Carl Beck

Yes, that is it. Years ago it was actually marketed/labeled through Gun Dealers etc as Gibbs Gun Oil.

As I recall it took three to four months for the patina to turn light gray, and another three to four to get dark Gray. That was before I started using the Gibbs Gun Oil, I believe that using it they will gray out faster. Keeping the centers uniform is a snap - just coat them with the Gibbs. It is keeping the outer lips shinny that is the PIA - they dull out if not polished every 4 months. Also you don't want to get any water on them as they water spot easily. Some guys used WD-40 on the lips after they were polished, to help avoid water spots. In my garage here in Florida - the aluminum Libre's will stay bright and shinny for a year, where the Le Mans will look dull within 3 to 4 months and utterly flat in 5 months.

It looked originally like the centers were painted - Yes/No? ... are you going to let them age to the dark gray, rather than paint them again? Looks like you bead blasted them...if so it will take a lot of very fine wet sanding, then a lot of polishing to get the rim lips gleaming again. Have Gibbs Gun Oil on hand? How about NuVite's NuShine IIC, NuShine IIA and NuShine IIS - absolutely the BEST for Mags's. 1/4lb jar is $25.00 and worth every penny.. C, A and S are progressively finer ... https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Default.asp

Logan Blackburn's Datsun 240Z with which he won the SCCA C-Production National Championship 1977, was the BRE #3 C-Production Z. Glad to hear you were able to find a set.

I don't believe that is correct. The earliest 280Z we have found is HLS30 200111 and it has a 12/74 DOM. The late 74 260Z's with VIN's Starting at RLS30 060001 and GRLS30 015001 shared the same body as the 280Z which started production in 12/74.

Might be a good solution for some people. I really don't like dealing with cores and core charges via shipping out of State. Especially if the vendor puts subjective restrictions on the condition of the cores. You can get rebuilt calipers through most Local Major Auto Parts Stores and they aren't picky about the cores you return. New rubber brake lines were available though local NAPA dealers etc. I would check RockAuto as well for price and availability. I agree that rebuilding calipers yourself is not a difficult task, but too often I've run into pitted housings or scared pistons - and wound up spending more money and time than it was worth it. Secondly I wouldn't put steel drums on a Series I 240Z today. If your original aluminum finned drums are good I'd leave them original.

Last year I couldn't find any new, nor remanufactured 6/7" boosters for my 72 240Z ... the reman's at that time said they had no cores to work with. There were remanufactures that would rebuild yours - if you sent it to them though one of the Major Auto Parts Stores. I did not like that option, to easy to get lost on all the handling by different people. Oh yes, I hasten to add when I did find the right size boosters on line - I ordered them - when they arrived they were the wrong size (1973 size) - so had to return them. So I sent mine to Booster Dewey in Oregon. His web sight doesn't mention rebuilding 240Z booster - but I called him - and one of the guys that works there owns a 240Z, so they did them as well. I sent him my original and had it back about 7 days later. It wasn't cheap - AIR $165.00.- but I was happy with the turn around time and quality of work. Might want to give them a call if you can't find someone closer to you..1-503-238-8882, 4335 SE 63rd Ave. Portland, OR 97206 http://boosterdeweyexchange.com While you are at it and everything is apart - replace it or rebuild it now. (nothing lasts forever). fWIW, Carl B.

Of course you don't want to run any of that through your new radiator, nor heater core... Carl B.

Hi Kats: I guess that melting the ice with salt is a trade-off vs. having more cars wrecked and people hurt because of ice on the road. Nonetheless, your 432 looks perfect, and the protective coating is a great idea. Thanks for the video. Carl B.

Hi Kats: Did they use salt to melt ice on the highways and streets in Japan? Road Salts seem to be the real cause of extensive rust here in the State's. Seems a lot of 240Z's survived in Washington State for example - where they did not use Road Salt - and instead allowed winter tires with ice spikes back in the 60's/70's. Carl B.

Neat - thanks for sharing that - - what is the publication Name/Date?

After our discussion on the this forum some time ago - we decided the easiest / best way to eliminate the Gasoline Vapor Recovery System (GVRS) - was to use Nissan’s non-GVRS system. In which case line from the Vapor Liquid Separator in the rear is also eliminated. http://zhome.com/Racing/FuelTankVaporLineMod/FuelTankVaporMod.htm

A small amount of silicone adhesive will hold them in place.

Hi Lee: Great to have you here for this discussion. A further comment about our experience with gas pressure shocks several years ago. Front corner weights on the 240Z’s were 562 lbs and 604 lbs for 1972 as an example. (and varied a little 70/71). We measured the load it took to compress the Tokico Gas Pressure Shocks (non adjustable) at 80 psi. at a local machine shop. So it was easy to see that a 240Z with a spring constant of 83 lbs/in wound up sitting about 1” higher after installation. As for taking accurate and comparable measurements - a lot of the people involved are Engineers and pretty picky about accuracy. So lets hope your new offering are closer to the 3 Bar than the 5 Bar. At any rate better to know in advance of installation, so any necessary adjustments to spring rates or installed length can be made ahead of time.

also make sure the fuel line out and the return line in are not blocked.. that has happened to a more than a couple people.. with Red Coat or others restricting fuel flow. Lucky for us today - we can stick a camera almost anywhere in the tank. Tank looks fine for now - if you later decide you are going to do a full first class Refresh or even a Restoration it will easy enough to pull it back out later.

Well first its Running at the 1973 Baja 500 Off Road Races. Second it is a 620 which I think was one of the best styled 70’s Datsun Pickups. Third Mr. Conner (the driver there) was an independent advertising Promoter who brought SIMONIZ Corporation as a sponsor for the BRE Team and Datsun Competition efforts. (not to mention I was a New Car Sales Manager for a Datsun Dealer in 1973). The 68 Pick-up in the second picture was prepared by Brock Racing Enterprises (BRE) for Mary McGee & John Timanus. As part of the BRE 1968 Team effort at the Baja. BRE ran 3 Factory Supplied and Supported 510’s that year as well. One of which Mr. Brock owns today.

So far as we have found - with a couple of exceptions - the Datsun 240Z’s with VIN’s between HLS30 8944 and HLS30 9603 with DOM's of 08/70 - have been A/T equipped. The earliest reported was HLS30 07963 07/70.

Be careful to keep the same pistons in the same carb. body - they wear in differently.

It really did not depend on the Date of Sale. It depended upon the Selling Dealer who took the Manufacturers Statement of Origin (MSO) to the local DMV and filled out the paper work to request the first registration to create the first Vehicle Title. So we have lots of 240Z's registered as either 1970 or 1971 overlapping within 6 or more months.

The different positions could be either a spring rate difference - or a difference in Free Length. The corner weight could be 635 lbs on one side and 685 lbs on the other for example. So if the spring rate is the same, then you would use a slightly longer spring on the heavy side - so that both side would wind up with the same 'installed length". Most of the Factory Service Manuals give you the Spring Rate (constant), the Free Length and the Installed length.

The different colored paint dabs help identify the Spring Rates, as well as the position on the car. I don't have the information for the 280ZX, but as an example see: http://zhome.com/240ZSprings/EuroSpecSprings.htm

Hi Kyle - welcome to the group. No question in my mind - a 240Z can be daily driven and easily set up for the occasional Track Days and weekend Autocross. As far as being competitive in todays Sports Car racing …I think Greg Ira has done pretty well these past few years if you ever plan to go all out Racing. Best advice is take your time shopping, looking, shopping. Look for the cleanest, most rust free body you can find, that hasn’t been hacked up by some PO. I would expect to spend $20K to $25K today for really good 240Z. Pay the money up front for a good one - it is always the least expensive way to go. Everything mechanical on the 240Z’s is easy to fix. Add a set of good shocks, coil-overs, proper anti-sway bar or bars - great wheel/tires sets (one for street use, another for Track Days/Auto-X). A good engine and drive train… and the Z’s capabilities well far exceed your driving ability for several years. Plus you’ll have a really beautiful Classic to drive and enjoy every day.

1968 BRE Baja Team:

Or this one..

My Vote for a Truck - -