: A "collectable" automobile is one that is considered to be worthy of being collected, protected and preserved by most automotive authorities. These could be future "Classic, Collectable, and Special Interest Cars" (note all with Capital "C"). Most automotive authorities consider all First, Second and a couple of Third Generation "Z"/"ZX" as very collectible at this point. Depending on their condition a few of these examples are now "Collector Cars" selling for well above the $20K price range. If you want a sense of what cars the automotive authorities consider to be currently "Collectable, Classic and Special Interest Automobiles" - simply pick up a copy of the Old Cars Price Guide or NADA Car's of Particular Interest Price Guide. Both these publications track the cars that most automotive experts, collectors and Collectors consider to be in that class. A "Collector" Quality automobile is one that is recognized by most automotive authorities as not only being a Classic, Collectable or Special Interest car, but being of such high quality that it would be judged by expert judges as being a #1 or #2 quality rating example. In the real "Collector" market (not only Z Car Enthusiasts)..COLLECTORS.. the advice from many experts for several years now has been to BUY Z's before they hit their peak values... Collectors have paid this year.... 78 280Z.... 600 mile.... sold for $40K 72 240Z...16K miles..... sold for $30K 70 Series I 32K miles.....sold for $25K 80 280ZX 10th AE.. 800miles....$25K Also several of the Vintage Z's from the Nissan Program have sold for $20K + this past year. Only the Datsun 240-Z is currently broadly recognized as being a true "Classic Car" in the Collector sense of the term. Most doubt that the 280ZX will ever reach that status. In general terms, the 79 - 83 280ZX has the same rock solid drive train as the first generation Z's, the body is a bit more rigid and they are over-all & all-round great cars. Styling is of course subjective - I personally like them a lot. The only downside could be the electronics in the digital dashs, future cost/availability of the ECU's, etc. Bottom line is - if it's a good deal and you like that specific car - buy it. If you would like to own and enjoy a 280ZX more or less as a collectible... look for an 82/83 280ZX Turbo with less than 80K miles, in overall excellent condition.. and buy one. It will cost a bit more initially, but hold more of it's resale value, may increase in value and will always be easier to resell if you have to. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://Zhome.com

I guess **** really didn't say he had the lowest mileage Z - but rather the lowest mileage 71 240-Z. A friend owns a 78 Black Pearl with something like 650 miles.. Unlike the car on e-bay however, it still has it's original tires, wheels etc. Makes one wonder why anyone would change the original tires, if they were trying to keep the car "original" and "very very low mileage".... it bothers me a bit when I see a car with 5K miles - and the original tires are gone... If I am paying the big bucks for 100% Original - not having the original tires a proof of actual mileage... would turn me off this one.. To easy to just disconnect the speedo on these old Z's.. If one took care of the car, you couldn't tell the difference between 5K miles and 12K or 15K... FWIW, Carl Carl B.

Hi Guys: Earlier there was some comments about SCCA's C-Production Class in 1969/70 etc. There seems to be some misunderstanding as to what cars were competing in C-Production 68-73. (caused me to go check my memory..) The Porsche 912's ran in E Production The Porsche 911's, and in 1970 the 914/6 ran in C- Production (not to be confused with the VW/Porsche 914). 1969 reigning National Champion in C Production was Peter Gregg in his Brumos Porsche 911. The Triumph TR-6's also ran in C-Production. (Bob Tullius) The Datsun 2000 Roadsters with the twin carb's ran in C Production. Just didn't want to leave anyone with the wrong impression - yes the Datsun 240-Z ran the 911's out of the class. Porsche jumped to 2.6 Liter in 74, many said it was done to get out of the same class the 240-Z's were in. ;-) FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Guys: This is - The Short Version (believe it or not) 1. Like Bryan, I wish the Morton comment had been phrased a bit differently, or written in an all together different manor. I fully understood what Mr. Morton was saying and took the comment within the context that it was presented.... but I still wish it had been phrased a bit differently because I knew that both Mr. Brock and Mr. Morton had earlier commented how little was done to the stock Z - to put it on the track. 2. I agree with Chris, it's a book well worth the money, but it has to be taken as a book about the story this author wanted to tell. Quite frankly it's a story that I found very interesting in part. It is not the concise history of the design and development of the Z Car - that we Z Fanatics wanted... but in many cases it is an inside view of at least some of the more current history of the Z. I was glad to see more coverage given to the early days of the Datsun Competition Dept. As well as the competition coverage in the appendix. Appreciate the information related to the Vintage Z's (a HUGE IDEA!!). I too liked the graphics, the layout and the print quality. From my perspective - the information about how the 350Z came about - is complete corporate speak. Those of us that lobbied Nissan Motors Ltd. and Nissan Motors USA for the rebirth of the Z, then tracked the progression closely... know it just didn't happen the way it's outlined in the book. 3. I too would like Shin Yoshikawa to do a book on the Z Car, with somewhat the same focus as he did for the Toyota 2000GT; and over the past year we have talked about it. Shin wants to do an article and model of the BRE Baja Z for the delPardo Racing Car Collection. So if things work out...maybe I'll be able to twist his arm a bit more on the subject. We both know that it can't cost $125.00 per copy however!! 4. Speaking of misquotes or things taken out of context - I am sorry that Alan has had the same experience with the "media"; I don't have to explain how easily and how badly your input to a writer of magazine articles or books gets so totally screwed up - when it winds up in print. If it hasn't happened to you, you just can't believe it. I am given to understand that this is all too common in today's media of all kinds. (maybe Goertz didn't say all the things that the media attribute to him). At least Mr. Evanow has downplayed the Goertz role and goes on to list the people responsible for the design of the 240-Z. Now at least we have a couple of books written in English that contain that information. 5. Mistakes and Misinformation. We could go page by page... quote the mistake or misinformation as we see it.. then supply the corrected information... or "caution comments"... However if we did that, we'd also have to do the same for all the books written, because they all have serious flaws... Rather - Lets just pick the three most grievous errors, that we would like to see corrected. I completely agree with Alan re the spelling of proper names, the captions not reflecting the car shown and Colin Shipway's book should never be a source/reference related to the 240-Z, However Brian Long's book IS listed on the same page as the "Sources" under the heading of "References". OK - my top three corrections: I. Page 26 - Goertz did NOT work on the design team that developed the Porsche 911.. he had nothing to do with it, never "worked for" Porsche. He did submit an unsolicited design to Dr. Porsche and it was outright rejected by Dr. Porsche in 1957 or 58 (it has been reported by Mr. Goertz both dates and as per his autobiography). Ferdinand "Butzi" Porsche did work with Mr. Goertz for some time however (between 57/58) and I'm sure he learned a lot about the process of design and refined his techniques during that period as well. However Porsche Design Project 901 was started in late 59. (I hasten to add that certain people that worked directly with Mr. Goertz, do believe his influence was strongly felt during the design of the 911. I can find nothing to support that opinion and have only Mr. Goertz own words upon which to form mine). Influence is one thing, but the claim so often repeated that Goertz "worked on", or was "responsible for", the design of the 911 is completely false.. but repeated in too many books and magazine articles. II. Page 17 - The Silvia is NOT an important forerunner to the Z... It was the end of the line for the old Fairlady roadster chassis. The important forerunner to the Z was the Datsun 510. A key to understanding this is found in the book "The Origin Of Competitive Strenght" by Akira Kawahara (1998). III. Page 26 - Yamaha did not take the Goertz design to Toyota (another Myth started by media conjecture). They showed the Yamaha A550X to Toyota only as an example of their ability to turn drawings into metal reality, with quick turn-around times. The Toyota 2000 GT was a clean slat design, by the design team from Toyota. There is still much question in my mind - as to who, when or if, the development of the Goertz inspired Nissan 2000GT (as delivered to Nissan)... was continued. It would seem that the Yamaha side of the joint project was evolved into the more fully developed Yamaha A550X. Goertz would lead us to believe he remained in contact with the design team at Yamaha after he left Nissan... but it's very vague. No one to date, has supplied the exact time at which the Yamaha A550X underwent its iterations and come to a final design. This is VERY important to know - if we are to understand what happened... I showed a picture of the Yamaha A550X to Mr. K this year, and ask him if he know what the car was. He said; "I've never seen it, but it's a nice looking car". See: <a href=http://zhome.com/History/Truth/A550Xvs240Z.htm TARGET=NEW>http://zhome.com/History/Truth/A550Xvs240Z.htm</a> The bottom line is - so far the book co-authored by Mr. Matsuo and Mr. Katayama is the most concise account of how the Z Car was created, it is just too short and we'd like to know more about the total corporate environment that nurtured the birth. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi KDMatt: As previously mentioned, Air Bags are a passive restraint system - intended to protect people who are not actively wearing a properly adjusted three point lap and shoulder belt. To date there is no evidence to suggest that the Air Bag offers any greater degree of safety, than using a three point lap and shoulder belt. There is some evidence that the Air Bags when inappropriately inflated, can do serious damage to people. (many children have been killed by them). The bumpers on the 240Z or on the 280Z would make no real difference in the end outcome of a 40 mph head on collision, as both would simply be pushed back to the engine. Although some might not be aware of it, providing some degree of safety in a crash has been not only a design goal but public law since 1968 here in the USA. The Datsun 240-Z like all cars in 1970 had to take and pass Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (FVMSS); one of which was a frontal impact test at 30 mph. See: <a href=http://ZHome.com/History/240ZSafety.htm TARGET=NEW>http://ZHome.com/History/240ZSafety.htm</a> On the one hand the 240-Z is pretty light - so you aren't carrying a lot of energy in the first place, on the other hand the uni-body is very light and doesn't offer much mass to both absorb the energy nor redirect it... Add 10mph to the above test, and the front tires would most likely be pushed farther back... but I would guess that you'd have a pretty good chance of living through it. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hello Alan (everyone): Due to the holiday here.... I'll be traveling and doing the "family things" today/tomorrow.. So I'll get back with you all after I return... regards, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Alan: I can see that the car is damaged... but please tell us the "story".. who are the people in the picture, where are they and what were they doing just before the road side stop .... and how did they get the car to begin with. thanks, Carl

As I understand it... A coil spring is designed to work under compression.. the "spring constant" is an expression of how much the spring will compress in length, when loaded with a specified weight (pounds of load per inch of deflection) in the middle 60% of it's length. Coil Springs hold a more or less constant rate, once they are compressed past their first 20% of free length, and before they reach 80% of their free length. In the first and last 20% of their length, their spring rates can vary greatly from the rate of the given spring constant. Higher spring rates (constants) will of course make the car ride more firmly. As the terms "ride quality" and "more" are pretty subjective... each person has to decide how "firm" a ride quality they can accept. Personally - given the super light weight of the 240/260Z's - I wouldn't want spring rates much more than 20% higher than stock, if I planned to drive it on the street. I would suggest that you find out what the spring constants are for any of the after-market springs - before you consider buying them, so you will have an apples to apples comparison. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

SuperDave: I think your measurements and calculations might be off just a little. According to the written spec.'s for the 240Z's.... the number of "active" coils is 8.5 on the 72 240-Z's. (10 is the total number) the outside diameter is 4.35 in. and the spring constant given by Nissan is 83 lbs/in for the front springs Nissan spec.'s show a Free Length of 15.2 inch and an installed height of 7.9 inch for the RF - when loaded with 604lbs. So 15.2-7.9 = 7.3 and 604/7.3 = 82.74. The LF = 14.7-7.9=6.8 with a load of 562lbs So 562/6.8= 82.65 The Rears = 14.5 - 8.4 = 6.1 with a load of 635 lbs So 645/6.1 = 104.1 If you run the above numbers from the written spec.'s given by Nissan - in the ProShocks calculator you listed - they come out pretty close... FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hello Alan: Great pictures - I can't imagine anyone that looks at the car not noticing that mess. Can you tell us more specifically what was different on the "Works" bodied cars vs the regular production bodies? thanks, Carl B. Clearwater, FL http://ZHome.com

Hi Mike (everyone) Every NEW long block I've seen sold by Nissan through the Parts Dept. of the local dealers, has been stamped with an engine serial number, but I've only see a few... I don't know if the bare blocks were stamped at the factory, my guess would be that they aren't. Nissan records and then uses "engine" serial numbers to identify engines in case some recall or service problem pops up related to them, which is usually limited to some specific production configuration that was produced between certain dates... which would related to a specific segment of the serial number "series". That would not normally be the case with a bare block. Re-stamping or altering the engine serial numbers is common in many big bucks cars... but the hard part is getting the exact font on the dies used.. For the most part the Z's haven't reached the level of pricing that would easily justify the effort required to re-stamp or alter a serial number on their blocks... but it could be a problem in the future... FWIW, Carl B.

Tell your mechanic to look just below the #6 spark plug, on the block itself, just below the aluminum head. There he should find two flat "Pads" cast into the side of the block. if he looks there - he can't miss them, as they stand out slightly from the rest of the block. If he wipes them clean, he should find that the first Pad is die stamped with "L24" and the second Pad is die stamped with the engine serial number. the number stamped into the block, should match the number stamped into the data tag in the engine compartment. If the Pads cast into the block have no numbers stamped into them - it could easily be a replacement block and hence not the original engine that was installed in the car when it was built. FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL http://ZHome.com

Let's not get ourselves confused.. the VIN won't match the engine number. The original engine serial number is stamped - not on the VIN Plate - but rather on a Data Plate under the hood (as Chris mentions above) - it's a shiny metal plate about 2"x 4" and the original engine serial number will start with "L24-"...... Your 73 240-Z would have a Date Of Manufacture (aka build date) of 07 or 08 of 1973. That information is stamped on another Data Plate that is affixed to the Drivers Door Jam. Now - go look more closely at the engine number stamped on the block... On the block there are two flat pad's cast into the block - the first one should be stamped "L24" Is it? The second one might be 182194 rather than the 082194 you reported... If the serial number stamped into the block is actually 182194 .. it might be the same number as is stamped into that Data Tag under the hood.. As that is in the range of the engine serial number sequence used in 07/08 of 1973... If the engine is actually stamped with L24 082194 it is most likely out of a Z built O2/03 of 1972. What is the serial number stamped into the Data Tag on your Z? FWIW, Carl