Carl Beck

Whoever sold you the car - used a spray can to paint over the floorboards. You can see the over-spray on the black vinyl, and it's the wrong color for a Series I Z... Maybe they thought it would look bettter with fresh paint - maybe they though it would stop some rust that they saw, and maybe they were just trying to hid the rust they saw. The only way to know is to remove the tar mat. Takes about a day the first time - takes a couple of hours after you have done it several times. Take a knife - and cut a line though that new green paint - and you will easily see that the paint is covering a black tar mat.. In other words, the green paint isn't on top of metal - rather it's on top of an old tar mat. You can remove the tar mat by using a heat gun to warm the tar mat - then use a putty knife to peel it off the floorboards. It takes a little practice to get the process just right -heat it too much and it melts to adhear better to the metal - heat it too little and it breaks off in brittle chunks -- - but heat it just the right amount and the putty knife will roll it off the metal floorboards. I agree with everyone - you have to remove the original tar mat to really see / inspect the floorboards. As for the small hole under the seat - that is usually (not always) the result of rust that formed where the frame rail was welded to the unibody. You have to get under the car and look more closely at that area. If you catch it soon enough, it's easy to metal patch it (ie. weld a small piece of metal in place of the rust that has been cut out). FWIW, Carl B.

Looks great Frank - now the next best thing to getting your car back from the body shop - is putting that first coat of wax on, and running the towel over that super smooth finish as you take the wax off... Just something satisfying about getting physical with the body on that car... when the towel glides so easily over the paint.... and you can see yourself reflected in a deep shine. That's when you really know it was worth the expense... FWIW, Carl B.

The blue interiors are pretty rare today. If the car is in the condition a 60K mile example should be - I'd sure keep it pure stock. Grab another higher mileage, more well used 240-Z body if you want to trick something out. (no reason not to do both). "Early Production" usually means cars built between Oct. 1969 and say Feb. 1970. Feb. of 71 would have been 16 months into the production of 240-Z's. Did you mean Feb. of 1970?? FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Dan: Must have been in a catalog before 1985... The 85 catalog shows only the larger 3 piece IMSA style rear spoiler (and lots of new stuff for the 280ZX's). The Front Spoiler as on your Z is shown - but off the car... By 85 the "GT Kit" from BSR was composed of fender flairs, front and rear spoilers and head light covers... (copy attached)... Seems I had earler BSR Catalogs around here somewhere, I bought a lot of stuff from them in the late 70's and early 80's - I'll keep looking. FWIW, Carl B.

I agree - that is the type of car I encourage people to step up to, and buy today. (given that it is as advertised). Always inspect cars like this in person and go over them with a fine tooth comb - if it's as good as the seller represents it to be - its most likely worth every penny of $12K today. (although I'd like to buy it at something closer to $10K, I wouldn't be afraid to pay the extra $2K if necessary). I'd call it a nice #3 Condition Car. A #2 Condition car would have all Cad. Plated parts in place, and all bright and shinny. No dents anywhere and the paint would be in far better shape. Remember that a #2 Condition car would win National Level Show Competitions if a #1 Condition car doesn't show up. A #1 and #2 Condition car, as originally defined by Kruse's Old Cars Price Guide, are very very close to the same... Take it home, take it apart and restore it - you'd have about two years of real fun - you'd put another $20K into it - and three years from now you'd have a high end #2 or done carefully enough a #1 car worth $35K to $45K. This would be a real "fun" restoration project because it would be such a pleasure to take apart... and these are the types of cars the body men actually love to work on... amazing condition... worth their best efforts. Or take it home, drive it on the weekends, enjoy it at club meets and local shows.. and three years from now you'll have an $16K to $18K example... Either way, if your looking for a Series 1 240-Z - this is the type of car you should be looking for... and willing to grab it when it comes along. There are still a few out there, but every year there are fewer and fewer that come on the market.. and they get ever more expensive... FWIW, Carl B. Old Cars Price Guide says: #1 EXCELLENT - Restored to current maximum professional standards of quality in every area, or perfect original with components operating and appearing as new. A 95+ point show car that is not driven. In national show judging a car in #1 condition is likely to win top honors in it's class. In a sense it has ceased to be an automobile and has become an object of art. It is transported to shows in an enclosed trailer, and, when not being shown it is stored in a climate controlled facility. It is not driven. There are very few #1 cars. #2 FINE: - Well-restored, or a combination of superior restoration and excellent original. Also an extremely well maintained original showing very minimal wear. Except for the very closest of inspection a #2 vehicle may appear as a #1. The #2 vehicle will take the top award in many judged shows, except when squared off against a #1 example in its own class. It may also be driven 800 - 1,000 miles each year to shows, on tours, and simply for pleasure. #3 - Very Good: Completely operable original or "older restoration" showing wear. Also, a good amateur restoration, all presentable and serviceable inside and out. Plus combinations of well-done restoration and good operable components; or a partially restored car with all parts necessary to complete it and/or valuable NOS parts. This is a 20 footer - that is, from 20 feet away it may look perfect. But as we approach it, we begin to notice that the paint may be getting a little thin in spots from frequent washing and polishing. Looking inside we might detect some wear on the drivers seat, foot pedals, and carpet. The chrome trim while still quite presentable, may have lost the sharp mirror like reflective quality it had when new. All systems and equipment on the car are in good operating order. In general, most of the vehicles seen at car shows are #3's..... #4 Good - A driveable vehicle needing no or only minor work to be functional. Also, a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. All components may need restoration to be excellent, the car is mostly usable "as is". This is a driver - It may be in the process of restoration or it owner may have big plans, but even from 20 feet away, there is no doubt that it needs a lot of help.. #5 Restorable - Needs complete restoration of body, chassis, and interior. May or may not be running, but isn't weathered, wrecked, and/or stripped to the point of being useful only for parts. This car needs everything. It may not be operable, but it is essentially all there and has only minor surface rust, if any rust at all. While presenting a real challenge to the restorer, it won;t have him doing a lot of chasing for missing parts. #6 Parts Car - May or may not be running, but is weathered, wrecked, and/or stripped to the point of being useful primarily for parts.

Hi Rick: I was going to say that: A) Any man that would marry a gal with three kids, then have twins too boot - deserves to lose his Z. and I find it somewhat "odd" that his wife seems to be selling the car.... She must be one super fine woman indeed. but then I decided to just comment on the car ;-) FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mike: I knew of the Bob Sharp GT-33s but really never found too much specific information about them. I had seen this one advertised for sale back in 2001. Very hard to place a value on the car. On the one hand it would be an interesting piece of "Bob Sharp" or "Bob Sharp Dealership" history, and most certainly a fun car to take to auto shows. Lots to talk about and show... Something that you won't see several of at any show.... On the other hand, to put it back in really "show" condition would take a bit of work and money even at this point. After which it might be hard to find a buyer willing to pay much of a premium price for a Dealer Special... If it was just a clean, rust free 280Z, with 78K miles - in the Northeast - it should sell for $6,500.00 to $7,500.00 today. How much more it's unique history is worth, will be up to the buyer and seller I would guess. FWIW, Carl B.

If this is the same car - it was advertised some time ago by the original owner at around $15K as I recall. Most likely sold for something less. A great buy at that price too... This is indeed a great #2 car - but a few things keep it too far out of the #1 category to command much more than $20K in todays market. ( If you paid that much for it, you'd still be getting a bargain, because you couldn't begin to restore a car to this condition today for less than twice that amount.) You'll note that the Cad and/or Zinc plated parts on the engine and in the engine compartment - have lost their original bright shinny "fresh" gold/yellow finish. That's the result of driving 19K miles rather than 9K. Note no pictures of the undercarriage... again 19K miles begins to show wear and surface rust etc... Being a 260Z also bumps it down a notch from the top price level cars. Being an A/T also hurts resale value a bit. Most Collectors hate the dealer installed body side moldings as well. Setting a $45K BIN simply shows that the seller wants the auction to run it's full course, and sets up the mental image in a prospective buyers mind that "maybe" it is worth that much. On the other hand most prospective buyers lose interest when the auction runs 21 Days... Buying most classics is done on an impulse... and 21 days gives prospective buyers too much time to think about it - and back off or out... Just my opinion... FWIW, Carl B.

Sitting on the floor, in cramped spaces... big 1/2" drive electric drill, with a 1" concrete bit. Needing to drill a hole though the wall of the house, to run a new gas line for the gas fireplace starter. Everyone knows that 25+ year old concrete blocks have finally reached their peak strength, and are therefore very hard to drill though. So I rented a BIG DRILL and bought new drill bits. I'm holding that big heavy drill and pushing on it for what seemed like an hour. My arms are getting tired and I'm cussing that dam block. With only a fraction of an inch of progress - I'm thinking that perhaps I should have started with a smaller bit to begin with... So I stand up, straighten myself out - and change the bit to something like 1/2"... Sit back down and start again. (the hole needs to be near the floor so not much room to work) In the mean time a friend had stopped over, and was standing there observing the effort and hard work... He could tell I was getting tired and my arms were getting weak... So he offers to give me a break, while he continues the drilling process. He sits down, and I hand him the drill - - he starts drilling the concrete block... then stops. Holds the drill up, pulls the trigger and looks at the drill bit... then at me... DAM!! #%$*&^#@!! I knew at once.... I was running the drill in reverse the whole time!! He hits the lever, puts the bit to the block - and in about four seconds the hole is though the 8" block. da....... Sometimes it pays to stop and take a serious look at what you are doing..... FIWW, Carl B.

My best picture of my favorite Z... The Metallic Blue 72 that I bought in Dec. of 71. The only car I've never wanted to part with, and the best Sports/GT I've ever owned. (on North Tampa Bay boat launch) FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Let us know how well they work... They look a bit large... Carl B.

Hi Frank: Usually that is because the "image size" of your picture - exceeds that allowed for the sight. Check to see that the image is no more than 1024 pixels wide if it's a .jpg formatted image.

These cars are now so old that standard rates for selected jobs really don't apply. (ie. flat rates). Most shops will charge time and materials... so depending on how experienced they are in doing that job, what condition all the bolts/studs/nuts are in, it might take two hours or it might take 12... With most shops charging between $85.00 and $125.00 per hour - -- I'd recommend taking the car to a shop that specializes in older Z's and asking them to look at it - then give you a written estimate. Carl B. .... or you could do it yourself....

Hi Guys: Thanks Will - your answers are right on the mark - sorry I didn't get back to this sooner. I'll add a little more to 26th-Z's comments re the Gold Medallion Award. The ZCCA's Gold Medallion Award is given to Z's judged by Z Knowledgeable Judges, at the Z Car Club Association's Annual Convention. The cars are judged to a known, and documented set of criteria that anyone can get a copy of. Once a Z is awarded the ZCCA's Gold Medallion it is no longer allowed to be entered into ZCCA Judged Car Shows for competition, and rather is put on "DISPLAY" at future shows. (this was intended to prevent three or four cars from winning First Place Trophies in the Stock Class year after year). If you buy a Gold Medallion Z - you have at least some confirmation by knowledgeable judges, that the car is as close to being a #1 Condition car as their judging criteria allow. There are however limits that have to be considered in this case. That being that the ZCCA Judging Criteria do not include judging anything under the car (unless that has been changed????). I'd have to agree with Chris - that right now it is the highest award given out to a Z Car. However in the future, as the Classic Z Cars are invited to ever more and more top level Concours Events around the Country - the prestige of having a Concours Winner from a Nationally Recognized Event may surpass the ZCCA's award. Many of us, myself included, feel that it's time to see DATSUN 240-Z's on display side by side with all other Classic Sports/GT's at the finest Concours Events in the Country .... Ferrari, Porsche, M/B, Shelby Cobra's, Aston Martin etc. From the perspective of Classic Beauty, Performance, and Driving Pleasure - the 240-Z is right up there with the rest. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Chris: Anyone Else?? Looked like a few cars made the first cut... Congratulations Bob !!... Carl B.

The camera must have been in Chet Wittle's Z - he won the ARRC that year. John and Chet were dookeing it out with the RX-7's the entire race. The two RX-7's were so concentrated on taking John out that they let Chet slip though at the end and win. I think John got so tired of the RX-7's running into him - he decided to just take them both out even if he didn't win. The first three photo's below show the damage on John's car - the last photo show's Chet's Z at Tech Inspection after winning the race. FWIW Carl B.

Any of the Factory Works Pro Rally 240-Z's($100K +) Any of the Fairlady Z 432's ($75K to $125K) Any of the Bob Sharp Championship Z's ($150K+) Any of the BRE Z's Brad Frissells' C-Production Championship Z(asking $275K -sold but not known what the final price was). Mr. K's personal Z I personally offered Mr. Mason $125K for the BRE #3 Z - He laughs and said; "we're having too much fun with it, and it would take a lot more than that to own it". In the Pure Stock realm: Several first generation Z's have sold for between $35K and $40K already, and I'd expect to see that become common in the next couple years. As we see the Pinnacle Examples selling for above $45K. Very low mileage, purely original examples, or professionally restored and in perfect condition, already changing hands in the $35K to $40K range. 69 Production Year examples 70 Model Year examples 71 Late Model Year examples 72 Model Year examples 78 Black Pearls FWIW, Carl B.

If you can't make up your mind as to what you want - then think future resale value... OEM Metallic Silver, Red, Lime Green, Persimmon....Resell the fastest and bring the most money... Of course if you change the original color - do a COMPLETE color change (inside/outside and under the hood).. FWIW, Carl B. you never know what the future will bring - but that doesn't mean you shouldn't prepare for it...

Come on guys.... that original Metallic Brown in 72 with the buckskin interior was beautiful. Equipped with Appliance Wire Mags, and bright yellow accents and pin-striping it was a knock-out!! Granted it didn't look too good 30+ years later.. all faded and weathered... Super rare color too... FWIW, Carl I was waiting for a Metallic Brown Z for 72 -but then I saw the Metallic Blue with the white interior...

The GM or ZX alternator will regulate itself to replace whatever current is being drawn from the starting battery, by whatever accessories you are using, at any given time. So the stock wiring should be fine in terms of powering the stock accessories. As I recall - the fusible link in the 240-Z is 90Amp. So as long as the total amperage drawn by all accessories at any given time is less than 90Amp - I wouldn't see a need to "upgrade" the stock wiring harness. It would however be sensible to add circuits independent of the OEM wiring harness - such as relaying the driving lights, huge amplifiers, and indeed adding the headlight relays etc. Additionally, a wire directly from the Alternator to the Starting Battery, so that the entire charging load isn't delivered through the stock wiring would make sense. Since both the GM and ZX alternators are internally regulated - you would be disconnecting the OEM external voltage regulator - so you would want to use one of Dave's plug in resistors.... to cap off the old voltage regulator. As I recall the ZX alternator is 65 Amp - where the OEM 240-Z alternator was 35/45 Amp... The ZX alternator is a direct bolt in, but you have to modify the lower alternator bracket to use the GM type. (you might also have to swap the V-Belt drive pulley). FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Andy: That statement might be a little too broad. There are Z's worth far more than $45K today. I'd expect to see a few pure stock first generation Z's hitting that mark in the near future as well. FWIW, Carl B.

What "this" are you talking about? The question ask was: "What makes a 73 z be worth this much money?" My answer was pretty specific to that question. FWIW, Carl B.

"going for $45,000"... NOT What you see is someone "offering to sell" his Z for $45,000. You will also note that there are NO Takers... A 73 Datsun 240-Z with less than 1K miles, perfectly preserved in the same condition it came off the Showroom Floor - - might bring $45K today. It would have to be 100% perfect.... FWIW, Carl B.

There are only four nuts that hold the seat studs and thus the seats to the seat mounting points in the floor - which holds the entire seat to the floor. All you have to do is take the four nuts off - along with any of the plastic spacers under the floor mounting points - off and lift the entire seat out... Once the seat is out of the car - it's easy to take the side braces that hold the seat back and seat bottom together.

Here is the best looking convertable Z I have seen to date. It was at the Motorsports Auto Show in 2001. I'm not sure why, but it looks about four inches wider than the average 240-Z.... FWIW, Carl B.