Carl Beck

George: No matter how long it took - it looks like a really great result. Certainly worth the effort, with something less than 3% of Datsun 240Z's being RHD and now in their 50th Year.. That is a rare and very desirable example. Finish it up and enjoy it, get it out for everyone to see. Today there are a couple of generations of people that have never seen one on the road.

You are correct, the VIN Series started at HLS30 46000 for the 1972 Model Year. - Good eye on the radiator core support. That "lip" wasn't added at the factory until around 12/72 to the 1973 Model Year 240Z's, although earlier 1973 240Z's Z's could have had it added at the Dealerships - as they tried to address the problems with the Flat Tops. It was bolted on at the dealerships - spot welded on at the factory. So it looks like the radiator core support was swapped out with a later Z.

This is the best way to fix the choke mount... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-72-73-Choke-Cable-Console-Fix-Repair-Plate-Mount-Tunnel-Bracket-Kit/401741430868?hash=item5d89a7c054:g:JIQAAOSwu4BVm1xA Where did you find a new heater core? thanks, Carl

You usually find Date of Manufacture stamped on Magnesium wheels - not so normal on aluminum. The vinegar has to be on the metal - not on any sealed or painted surface. Many magnesium wheels are sealed and painted...

Humm... I don't understand that - it is in my Factory Service Manual - Page BR-12 Caliper attaching bolt 7.3- 9.9 (53 to 71 ft.-lb) Then again on BR-27 Service Data & Specifications - Caliper to knuckle flange 7.3 - 9.9 kg-m (52.8 to 71.6 ft-lb)

Yes, they came with the car, along with a jack and lug wrench - all of which were stored in the tool storage bins. You should also have 4 standard lug nuts, to mount the steel wheel that the Spare Tire is mounted on.

Hello 718Miata: Wecome to the Z Car community. Take that Datsun 240Z out for a long drive and chances are good that you'll stay in the Z Car Community for a long time. I really can’t believe anyone would let that 240Z go for less than $25K. Does it have title problems?, Floors completely rusted out? Was previous owner high on drugs? Were there no Dealers at that Auction? This is the 50th Anniversary of the “Z Car”.. and 240Z’s are HOT in the market NOW. There is a discussion thread on the this forum seeking information about how/where to find 240Z’s for sale. Looking only at the “Beauty Shots” - and projecting them onto areas we can not see - - if the undercarriage looks as good… It’s easily a $25K to $30K+ sale on BringATrailer. Get it up on a lift and get clear pictures of the floorboards/framerails and entire suspension - and you’ll get a better evaluation of its current market value from the group here.

go to the XenonZcar.com site and download the Factory Service Manuals. http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html

Just an FYI - follow-up on Fusible Wire Lengths. The Rule of Thumb is that you use a Fusible Wire that is 4 gauges smaller than the wiring you want to protect. So if your wiring is 14GA you would use an 18GA Fusible Wire link. Fusible Wires Lengths are Color Coded. Good tips on Fusible Links on the AutoZone Web Page. Note the function of the insulation on them. https://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Circuit-Protection/Fusible-Link/_/P-0900c1528026a7fd

???????? did you thus eliminate the useable link? ie. re-created it vs replaced it ??

Great looking Z - so what happened to #15652?

I think the Green 70 is pretty far beyond “refreshed”. Full body rotisserie restoration with only a few items not exactly period correct. Yes, it is a 20 year old restoration.. but it must have been done fairly well as it has held up well. Relatively low VIN and matching numbers. It would be a reasonable buy at $65K today. Especially considering that any decent presentable Series I will fetch $20K+ needing a full refresh or restoration. The refreshed, non-matching number White 72 just sold for $40K with its original engine included in the sale. Agree that when you get to $100K - you have to have something very special. But they aren't being sent to auctions yet.

Master Vac Part Number was the same 69 up to 05/71. #8987 would have an 08/70 DOM. Not certain when the Decal Changed, but perhaps it has been discussed in another thread here at some point. Carl

I've never had anything waterjet blasted... so I don't know if that is a good thing or not. A good powder coat application is hard to beat.

Hi Tirnipgreen: The Gasoline Vapor Recovery System (GVRS) was required for cars manufactured in 1969 and early 70 only in California. Because California was a very large Sports Car Market most of the cars sent to North America get it as standard equipment. By late 1970 it was added to the Federal EPA Emissions Standards/Regulations. Yes, you can eliminate the entire system fairly easily. Here is a summary of much discussion. This shows how to make the 180 degree turn on the one remaining Vent Line - although another person just had that vent tube re-positioned when the gas tank was out. Either way works.. http://zhome.com/Racing/FuelTankVaporLineMod/FuelTankVaporMod.htm hope that helps, BTW - if you have the SU's I'd stick with them. If you go Webers - go triple side drafts. Carl B.

Yes - that one would have been far less - as it's not OEM and has different looking caps... but still somewhat the same function and over-all appearance

Yes - I thought the Ad was deceptive - that's why I mentioned it. OEM Original Equipment Manufacturer - simply means it was sourced from the OEM, but that doesn't mean the part is the date correct, original part. It is a "replacement part" - even Nissan will send you a newer style, or new and improved replacement for the original Part if the original is no longer available. If there actually is no problem caused by swapping the reservoirs - you are golden. If you have to re-bend the brake lines it is a PIA.. but doable.

Early on the L24’s suffered premature water pump failures with the 7 blade metal fans. Nissan redesigned the water pump castings to strengthen them. Still the metal fans were wearing out the water pump bushings, and in some cases coming loose from pump and damaging hoods and radiators. The 7 blade nylon fans reduce weight on the end of the water pump shaft increasing the useful life of the pump.(as well as protecting the radiator and hood) The first 8 blade nylon fans were incorporated to improve cooling, as one of many attempts to get the 1973 Emissions Carb’s working in a reliable manor. First an “air seal” was added to the radiator core support at the Dealerships, which sealed to the hood when closed.(inverted V shape metal with a rubber seal on top) It was intended to prevent the fan from drawing air over the top of the radiator. Early production 73 240Z’s were equipped with 15” - 8 blade nylon fans. Later the “air seals” on the radiator core support were put into production. The one’s put on at the Dealerships were bolted on - the “air seals” put on at the factory were spot welded on. Finally a larger diameter 15 3/8’s 8 blade nylon fan was installed as part of the V-3 Modification Kit. The part number for the 15 3/8’s inch fan 21060-N3310 for the V-3 Modificaiton Kit.

Just so there is no confusion... that is not the Original type installed at the factory on your 70 240Z. It can be made to work by rebinding/re-routing the brake lines - to hook them up to the correct ports. It cam be made to look right by swapping the reservoirs, but I do not know if any internal valving differences effect output line volumes or pressures.

Yes they can be clear coated and a few guys have done that. I chose not to go that route for fear of any clear coatings having problems with long term adhesion, clear coat cracking issues and or just physical damage. In which case it would have to be stripped off and I wasn’t sure that could be done without damage to the wheels. That decision was made however before I knew how many hours of constant polishing would be required to keep them “old school”… One friend solved the problem by having two complete sets of tires/wheels. For show he uses the original LeMans wheels - but after the show he puts them in "Space Bags” which are drawn down into a partial vacuum and stored. Replaced with aluminum racing wheels for actual road/track use and just storage of the car. Magnesium wheels polished to a high luster are really beautiful - they look like polished nickel. I have to admit that as much as I complain about the necessary time and effort - I do actually love seeing the results of that effort materialize before my eyes. So I guess the cost of beauty in this case is time and effort. I just think everyone should know going in - the cost of owning and maintaining 50 year old magnesium wheels is far more than their initial purchase price.

Yes, that is it. Years ago it was actually marketed/labeled through Gun Dealers etc as Gibbs Gun Oil.

As I recall it took three to four months for the patina to turn light gray, and another three to four to get dark Gray. That was before I started using the Gibbs Gun Oil, I believe that using it they will gray out faster. Keeping the centers uniform is a snap - just coat them with the Gibbs. It is keeping the outer lips shinny that is the PIA - they dull out if not polished every 4 months. Also you don't want to get any water on them as they water spot easily. Some guys used WD-40 on the lips after they were polished, to help avoid water spots. In my garage here in Florida - the aluminum Libre's will stay bright and shinny for a year, where the Le Mans will look dull within 3 to 4 months and utterly flat in 5 months.

It looked originally like the centers were painted - Yes/No? ... are you going to let them age to the dark gray, rather than paint them again? Looks like you bead blasted them...if so it will take a lot of very fine wet sanding, then a lot of polishing to get the rim lips gleaming again. Have Gibbs Gun Oil on hand? How about NuVite's NuShine IIC, NuShine IIA and NuShine IIS - absolutely the BEST for Mags's. 1/4lb jar is $25.00 and worth every penny.. C, A and S are progressively finer ... https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Default.asp

Logan Blackburn's Datsun 240Z with which he won the SCCA C-Production National Championship 1977, was the BRE #3 C-Production Z. Glad to hear you were able to find a set.

I don't believe that is correct. The earliest 280Z we have found is HLS30 200111 and it has a 12/74 DOM. The late 74 260Z's with VIN's Starting at RLS30 060001 and GRLS30 015001 shared the same body as the 280Z which started production in 12/74.